Can someone explain this?
- Thread starter rostato
- Start date
I agree Dave. I believe that is a given, as Icecaps are known sources of high frequency. Additionally, he has correlated the interference with the ballast's operation. The approach to eliminate these types of issues are:
1) to eliminate it at the source (containment), which I have focused on, or
2) to shield the reception (in this case the TV/antenna).
In my experience #1 is generally easier/more effective, and #2 works only when access to the source is restricted, or other attempts at #1 fail. JMHO
just interfearence from the balast starting up over the power lines. it takes a REALLY high voltage to get the arc going that fires the bulb. In guessing the balast is plugged into the same outlet(or at least house circuit) as the tv.
Same thing happend with my elec 150w halide causing my computer speakers / screen to buzz and stuff when it fired up. its nothing to worry about, but if it bugs you just plug it in somewhere else.
Same thing happend with my elec 150w halide causing my computer speakers / screen to buzz and stuff when it fired up. its nothing to worry about, but if it bugs you just plug it in somewhere else.
Definitely too high. I recommend replacing the power cord for the ballast, if possible, and you are comfortable working with this sort of thing. If not, send it in for repair, or get someone with proper training (electronics tech/electrician) to do it. What may be happening is that you appear to have an improperly connected ground. The ground connection allows the case and shielding within the ballast and cabling to prevent radiation of the high frequency power. Without a good ground the light's power supply could act like a high frequency antenna/transmitter. While not a common problem to have, bad grounds are often responsible for these types of problems, when high frequency signals are involved. Afterward, check the resistance of the ground to your reflector, if present. If not present, you may need to ground the metal reflector as well.
FWIW-changing to another outlet or circuit will usually not solve noise/interference issues, as all outlets in a building are almost always connected to a common 'buss' (source). Additionally, many noise/interference issues are due to 'radiative' effects (through the air).
Hope this helps.
Ok. I will look at the ground on the ballast's case. The cord is only 3 inches long, and I am sure it is fine. I can take aoart the plug and look at it too. I just may have ot sand a little of the paint off of the ballasts case, and change the grounds hardware.
I used to be an electrician, so this is easy for me, and I am glad you point out the risks because some people might not realize the dangers. But, this is easy. I'll check back tomorrow after I redo the ground system of the ballast.
I used to be an electrician, so this is easy for me, and I am glad you point out the risks because some people might not realize the dangers. But, this is easy. I'll check back tomorrow after I redo the ground system of the ballast.
I used to have three x 250 watt IC ballasts on a tank about 15 feet from my big screen. When they started they caused horizontal lines to flash across the screen. Turn the ballasts off and the lines disappeared.
I also have a tiny indoor remote control helicopter I play with in my fish room. It uses IR based control, and it would always go nuts it I got it near the lights, so I guess they put off some kind of electrical waves that interfered with it.
Dave
I also have a tiny indoor remote control helicopter I play with in my fish room. It uses IR based control, and it would always go nuts it I got it near the lights, so I guess they put off some kind of electrical waves that interfered with it.
Dave
Great! I thought you might know what you were doing, based on your replies. Glad you're not offended. You are right on the money about safety. I have found some people are all over the electrical stuff, and the rest have no clue. I would hate for anyone to get themselves hurt trying to do things they aren't comfortable with. I know a lot of us take this for granted. Keep us posted, and good luck!
Below is a brief white paper about flourescent ballast grounding. The same principles apply to MH ballasts as well. Dave gives us a great illustration of what kinds of things we might expect. If we all do our 'homework', especially on DIY lighting, our results will produce less of this sort of thing, though may not completely eliminate it. I have worked on communcation systems, radar, robotics, computers, lasers and video; in addition to high frequency lighting. They can all have it, and I have lost lots 'o hair troubleshooting it 
. The problem, while not common thanks to the FCC, is none the less well distributed among high frequency and/or high voltage sources. Hope this helps.
. The problem, while not common thanks to the FCC, is none the less well distributed among high frequency and/or high voltage sources. Hope this helps.LOL. Hello study time.:lol2:
