Best way to get rid of tube worms

jead85

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I've got alot, how can I get rid of these guys, just pry them off the rock?
 
i dont know why i said tube worms.. yes feather dusters.. i think i read the word "tube worm" today and it stuck in my head. lol
 
they are good to have i think, why do you want to get rid of them, I lost a bunch with a serious hair algae outbreak
 
Most wrasses will eat them too - but why get rid of them?

Love thy (tube) worms.

Jenn
 
If they have red heads doesn't that mean the are good?
 
they are just unattractive to me, i dont care if they are inside of overflow and stuff, but all over my rock? just not attractive. any suggestions on reef safe wrasse?
 
thanks jenn, i just looked at the title of my post "beat way".... stupid iphone always correcting me!
 
Corrected title for you.

I bet a 'lil blast of kalk slurry into their worm tube would do some damage.
 
thanks dave, it'd be alot of blasts... maybe aptasia x in the hole! also my question to you was involving two 250 watt HQI at 6 inches
 
A pair of needle nose pliers and just start crushing the tubes. That would probably work as well.

I think you'd be OK at 6 inches from the water surface with HQIs. That's about where my Current USA Outer Orbit placed the HQI lights in my first tank (a 120), when I had it on the tank with the mounting legs that came with it.

Just make sure you have the UV absorbing splash guards in place with your HQIs
 
Acroholic;531177 wrote: A pair of needle nose pliers and just start crushing the tubes. That would probably work as well.

I think you'd be OK at 6 inches from the water surface with HQIs. That's about where my Current USA Outer Orbit placed the HQI lights in my first tank (a 120), when I had it on the tank with the mounting legs that came with it.

Just make sure you have the UV absorbing splash guards in place with your HQIs

I have PFO 250w HQIs w/20KK Ushio bulbs over my 90, about 6-7 inches up. Heat is manageable, and I get 750 PAR at the surface, 350 at the sand. This is with the surface rippling, with all the flow still turned on. These aren't huge numbers, but I have no issues keeping SPS (and with good color) at the bottom. At the same time I'm not "cooking" softies on my frag rack 4" under the surface, either, so I'm happy with the balance.
I'm not sure exactly what concerns you have (that you have asked Dave about) but hopefully it's info you can use in some way.
 
yeah makes me feel better. Its my first experience with Halide. (always used T5HO) and i wasnt sure what was to much. But then again if a Nanocube HQI has a 150 like 3 inches off the water then i guess im ok :-)
 
1) Im guessing these are vermetid snails, not annelid worms of any kind, but I may be mistaken. That makes a load of difference in the treatment/eradication.

2) Jenn, I find it VERY unlikely that any fairy wrasse will eat them. Fairy will usually only eat out of the water column, and certain dont have the mouth structure to consume tubed worms.

3) As suggested, based on the actual animal in question, a butterfly is usually the best way to control them. Smaller, reef safe wrasses usually wont go after them.

OP, can you get a pic?
 
like i said, they are featherdusters. I said the wrong thing. Silly me!
 
If youre sure they are featherdusters, and physically removing them isnt going to happen, the only way to biologically remove them is by butterfly, in my opinion. But, also in my opinion, thats not a good reason to get a butterfly.
 
Is it like this in photo? It is Fan Worms & Feather Dusters. I have a lot in my tank. I'd like to know who to kill them too. It is great for reef tank but they not attractive.
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