Welcome, Burger! Looking forward to seeing this come together!
I just got 2 Blue Plus and 1 Reef Day for a grow-out tank I'm putting together. I'm trying to mimic as much as possible what I do with the Orphek iCon on my main tank. I start and end the day with blues ramping up and then down. In the middle of the day, I ramp up to a white spectrum and then back down. I'll let you know how it goes.
I've never run anything but some rock in the sump and filter socks. Everybody has their own preference, but if you don't have a strong opinion on those things you may want to wait until you're up and running and decide what you need as things settle in.
I went with the Jebao version of the Neros and really like how they work.
I feel like I never hear anyone say anything bad about a return pump. Everything else someone has had a bad experience with, but it feels like any name brand (or Jebao) DC pump works fine. I use Jebao on my small tank and a Neptune COR-20 on my main tank. (It's
super overpowered, but I got it used as part of a package deal so

) Haven't had any issues with either one.
That was what I was going to go with, but Pure Reef sells a salt called Salinity from Seachem/Aquavitro that I decided to try. I don't know about trace elements because I haven't done an ICP in a while, but I do know that once I got my pH dialed in, my SPS took
off. I bought it because it was super cheap and I didn't need a high-end salt yet, but I'm running with it now. I'll do an ICP in a few more months once my SPS have grown for a while to see if it's lacking in trace elements, but so far so good!
It looks like your tank has a single overflow. Different people have different opinions on plumbing, but
I would use soft vinyl tubing for the drain line and the return line. It's just
so much easier. I hard-plumbed my main drain because I needed a gate valve on my Herbie overflow, but my other two lines are vinyl.
I didn't see a heater. I believe in having dual heaters (in case one fails) on their own controller, with the Apex as a backup (not the primary controller). Many say (and it sounds reasonable to me) that you don't want your Apex outlet cutting on and off all day long, that it will cause the outlet to eventually wear out. Much cheaper to get a separate heater controller.
I use the Helio PTC Smart Heaters from Innovative Marine, but I feel like everyone else in the world uses an Inkbird
Orphek sells a few different mounting options, but there are a few threads on R2R with creative mounting ideas. This thread is a good place to start, and it has links to other threads within it:
I see some people on here who mount their lights in the most clever ways. I have my mounted using the metal light mount that came with the tank/ light. I want to know how you are mounting your tank's lights. Did you go the DIY more complicated route, or did you stick with something simple. Photo...
www.reef2reef.com
The bars come with mounting brackets and wires. I'm planning to attach the mounting brackets to this bracket and mount it right to the wall:
The holes in the bracket seem like they might be the perfect spacing for the bars (we'll see very soon), and they are the perfect diameter to go with the mounting brackets.
I don't know anything about 3D printing (others here certainly do), but I know this guy sells pre-built kits for a 20L and does
outstanding work:
www.ebay.com
Here are my two:
I got into reefing
at the beginning of 2012. Started with a 5.5g bowfront that we had been using as a hermit crab enclosure, quickly moved to an 11.4g Mr Aqua, then to a full 90g. Eventually broke that down because of the work involved and ended up with a 30g shallow from Deep Blue. I also had some kind of small AIO by my desk at one point.
I ended up having an issue with the 30g that started killing off everything in it. I never did figure out what it was, and with all the work and stress of the past several years, I decided to take a break for a while. I almost got back in at...
(This one uses an AIO kit built by the eBay seller linked above.)