Acroholic's Algae Turf Filter Build

acroholic

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Hi guys,
I got interested in these as yet another way to export nutrients from my 210/100 gallon reef system. My current setup is pretty nutrient poor, but even now I find some cyano here and there. I've treated with chemicals once, and while OK, I always prefer a natural method. I have also recently added some fish to the system, so I am feeding more than usual.

I have seen these on the web at several reef websites touted as the end of the need of Protein Skimmers, GAC, GFO, and waterchanges, and I have also seen them called dismal failures. As with most of these things, the truth is probably somewhere in the middle.

For anyone interested, here are a couple links to current and older information on them, and a couple Reef Website links as well. One of them is a huge long 76 page thread, which I would advise you read the first few pages and the last few.

This methodology is currently being used in Florida as a means of removing pollution from a river. All these four links are connected to Dr Walter Aday's work on Algal Turf Scrubbers in the 1970s:

http://www.algalturfscrubber.com/about.htm">http://www.algalturfscrubber.com/about.htm</a>

[IMG]http://www.hydromentia.com/">http://www.hydromentia.com/</a>

[IMG]http://www.algalturfscrubber.com/biomass.htm">http://www.algalturfscrubber.com/biomass.htm</a>

[IMG]http://www.algalturfscrubber.com/">http://www.algalturfscrubber.com/</a>

Reef Website links:

[IMG]http://www.reefsanctuary.com/forums/general-reef-aquarium-discussion/35294-mega-powerful-nitrate-phosphate-remover-replaces-skimmer-refugium-everything.html">http://www.reefsanctuary.com/forums/general-reef-aquarium-discussion/35294-mega-powerful-nitrate-phosphate-remover-replaces-skimmer-refugium-everything.html</a>

This link from Smoothie:

[IMG]http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1675316&highlight=algae+scrubber">http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1675316&highlight=algae+scrubber</a>

And finally, here is a Forum dedicated to algae scrubbers:

[IMG]http://www.algaescrubber.net/forums/">http://www.algaescrubber.net/forums/</a>

Just to clarify my position on this thread. I am not a proponent or opponent of the use of algae turf filters. I am simply curious about them and wanted to find out for myself if there are any effects, positive or negative, to their use. I am also in the mood to build something, so I get two birds with one stone. This thread is meant to document how I made mine, based on my research of many different models and what would fit my setup best.

Pics to follow.
Dave
 
The Theory for use of an algae turf filter in a reef tank.

I'm going to try to summarize what I understand from the reading I have done on the subject. Algae turf filters are meant to export primarily phosphates and nitrates from an aquarium system. Please realize I do not stand on these as fact, this is what I have read.

The algae turf filter uses a flat plastic grid type material in a wet and dry type setup. The grid is usually either in a vertical or an angled position. There are also designs that use the grid in a floating horizontal position. Water is continually passed over the grid while it is exposed to air, and is not submerged in tank water.

The grid(s) are lighted for generally 10-12 hours a day, with many using these in an RDP situation, meaning they are lighted when the tank lights are off, in a Reverse Daylight Photosynthesis setup.

The algae that usually starts colonizing the Grids is usually brown algae, which is succeeded by hair algae, and then ultimately by turf algae. The turf algae supposedly is the most efficient at pulling nitrates and phosphates out of the water.

If an Algae Turf Filter is successful, I think the ultimate end is to move algae production from the display tank to the Turf Filter due to the Turf Algae outcompeting the other types of algae.

Cyano is suppose to be one of the last algaes to disappear with the successful use of an Algae Turf filter.
 
Picture time:

This is what I am going to house the ATF in. This is an acrylic container by SeaLife Systems I bought at Creation Reef and Aquatics. It is a nice little box they sell for use as a nano tank, mini-sump, or refugium. This type container is by no means necessary, but I am kind of anal in that I like things to look nice, and this fits the bill nicely as a container for my design. You could just as easily use a Rubbermaid container or whatever you wish.

Total cost for an ATF using a cheaper container should be no more than $50 tops. Total cost of mine with the Sealife Systems acrylic container was about $130.

Pic 1 is a pic of all the materials I will use in the construction of the filter.

Pic 2 is a close up of the SeaLife Systems Cube (L16" x W14" x H16").

Pic 3 is of the small divider plastic strip I glued with Weldon-16 down the middle ofthe cube front to back. This serves to keep the glass support pieces for the Algae mats in place.

Pic 4 shows the glass pieces as they will sit in the cube. I chose to use glass as support for the algae mats because unless I went with a very thick acrylic, acrylic pieces would have eventually bowed.

Pic 5 shows the plastic mesh I will use for the Aglae mats. This is a needlpoint mesh from Michael's Crafts. It is very close to the dimensions of the algae mats used by Dr. Adey in his research. Before starting the filter, I will rough up the plastic mesh with coarse sandpaper to give the algae something to hold onto when it starts colonizing the mats.

Pic 6 is a top-down view of the filter.

Next post will contain the PVC system I built to carry water down the algae grids.
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au01st;465606 wrote: Wonder if you could use one of those eBay LED fixtures for lighting?

I have seen these set up to use simple clamp lamps, so as long as the intensity is there, you'd probably be OK. I think 5500-6700K is best for alage, it being a plant and all.

I have three types of lighting laying around that I can use: T5, halide, or PC. Haven't decided yet, but I am leaning towards a Coralife 96 watt 6700K quad tube fixture I have had for a few years. Used it with a planted tank I had set up.
 
Something like this, says 7000k. Wonder how it'd hold up to any water?

http://cgi.ebay.com/White-5mm-LED-Aquarium-Grow-Light-Panel-12-14w-total_W0QQitemZ330401523155QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item4ced7725d3">http://cgi.ebay.com/White-5mm-LED-Aquarium-Grow-Light-Panel-12-14w-total_W0QQitemZ330401523155QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item4ced7725d3</a>

[IMG]http://images.channeladvisor.com/Sell/SSProfiles/33000608/Images/1/MIX-LEDPNL14.01.WHT__1.jpg alt="" />
 
This is how I will get water to cascade down over the algae mats.

Pic 1. This is the PCV ball valve/union system that will allow each algae mat to be removed without interfering with flow to the other one. This will also allow flow regulation so each met is getting even flow.

Pic 2. This is the pvc pipe that attaches to the union. I dremeled out a slit the length of the pipe and endcap. The water coming from the tank flows out this slit and down the algae mat.

Pic 3. I attached zip ties to the top of one edge of the algae mats. These keep the mat in place when you slide it into the slit pipe in Pic 2.

Pic 4. Finished arms with algae mats attached. The unions allow easy on/off for alternate weekly scraping to harvest algae.

Pic 5. Finished basic structure of the Algae Turf Filter. I will install a 1" bulkhead with strainer screen on the bottom of the Acrylic Box, and the supply line goes to the barbed fitting coming out the back of the PVC asssembly. There should never be more than 1/2"-3/4" of standing water in the algae filter at any time.

Pic 6. Top down shot.
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Smoothie;465815 wrote: Coming along nicely! How are you doing the drain/return for it?

I'm going to install a 1" bulkhead with strainer on the bottom of the cube. I already have the feed line and return lines plumbed (from a previous tank). I figure there should never be more than 1/2"-3/4" standing water on the bottom of the tank.

I'll probably put the bulkhead in the bottom back corner like I was setting it up for an overflow. I could then use it for that and install an overflow in the future if I decide to so something else with the tank, like make it a small reef.
 
Acroholic;465818 wrote: I'm going to install a 1" bulkhead with strainer on the bottom of the cube. I already have the feed line and return lies plumbed (from a previous tank). I figure there should never be more than 1/2"-3/4" standing water on the bottom of the tank.

I'll probably put the bulkhead in the bottom back corner like I was setting it up for an overflow. I could then use it for that and install an overflow in the future if I decide to so something else with the tank, like make it a small reef.
Or a small species tank. Small mantis, harlequin shrimp or maybe a frag healing tank. I have had too much coffee.
Hope it works though. Possibilities are endless
 
Tagging along to see the build and results. Good Luck Dave!
 
OK guys, got the final asembly and plumbing done for the water movement part of the Algae Turf filter. Pic one is a side shot. Pic 2 is a front shot. I installed a 1" bulkead in the bottom back left corner of the tank. The tank drains into another drain line that returns water to the sump. Like I guessed, there is a constant 1/2"-3/4" of standing water in the tank. The twin algae mats have pretty even flow.

I rebuilt the ball valve assembly tonight because I saw I could reduce the # of 90 degree bends I had, so there is a bit more flow to the filter now.

Next step: lighting for the Algae Turf Filter.
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Sweet. Its coming along great. Cant wait to see results. Great pics as well
 
Kirru;466734 wrote: Sweet. Its coming along great. Cant wait to see results. Great pics as well

I'm trying to decide what type of lighting to use. I may try a Coralife 96 watt 6700K Quad Tube CF I have first. I would think it would be fine for this application. It will be no more than 12 inches from any area of the algae mats.

My goal with lighting is to provide enough, but not overkill.
 
Yea, I agree, a CF would be fine for this and iirc I read somewhere that is the better Kelvin rating to have to grow algae.
 
I'm really curious to follow this thread, Acro - I started on one of these after reading at RC, but abandoned due to space. I don't have a "fish room", so anything I can't fit in the stand or tank doesn't get done. I used the screens, scrubbed them with sandpaper, cut a pipe very much like what you have done. I stopped after mounting & noise became a concern. I'll be jealous when you get your turf filter going. :)

I have had excellent results with a fuge and and RDSB. In my 33 (probably overstocked) reef, I consistently have 0 (less than my test kit resolution) nitrates and phosphates.

FWIW, since you're talking about lighting, I have had awesome results with the "Daylight" compact florescents (floods with reflectors build int) from Home Depot, on an 18 on, 6 off schedule opposite the display. Got the idea from Melevs Reef. In all my refugiums, the chaeto practically forms bricks in the sump, it grows so fast. I tried several forms of lighting (t5, cheap florescents) before I settled on the Compact Florescent Floods. They give GREAT results with minimal expenditure. I've had all sorts of algae growing under them - hair, chaeto, red seaweed, bubble, even xenia! ;)
 
Smoothie;466736 wrote: Are you gonna seed it from your overflows or just go O NATURAL?

Probably just let it form on it's own. Actually, I don't have ANY hair algae in my overflows because all my overflows have covers on them, which keeps it dark inside, so no algae grows.
 
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