Actinics with metalhalides?

Jdadams

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I have a 14k 150w metalhalide and was wondering if the addition of powercompact actinics To Go on each side of the metal halide to add alittle more blue. will it bring out more of the colors of my corals?
 
I used to run a PC actinic with some Metal halides and noticed a difference. I now run T5 actinics with metal halides and really can tell the difference.
 
dawgdude;566948 wrote: PCs wont make any visual difference with the halide on. They are just not powerful enough to make any difference. The best bet is to look into some LED actinics like the ecoxotic or even DIY a set.

Gotta disagree with you, Charlie, which is rare. I've got two 24" actinic PCs on either side of my 70w metal halides, and they make a big difference. I think two PCs running the length of the tank will make a good difference. I'd even say trying a 10000k bulb on the halide and see if you can get some better growth.
 
cowfish;566941 wrote: I have a 14k 150w metalhalide and was wondering if the addition of powercompact actinics To Go on each side of the metal halide to add alittle more blue. will it bring out more of the colors of my corals?
No way to answer that accurately with out first knowing how many pc watts total you plan on using and the type of reflectors for the pcs
 
Why not just go to a higher Kelvin (bluer color) rating on the Halide bulb? If 14 K is not blue enough, then try a Radium 150 DE bulb. They are 20 K and are great bulbs. I use Radium 250 and 400 watt bulbs (all Radiums are 20K) and don't need any blue supplementation. That would be cheaper than buying PCs.
Dave
 
Acroholic;567039 wrote: Why not just go to a higher Kelvin (bluer color) rating on the Halide bulb? If 14 K is not blue enough, then try a Radium 150 DE bulb. They are 20 K and are great bulbs. I use Radium 250 and 400 watt bulbs (all Radiums are 20K) and don't need any blue supplementation. That would be cheaper than buying PCs.
Dave


exactly!

I've used 150 watt Radiums, and now have 400 watt radiums. done.
 
I agree with Acroholic- just find a bluer bulb. I tend to dislike multiple lighting configurations just because it adds cont and complexity unnecessarily. Just get a bluer bulb and be done with it!
 
It makes a big difference in my tank. I got a 120g display and I run (2) 150w MH and I have (2) PC along with (3) blue ecoxotic LED's with 12 bulb or each strip and my tank looks super bright but at the same time it gives it a really good hint of blue. So all my coral's color stands out pretty well. But then again my MH bulbs are 20k radium.
 
Ok. I looked at some 20k bulbs and that seems to be the best way to go and will cut down on cost. I want something more blue to bring the corals colors out more. Because when I get corals at the fish store the corals will have more hints of purple or blue in them and in my tank the colors are barely even noticable with the 14k Bulb.
 
I gotta ask a ? here. If you use a 14k or even as low as 6500 k which in most cases would produce more par that said would adding actinic supplementation void out the par rating since that spectrum is still there? In other words could you not obtain the the blue you like without sacrificing the benefits of a lower k bulb.
 
I thought that was the whole reason for actinic supplementation? To use a lower kelvin bulb for PAR, but still achieve the appearance of 14-20k...
 
weaglereefer;567363 wrote: I thought that was the whole reason for actinic supplementation? To use a lower kelvin bulb for PAR, but still achieve the appearance of 14-20k...

ME TOO.:yes: That and staging dusk to dawn. I have to agree with Dawgdude and at least look at led for actinic supplementation
 
I picked up some anodized LED mounts that slide into the rails of the Sunpod fixture. I run them along with the MH and a couple of hours before and after. They turned out real nice but were a custom job. EvilC made them and there was talk that Nano Customs was going to produce them however I haven't seen anything yet.
 
I have 250W DE overdriven with magnetic ballasts running 14K Phoenix bulbs and you can't tell when 2 rows or T5 HO Actincs are on or off. Makes very little difference on my setup.

I wouldn't run it any other way, however. I love the blue period at dusk and dawn.
 
So what if you put the actinics on a timer setup so they turn off when the halides are on and come on again when the halides go off, for an hour each.
 
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