Cabinet drain solution

dawgface

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Little stumped and looking for suggestions on the best way to put a drain at the base of my stand.

Goal here is to drain any catastrophes out of the stand and out of the house before it meets my hardwood. I've completely sealed the stand with a rubberized spray. While long term I'd be in trouble it is more than capable carrying and holding a base full of water while allowing a sufficiently sized drain to do its work.

Ultimately I'm looking for methods of adding and sealing a drain to wood that can connect 1/2" tubing to run out of the house.

Or some kind of activated pump which activates in the event of a flood. I've heard of APEX water alert and other water-bug type applications. At the end of the day I'd like to have seen or read (reef related sites) of credible situations where this application actually worked when needed.

Any other ideas?
 
DawgFace;936348 wrote: Little stumped and looking for suggestions on the best way to put a drain at the base of my stand.

Goal here is to drain any catastrophes out of the stand and out of the house before it meets my hardwood. I've completely sealed the stand with a rubberized spray. While long term I'd be in trouble it is more than capable carrying and holding a base full of water while allowing a sufficiently sized drain to do its work.

Ultimately I'm looking for methods of adding and sealing a drain to wood that can connect 1/2" tubing to run out of the house.

Or some kind of activated pump which activates in the event of a flood. I've heard of APEX water alert and other water-bug type applications. At the end of the day I'd like to have seen or read (reef related sites) of credible situations where this application actually worked when needed.

Any other ideas?

So I am guessing your sump area that is rubberized now would act like a shallow basin and hold a few inches of water?

Jesse, IME the best solution for what you want to do is the simplest and most non electrical one you can get. What I would do is what MarkL suggested. Get a hole saw the correct diameter, and install a 3/4" minimum bulkhead connected to 1/2 tubing like you want in the bottom of the stand. As long as you have some downward sloping angle to drain it, you should be good. As long as you have the rubberized coating where the bulkhead gasket meets the stand bottom surface, it is sealed for moisture.

If you have the sides of the stand sealed up a few inches from the bottom, you could also place the bulkhead on the side/back of the stand for ease of installation instead of the bottom.

A water alarm is not bad thing to alert someone to a problem, but a gravity drain is the easiest, most foolproof thing you could do for that situation.
 
How about a well box/ pan in the stand and a mini evaporation pump, a small version of what's on most a/c with a 1/2" tube ran how ever you want.
The pump only turns on when it senses water in the pan.
With a little designing and all the parts this should work.
Make a pan out of acrylic the full size of the stand and all your equipment will sit right in it.
 
You guys are right, I believe I've made this entirely too complicated in my head.
 
A bulkhead is pretty "bulky". Hehehe. Go to Lowes or HD, they sell catch pans for water heaters that have a 3/4" PVC fitting with a gasket. They gave me one of the fittings free at the Cumming HD when I was building my ponds. Drill a hole close to the floor of the stand and reduce it down. Keep in mind though that each time you reduce it down the depth of the water would need to be a bit higher keeping it from draining 100%.


I know you all think I have no heart but now I have an ultrasound to prove it. :-)
 
rubber pond liner around the bottom of the stand and get a bulk head done and done.
 
I've seen acrylic basins that fit snugly into a stand. Not sure if it was custom made, but it would have held a good bit of water. Without any sort of slope to the drain, you'd need to be able to hold a little water.
 
What rubberized spray did you use ? I'm thinking about doing the same to my 60g cube
 
grouper therapy;936412 wrote: pvc shower drain would would low profile and can be reduced to any fitting

Good idea. However, it would require a pretty large hole in the floor that would need to be patched should you ever more or get rid of the tank.
 
shower drain, Concrete saw and jack hammer and tie into sewer line of the house, this way you can run water all day and never have a flood
 
rdnelson99;936590 wrote: Good idea. However, it would require a pretty large hole in the floor that would need to be patched should you ever more or get rid of the tank.
I was referring to installing it in the bottom of the stand/cabinet, not the floor. Keep up Rich.:tongue:
 
grouper therapy;936771 wrote: I was referring to installing it in the bottom of the stand/cabinet, not the floor. Keep up Rich.:tongue:


But doesn't the bottom o the stand sit on the floor? Of course at 5:00 AM I am likely missing something obvious but..... :-)



I know you all think I have no heart but now I have an ultrasound to prove it. :-)
 
Fidofence;936592 wrote: shower drain, Concrete saw and jack hammer and tie into sewer line of the house, this way you can run water all day and never have a flood


Constant water change. :-)



I know you all think I have no heart but now I have an ultrasound to prove it. :-)
 
MYREEFCLUB0070;936358 wrote: How about a well box/ pan in the stand and a mini evaporation pump, a small version of what's on most a/c with a 1/2" tube ran how ever you want.
The pump only turns on when it senses water in the pan.
With a little designing and all the parts this should work.
Make a pan out of acrylic the full size of the stand and all your equipment will sit right in it.

I still stand behind this method, no holes, no drilling, it all fits and I like the rubber liner option as a cheaper pan but not as clean looking.
Your call, let us all know what you go with so others can give it a shot.
 
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