Access to a Laser Cutter?
- Thread starter redc
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If you need access to specialized equipment you might want to look at ‘maker spaces.’ You can pay a monthly fee to access tools you wouldn’t normally have access too. Also a lot of them have classes so you can properly learn how to properly use machines like cnc machine. They are all over atlanta so if you live in the metro area there should be one near you.
Unless is an acrylic 40B, it would be easier, cheaper and more practical to use glass. Acrylic doesn't bond well with glass in my experience. You can get sheets and glass cutter at a local hardware store.
BSmith
New Member
Ah, the good ol' DIY journey 
I'll share my experience with ya.
I've been down this road many times as well, like @simonhill55 mentioned, acrylic won't adhere to glass with silicone very well. I'm not entirely versed with the variables which affect curing, but I assure you if you happen to get a "descent" bond between acrylic, glass, and silicone, it will have a limited lifespan regarding strength. You might get 6 months, you might get 2 yrs, but it will always fail.
I've bought many pieces of tempered glass with beveled edges to make baffles, from Dixie Glass Hoppers in Decatur over the years. They're good people. This makes a rockstar DIY sump with a 40 gal breeder or 30 gallon extra high (they're made by Deep Blue Professional aquariums.). The guys at Premier Aquatic up in Marietta can order them for you. If you need to drill the tank, for using an external return pump, buy a Drilax diamond hole saw kit and a Drilax hole saw jig, off of Amazon. TRUST ME, you will want to use these tools to drill if you don't want to blow through a bunch of tanks and cuss for a few hours
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00V3UONCW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
If you want to DIY your own sump from acrylic, I've found it much easier to work with cast rather than extruded. It is more expensive but worth it in my opinion. I started with a table saw and a 40 tooth blade. I upgraded to a fine 80 tooth blade but didn't see any improvement in the cut. The 80 tooth does better on soft plastics like polyethylene. You can also flame polish the edges to make them easier to bond, but it's really tricky with propane, you can burn the edges SUPER easily. You're better off with high grit sandpaper to polish the edges before you bond them with solvent. Flame polishing uses a much lower temperature and you'll have to buy hydrogen and oxygen cylinders from Airgas or others to run it.
I then upgraded to a CNC machine, the X-Carve made by Inventables and the V-Carve software by Vectric. This made BEAUTIFUL cuts, after some trial and error with the end mill, spindle speed and feed rate. It's still a pain in the rear to set the machine up and make all the cuts, you won't save any time, but if you enjoy spending a weekend on it, it will look nice.
Laser cutter is the ultimate, I just bought a BOSS laser but have not yet got it set up for cutting acrylic like I'd like, will take more experimentation.
The long and short of it is, if you're wanting to save money, honestly just save up and buy a pre-fabricated sump. It will last a long time and will look nice. Trigger Systems makes gorgeous equipment. If you enjoy the DIY experience with mixed results and have weekends to burn, go for it!
I'll share my experience with ya.I've been down this road many times as well, like @simonhill55 mentioned, acrylic won't adhere to glass with silicone very well. I'm not entirely versed with the variables which affect curing, but I assure you if you happen to get a "descent" bond between acrylic, glass, and silicone, it will have a limited lifespan regarding strength. You might get 6 months, you might get 2 yrs, but it will always fail.
I've bought many pieces of tempered glass with beveled edges to make baffles, from Dixie Glass Hoppers in Decatur over the years. They're good people. This makes a rockstar DIY sump with a 40 gal breeder or 30 gallon extra high (they're made by Deep Blue Professional aquariums.). The guys at Premier Aquatic up in Marietta can order them for you. If you need to drill the tank, for using an external return pump, buy a Drilax diamond hole saw kit and a Drilax hole saw jig, off of Amazon. TRUST ME, you will want to use these tools to drill if you don't want to blow through a bunch of tanks and cuss for a few hours
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00V3UONCW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1If you want to DIY your own sump from acrylic, I've found it much easier to work with cast rather than extruded. It is more expensive but worth it in my opinion. I started with a table saw and a 40 tooth blade. I upgraded to a fine 80 tooth blade but didn't see any improvement in the cut. The 80 tooth does better on soft plastics like polyethylene. You can also flame polish the edges to make them easier to bond, but it's really tricky with propane, you can burn the edges SUPER easily. You're better off with high grit sandpaper to polish the edges before you bond them with solvent. Flame polishing uses a much lower temperature and you'll have to buy hydrogen and oxygen cylinders from Airgas or others to run it.
I then upgraded to a CNC machine, the X-Carve made by Inventables and the V-Carve software by Vectric. This made BEAUTIFUL cuts, after some trial and error with the end mill, spindle speed and feed rate. It's still a pain in the rear to set the machine up and make all the cuts, you won't save any time, but if you enjoy spending a weekend on it, it will look nice.
Laser cutter is the ultimate, I just bought a BOSS laser but have not yet got it set up for cutting acrylic like I'd like, will take more experimentation.
The long and short of it is, if you're wanting to save money, honestly just save up and buy a pre-fabricated sump. It will last a long time and will look nice. Trigger Systems makes gorgeous equipment. If you enjoy the DIY experience with mixed results and have weekends to burn, go for it!
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Bsmith is not entirely accurate. Not necessarily wrong, just not really the best information
You can absolutely use acrylic in a glass 40 breeder sump. No the silicone will not "adhere" to the acrylic but it will stick to it good enough to to last for years and years. The key is how you silicone it and using thick enough pieces so they do not warp with the water tension.. If you cut the acrylic just slightly smaller then the inside diameter of the tank you can actually Force silicone in between the pieces of acrylic and tank. As seen in the photos. Pm me. I dont mind helping.
Chris c
You can absolutely use acrylic in a glass 40 breeder sump. No the silicone will not "adhere" to the acrylic but it will stick to it good enough to to last for years and years. The key is how you silicone it and using thick enough pieces so they do not warp with the water tension.. If you cut the acrylic just slightly smaller then the inside diameter of the tank you can actually Force silicone in between the pieces of acrylic and tank. As seen in the photos. Pm me. I dont mind helping.
Chris c
BSmith
New Member
Hmm, define “best” information? Can you silicone acrylic to glass? Sure! If longevity and aesthetics aren’t part of your criteria, go for it. If you’re on a tight budget and don’t care about how the end result looks, by all means go for it. The best information in the DIY space is largely opinion & experience based.
Anyhoo, @redc if you take a stab at acrylic and don’t like how it performs or looks, I’ve got about four pieces of cut & beveled tempered glass you can have if you want ‘em. They were sized for two DIY sumps for 20 gallon high tanks as well as four pieces of tempered glass salvaged from an old fireplace glass door cover. Will bring them to the reef swap sale this coming Saturday or anyone else that’s wants them. You can take them to any glass shop for cutting or ask for Chip at Alpha Glass & Mirror, great guy and has cut glass for me in the past, as well as.
Anyhoo, @redc if you take a stab at acrylic and don’t like how it performs or looks, I’ve got about four pieces of cut & beveled tempered glass you can have if you want ‘em. They were sized for two DIY sumps for 20 gallon high tanks as well as four pieces of tempered glass salvaged from an old fireplace glass door cover. Will bring them to the reef swap sale this coming Saturday or anyone else that’s wants them. You can take them to any glass shop for cutting or ask for Chip at Alpha Glass & Mirror, great guy and has cut glass for me in the past, as well as.
Tempered glass can't be cut so your tempered glass salvaged from an old fireplace glass door cover likely won't be usable unless it is the correct size already. And I know a member who has been successfully building AIOs with acrylic in glass tanks for many years.
I’m that person, yes you can silicone acrylic to glass with very nice results and good longevity. I have had small and large tanks with an acrylic panel/false wall for up to 10 years with no issues. Aquarium silicone can work fine but for extra holding power use a silicone adhesive.
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When my sump was actually clean it looked great. Clean silicone lines make a big difference.Just taking the time to square everything is big as well. As with any diy project, draw a picture first. I actually will draw on the tank itself with a marker where i want stuff. Sometimes things do not work out and have to be changed. What works for one, might not work for another, doesnt mean it is wrong or aesthetically unpleasing though. Happy reefing .
Chris c
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Chris c
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Following along to see if anyone has a laser cutter.
But as far as the acrylic to glass thing. Silicon will work fine it just wont "adhere" to the acrylic. I would recommend using something like GOOP (plumbers or household are reef safe) It will adhere to pretty much anything.
Oh and for clean silicon lines, spray the area with soapy water and use your finger or a Popsicle stick. The soapy water keeps it from sticking to everything. You can also use tape to get straight lines.
But as far as the acrylic to glass thing. Silicon will work fine it just wont "adhere" to the acrylic. I would recommend using something like GOOP (plumbers or household are reef safe) It will adhere to pretty much anything.
Oh and for clean silicon lines, spray the area with soapy water and use your finger or a Popsicle stick. The soapy water keeps it from sticking to everything. You can also use tape to get straight lines.
I’m really not sure why everyone is giving silicon such a bad name here when it comes to adhering acrylic to glass. Silicone adhesive sticks to acrylic as well as it does to glass, regular aquarium silicone sealant does not stick as well to acrylic but it does work. If you look at any of the all in one tanks made professionally or by the do it yourselfers, they’re all using silicone to seal and a false wall which is usually made out of acrylic or plastic. I’ll reference any of the bio cubes, nano cubes, and many more.
On a side note,5 I would not recommend using soapy water when applying silicone within an aquarium environment, use blue painters tape where you want to have nice straight lines.
On a side note,5 I would not recommend using soapy water when applying silicone within an aquarium environment, use blue painters tape where you want to have nice straight lines.
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I hit the edges of Acrylic with 80 grit sand paper the last time I did one. I used regular GE #1 silicone too. Held great to glass.
Funny thing, the one seal that is failing on my 120 sump is on a glass weir. The acrylic parts of the bubble trap are still holding strong 5yrs and a move later.
The Marineland Cornerflo tanks are all siliconed in using black.
Funny thing, the one seal that is failing on my 120 sump is on a glass weir. The acrylic parts of the bubble trap are still holding strong 5yrs and a move later.
The Marineland Cornerflo tanks are all siliconed in using black.
