I know I should just toss em, but I hate to see the waste. I do my nitrate test with Red sea but otherwise I'm still using API. I use a syringe for measuring to remove that variable but I don't know if I'm doing something wrong. I've been using Seachem's reef buffer to try and raise PH but it stays at 8.0. I add 1 or 2 gal of RODI water daily for evap and do weekly water changes of 5g (180g total system). My cal is showing 440 and hardness of 13 but pH stays right at 8 (or lower!). What makes API junk anyway? Sorry I realize this is like 2 threads in one but thanks for the thoughts!
Are all API test total junk?
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I don't buy into all that, actually. I haven't tested my water in months. I just do water changes regularly and don't dose a thing. I have mostly softies and LPS though.
I agree to an extent tex, there is alot of snobbery in expensive toys. I first became more concerned when my nitrate registered through the roof on API but nearly 0 on Red Sea. Most of my SPS has done well, but it hasn't thrived. I think that may be where the difference is. The folks that get the best growth (good for trades) have better water parameters, and I'd like to get to that point. I'd be curious if anyone with a chemistry background could offer an explanation about why API test arent as good. Heck, I have no clue how any of the water test even work.
If, at any time, you used the nitrate test without shaking bottle 2 it is worthless from then on. Think of vinegar and oil salad dressing. Don't shake, pour some out and you have a totally different concentration that will give you false readings.
Really all test kits are junk most are off or old by the time you git them they mainly just give you a rough estimate to go by
This may help more then test kits
Alge bloom, glass covered,hairalge, phos is high
Fowl odder from the tank ammonia
fishy odder Browning of sand nitrates are up
Cal or alk won't buffer right mag is low or nitrates are high
Sps brown or won't grow low chemical balance wrong(cal,alk,mag) light (blue light is for color white is for growth),to long of a photoperiod (causes the alge in the corals to git to hot lowering the ability to grow they have to cool down before they start growing skeletal mass phosphates , not enuf flow or to much and the list gose on
This may help more then test kits
Alge bloom, glass covered,hairalge, phos is high
Fowl odder from the tank ammonia
fishy odder Browning of sand nitrates are up
Cal or alk won't buffer right mag is low or nitrates are high
Sps brown or won't grow low chemical balance wrong(cal,alk,mag) light (blue light is for color white is for growth),to long of a photoperiod (causes the alge in the corals to git to hot lowering the ability to grow they have to cool down before they start growing skeletal mass phosphates , not enuf flow or to much and the list gose on
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When used properly I have had no problems with them in side by side with Salifert.
Most of you have had my general thoughts. I had considered the lack of shaking to change concentration, but I do shake it (though I count slowly to 60). I was a radical change though, for a long while it read as fine then all of a sudden my next test showed bright red.
Anyone have a good chemistry book suggestion on how water test work? (not looking for a web site, I want a nice hard bound reference)
Anyone have a good chemistry book suggestion on how water test work? (not looking for a web site, I want a nice hard bound reference)
