Bean animal overflow question on drain placement.

[knightmetro]

Ok, I MAY have a chance to pick up a 150 tall that is drilled at the top. It has three holes made for 1" bulkheads. They are spaced in about 1/3 increments across the tank. One in the middle for return, and one on each side evenly spaced between the middle and the walls. You get the picture.

I was thinking if I picked up this tank to do add an internal coast to coast skimmer overflow box on the top and dedicate the three holes to a Bean Animal overflow. Then run the return lines from the back, over the top, and into the tank. 2 lines.

Does the BA overflow have to have the three drains spaced together like in most pics I see, or can they be spread out and perform the same function?

I also want to know if there is any way to reduce the space needed behind the tank as much as possible. I don't want a tank I have to space 4-5" OFF the wall. That would look tacky to me where it's going to be.

 

[rdnelson]

Spacing shouldn't matter as long as they are at the same elevation.

Space behind the tank will be dictated by the tees and the ball valves. I think you will need a good 6".

 

[knightmetro]

Nope. If I'm going to do it I'm going to find a way to do it in 4" or less from the back of the glass. That way my stand is no more than 3" off the wall.

If I get the tank, I'll trail and error that thing til I get it right.

 

[eagle9252]

if you flip the bh and install backwards then you will be closer. you can get a fitting that will glue in a tee and have male threads coming out so you can screw it in the back of the flipped bh (spigxmpt) from spears but after doing a couple an worrying if i got them tight enough before gluing and hoping i did not crack the bh i would prefer to just glue it. if i ever had to remove it i would have to replace it but, it is what it is.

 

[rdnelson]

KnightMetro;827193 wrote: Nope. If I'm going to do it I'm going to find a way to do it in 4" or less from the back of the glass. That way my stand is no more than 3" off the wall.

If I get the tank, I'll trail and error that thing til I get it right.

Good luck but I have my doubts. LOL

Mine is &-1/2" but as you can see I could have shortened it 1".

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[rdnelson]

That should be 8-1/2".

 

[knightmetro]

With some modification, I know I can eliminate everything between these red lines. Mount the T right up to the bulkhead.

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Edit: Leveldrummer, your's is getting closer to my idea. All you would need to do is shave some the access of the end of those bulkheads and you'd be more like at 4". Those bulkhead threads are more than long enough. More than enough room to trim.

 

[eagle9252]

thats why i said flip them but you will loose more room in the tank

 

[knightmetro]

I agree. If you flipped the BH around, you'd tighten that space up.

 

[cedzaquaddiction]

I knew rdnelson99 and eagle9252 would be all over this when I saw the title. LOL. leveldrummer, you have a beautiful setup as well!!!

KnightMetro: You are in good hands. The aforementioned indivuduals are pretty much experts on this subject!!!

 

[knightmetro]

Well if I get the tank this weekend, I'll be picking brains left and right to get it plumbed right.

 

[cedzaquaddiction]

Make sure you post pics. I'm working on plumbing my sump as we speak...

 

[eagle9252]

if you LQQK at my build i turned my fittings 90* do to space. LQQK at my build. i meassured this am and not including the union it's 4 7/8" from tank to back of pipe. i used 1 1/2" pipe not 1" i used the 1" spigxmpt fitting and then a 1"street elbow then a 1x1 1/2" reducing bushing and a 1 1/2" sanitary tee.

******* safety alert******

i used a miter box and cut the backs off of the slip/spig fittings. instead of it bottoming out and the fitting being longer than needed it let it compress it some and conserve space.

 

[eagle9252]

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[90galguy]

Don't mean to steal your thread but I'd figure I'd keep it going with a few question on my own build. I'm in the process of doing a water test on my 40 cube with a BN and I'm having issues when doing a "power outage" simulation. When the return pump is powered off, my sump fills and overflows prior to the water level dropping below the down turned elbows on the two outlets. I'm getting a slight gurgle out of the siphon and the a flushing as well.

I believe I've followed the BN setup correctly. Any ideas on what I'm missing?


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[eagle9252]

The ba will only drain whats in the of. Do you have a hole in the return just under the water level?

 

[rdnelson]

Give a shot of the overflow box". Looks like your bulkheads are pretty low from the back side. Also the returns seem pretty low. Unless there is a check valve in the return it looks like a lot of water would siphon before it ever breaks siphon. Like eagle said, may need a siphon break in the returns.

 

[knightmetro]

Well I should hear today if I can trade up for this pre-drilled 150. So if I get my hands on it, I'd def like some help getting a coast 2 cast installed on it and some derivative of the Bean Animal on it.

I want to go with a glass bottom for the overflow, and a black glass front you can't see through. I've decided teeth aren't worth the effort or $ to pull off with glass. So I'll leave it flat.

Here are some pics from a guy over at reefcent that bought one with a C2C that's made exactly how I want mine.

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[cbj25]

that tank is sweet, looks to be primarily nps, could you pm or post the thread?

 

[knightmetro]

NP. This is one of those "if money isn't an issue" kind of spectacular builds. Some of the best live rock, coral, and displays I have seen.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2144250">http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2144250</a>

It's the best C2C overflow I've seen and kind of set the nail for me wanting one. I was worried about aesthetics more than anything, and here you can see just how clean it looks.