Perhaps my “ammonium solution”. (Dr Tim’s ammonium chloride in powder form), had gone weak overtime?!? It was made many months ago and only dosed as needed in the past seating in a closed container.
I’m dosing 20mls a day (on a dosing pump). That’s a lot on top of my feedings which is about 10 cubes a week btw 2 tanks but mainly the larger one gets the most and also dose powder forms of coral good time to time.
I know there is nitrate in the system but not enough to register atm. Increasing my feeding and dosing even more.
I will implement “heavy in less out” by no water changes. (I skipped this week)
My skimmer Havnt pulled anything out for months (on both tank). but I use it for aeration and co2 scrubber connected for co2 reduction.
My system runs on Rollermat as main and you can see why my nitrates are low. It’s love and hate relationship with the roller at but probably the reason I travel at ease because if it. I personally think it’s one of the best equipment for the hobby. But also made it easy and hard at the same time. Lol
Phosphate is going up 0.09.
Nitrate is still not registering. Increasing “manual dosing of NO3” on top of my current feed/dosing until I can get it to register
Alkalinity is stable.
Dang, there is a scorpion in the house. Didn’t know there were any in Georgia. X.x
Hrmm. I dunno about the powder, but in liquid form I know the Dr. Tim's is more likely to
concentrate over time. I got the tail end of a leftover large bottle from someone else, and when dosing 2mL - which in my ~60 gallon system should bring me right on or a shade under 2ppm - I hit
8ppm! Thankfully I already had another bottle on the way and I hit the levels expected when using it. If the powder you're using wasn't stored well, it could have sucked up some water, maybe? Only way to be 100% sure is mix in the correct amount to an amount of RO/DI water (like one or maybe 5 gallons, whatever the minimum amount you can easily measure is) and test.
Chances are though all those corals are just sucking it out faster than the system can naturally produce it. But watch that phosphate tho - I wouldn't let it go much over 0.5.
Problem
could be the size of your bacterial colony and it only being just big enough for the load you have in the tank... which might not be all that big, especially compared to when we're cycling: when cycling, we want to dose up to 2ppm and see it clear within 24 hours or less, which will generate a fair amount of NO3... BUT! You don't want to raise ammonia to 2ppm in a system with livestock in it. Heck, anything at or over 0.5ppm stands a good chance of nuking your pod population, which is BAD, especially as pods may graze on
some dinos and help keep them under control while other efforts go to work. Otherwise, you're just not going to be able to safely dose enough ammonia at once to boost your bacterial colony large enough to produce enough NO3 to overcome what your corals are consuming.
Instead, "over" feeding your livestock more heavily is almost always the better path here anyway. Yes, it's slower than ammonia dosing, but it’s safer, it builds up your pod and microfauna populations, and it naturally supports the food web your tank will rely on long term. Pods thrive on leftover food and help recycle it into a healthier nutrient base that stays in circulation longer. Also gives you better nitrate-to-phosphate ratio tuning than just dumping ammonia and hoping for the best.
Honestly, I'd turn the roller off, maybe switch back to filter socks for a time if you can - or just run no filter media at all for a while. Roller mats are known for aggressively stripping out organics
before they can break down into usable nitrogen and phosphorus, and if your NO3 is struggling to register despite heavy feeding and ammonium dosing, that roller may be a big part of why. I get wanting it for travel peace-of-mind, but outside those occasions, it's probably doing more harm than good right now.
And yeah, I'd turn off the skimmer too - you don't appear to be
struggling to keep pH up, and unless you're regularly packing several people in the room or have a couple large dogs and poor air circulation, it's probably hurting more than helping even if it isn't collecting anything. Way easier to boost pH if you
do need to later, than fight the roller and skimmer actively working against you right now. You're just plain over-filtering for the load you're actually generating on the tanks vs. what the livestock need and are using. There's a strong argument to be made here for running a fuge with a macro in it, allowing the macro to grow to size, and then allowing it to die off and breakdown back into the tank naturally (instead of regularly removing large chunks and just throwing it out), where it will slowly return some of the nutrient it has taken up, like they do in the Triton method.
Finally, I'd recommend a test for dissolved organic carbon (DOC) or just a temporary stop to carbon dosing (if applicable), since excessive carbon combined with bottomed-out N and P can create conditions that fuel dinos.