Apex DIY ATO complete with float switches

Ahhh, I see your question... I drilled a hole in the cap and threaded it and screwed the threaded part of the float into the cap. The floats I used came with a washer that seals the hole...
 
so, you sort of had the float upside down?

Edit: Hmmmm.. if you drilled a hole in the cap and screwed in the float, then wouldn't that block the water from coming through? I thought the holes in cap was to let the water in?

Edit: Hmmm.....Did you mean that you drilled a hole in cap which went INSIDE the end of the 1" PVC pipe? I didn't notice that but that's an excellent idea?
 
shafiq.hossain;714376 wrote: so, you sort of had the float upside down?

Edit: Hmmmm.. if you drilled a hole in the cap and screwed in the float, then wouldn't that block the water from coming through? I thought the holes in cap was to let the water in?

Edit: Hmmm.....Did you mean that you drilled a hole in cap which went INSIDE the end of the 1" PVC pipe? I didn't notice that but that's an excellent idea?

No, the float is not mounted upside down, it is mounted as typical float switches are. Take a look at the second picture. You can see the caps with the threaded holes. Thread the wire through the holes and out the top of the 1/2" PVC pipe. Screw the threads on the float into the threads in the cap. There should not be any water in the pipe, the pipe is used to keep the wires dry. See the last picture I posted for you a few posts ago, you can see the float wires coming out of the top of the pipe...

jesse'sgirl;714417 wrote: great thread and great meeting you today

Great meeting you too Erin! Good luck with your new direction!
 
Sweet, I started hooking mine up last night and this will certainly help!
 
Got it! I've been thinking all along that the floats were inside the cap or pipe. Thanks for the clarification. I didn't notice that when I first glanced at the picture.
 
Did you have to flip any of the floats to change open or closed position?
 
shafiq.hossain;714616 wrote: Got it! I've been thinking all along that the floats were inside the cap or pipe. Thanks for the clarification. I didn't notice that when I first glanced at the picture.

Excellent!

RedStang;714623 wrote: Did you have to flip any of the floats to change open or closed position?


Yes, to use the programming as it is written, the Sump2Full needs to be flipped (you want the circuit OPEN when the float is up) and the Sump_Fill should be flipped (you want this one open when the float is up too). I think I didn't word this correctly in my original instructions.
 
Okay, I got everything hooked up. Floats hooked up to PVC end caps. Wires connected to apex breakout box. And breakout box connected to PM2. Just going through preliminary checks on my apex before putting it to full use. I first wanted to find out if apex would recognize the float status. I had at least one float submerged and the other above the water level. I typed in the following command under the email outlet:

If Switch1 OPEN Then ON
If Switch1 CLOSED Then ON

I received an email indicating that Switch1 was OPEN. This was the submerged float. I then proceeded to modify the coding as follows:
If Switch2 OPEN Then ON
If Switch2 CLOSED Then ON
I received an email indicating that Switch2 was OPEN. This was the float hanging above the water level. So, I'm confused. I would have expected at least one of them to be CLOSED. Any ideas?

Thanks....
 
Switch1 refers to the inputs on the base module, not the PM2 to which you have them connected. Check the manual to see how to correctly address switch inputs on an expansion module. Once I get back home, I can post it for you.
 
You need to use the following syntax to refer to a switch input on any expansion module:

If Switchx10_4 CLOSED Then OFF

Replace 10 with the Aquabus ID of your PM2
Peplace 4 with the input number.
 
Thanks. That did provide me with some direction. I followed your suggestion but it did not work either, somewhat. At least, I was able to confirm that it was reading the contact but incorrectly in most cases. I got to thinking that maybe PM2 was unable to provide enough current. I plugged the BB to the main box and fixed the issue.
 
Interesting... I have no problem running float switches on my PM1 or PM2...
 
And you don't have an additional power source for the floats?

Edit: Should I be plugging the dosing pump to either Outlet 1 or 8? Or should it any outlet between 2 and 7?
 
Nope, no additional power source here. Just connected from input to ground.

I use an aqualifter an had to use it on 4 or 8 (the relay outlets) or it wouldn't turn on or off reliably.
 
I think I have all the coding in place. My only confusion is regarding the top off outlet. It shows coding regarding when the pump should be turned off but not when it should be turned on. How does that happen?
 
The OSC statement turns the outlet on 1.5 minutes out of each 10 minutes. The other statements over-ride the on time to keep the topoff pump off.
 
Got it. I think I'm set for tonight. Question for future expansion...Will the Waterbug sensors work with the BB or will I need a separate controller for that? I purchased 2 sensors only but I saw somewhere that will not work if I connect directly to the BB. Your thoughts?
 
Cool! Check this thread for a DIY water on floor sensor. http://www.atlantareefclub.org/forums/showthread.php?t=59554&highlight=Water">http://www.atlantareefclub.org/forums/showthread.php?t=59554&highlight=Water</a>

I'm not familiar with the waterbug sensors.
 
Thanks for the info. Regarding the glue you used. Does it provide a watertight seal or do I need something else between the cap and pipe? Additionally, should I be looking for a special type of glue or they're all non-toxic even if submerged in salt water?

Thanks....
 
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