Ok first off i know that i should not have bought this as the brand sucks but i am willing to try the t-5's the cheap way as i am a firm beleaver of halide but am willing to try new things, i ordered 24in t-5 odysey 2 bulb ho 58w setup, i know the bulbs that come with are garbage but i am putting this on my little frag tank for testing purposes and would like some input on what kelven rating and brand to use for best results...like i said i am in the dark about t-5's
Bulb suggestion!
- Thread starter jeep9783
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Just a note--
After speaking with someone who talked to Dana after his coral coloration lecture, it sounds like his dislike of T5's stemms partly from tests done with the cheaper, single reflector models, which left him unimpressed.
With T5's, it's a lot less about the bulbs I think than it is about having quality individual reflectors to focus the light. So if your fixture doesn't have ind. reflectors, you can probably plan to be disappointed in your testing. It wouldn't cost that much more to go with a 2-bulb tek retrofit, but even for a frag tank I'd suggest the 4-bulb setup (as Dana mentioned, one of the advantages of T5's is being able to cram in a lot of bulbs...)
As far as lighting goes, ATI and URI bulbs are the way to go. There are some other good ones out there, but these two are prevalent and proven winners. Go with a sunlight and a blue plus bulb if you only use two. The actinics are pretty crappy in my opinion, and I run VHO URI actinics for supplementation in my reef, and use the higher PAR t5s for my main lights.
After speaking with someone who talked to Dana after his coral coloration lecture, it sounds like his dislike of T5's stemms partly from tests done with the cheaper, single reflector models, which left him unimpressed.
With T5's, it's a lot less about the bulbs I think than it is about having quality individual reflectors to focus the light. So if your fixture doesn't have ind. reflectors, you can probably plan to be disappointed in your testing. It wouldn't cost that much more to go with a 2-bulb tek retrofit, but even for a frag tank I'd suggest the 4-bulb setup (as Dana mentioned, one of the advantages of T5's is being able to cram in a lot of bulbs...)
As far as lighting goes, ATI and URI bulbs are the way to go. There are some other good ones out there, but these two are prevalent and proven winners. Go with a sunlight and a blue plus bulb if you only use two. The actinics are pretty crappy in my opinion, and I run VHO URI actinics for supplementation in my reef, and use the higher PAR t5s for my main lights.
What I've learned on reefcentral is that Tek > Icecap, but they're both close. Am I mistaken? I know Icecap ballasts are definitely the best of the regularly available stuff, but are their reflectors really better too?
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Before you spend more money, just borrow the PAR meter from the club to see what those bulbs actually do. PM Tony about it. You may have enough light already, depending on what frags you're growing. Post your readings in the forum if you need help with them.
I am well aware of the readings and what they mean, I do beleave that the light will be traveling about 9in and 6 of it threw water and i have a mixture, as of right now all the sps are under the light (6500k MH 150w USHIO) and in the corners are all my softies, (no the mh is not that close right now b/c i was pushing over 400 par at the depth mentioned above so i upt it to about 18in above the tank, i fig with 58 watts of T-5 i would need it much closer to hope fully come close to matching what i have now...yes thanks andy as i am looking for growth not color at this point, until i get the other frag tank setup then this one will be show frag and the other grow frag.
Thanks all
Thanks all
U must have T-5's wbholwell, ok now what is the ratio of par to lumens or is there any? I have herd that T-5's are known for there lumens compared with MH as they take less watts to make the same amount of lumens as MH?-------Not sure if that was just a T-5 buff talking or if that was fact's talking?
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1 par = 50 lumens/lux. Lumens is visible light, or perceived brightness, not intensity.
Danny are u a walking dictionary or what, so as far as lumens i am assuming that 5000 lumens is a good reading at the bottom, is the lumens meter more expensive than the par? Anyone know a sight that has par or lumens meters for decent price?
