Changing DI Resin

jcook54

Secretary
Staff member
Supporting
Contest Committee
Messages
2,799
Reaction score
3,391
Location
Stone Mountain
I have a TDS meter on my RODI unit and the water coming off the RO membrane is 1-2 ppm TDS and when it comes out the the DI resin, it's 0. My plan was to monitor and change when it no longer removed the last 1-2 ppm. Also, I plan to change the RO membrane when the TDS coming out goes up a bit. Seem reasonable, right? Well, I recently changed my sediment and carbon filters and noticed that my DI resin is nearly 2 years old. It's still working fine according to my TDS meter and a handheld one that I occasionally test with. Is there any reason I should change the DI resin due to age? Unfortunately it's not a color changing media because I bought the wrong one but I'm assuming the TDS meter will do the job I need it to. So, should I change the resin out because it's old or just let it ride?


Side note: I do occasionally swap the TDS sensors to make sure they're reading correctly. When I do, I get the same readings. i.e. one will read 1-2 and the other 0.
 
I like your plan, mine is the same except that I would first change sediment and carbon blocks if the incoming tds goes up, only changing the membrane if the tds stays up. I don't belive DI resin deteriorates with age so I see no sense in changing as long as it's working.
 
I know that there are a lot of variables - but how much mileage are you guys getting from your RODI units?
Like 10,000 gallons? More? Less? Whats your guessimate?
 
I use the color changing resin - when the first stage gets about 75% used up per the color I yank it, move the second to the first, put in all new resin to the second stage and run about 10 gallons through it.

Mine seems to last about 6 months - I made AT LEAST 1000 gallons on my last one. My TDS out never gets above 0.

Thinking about it I may have been well over 1000 gallons. I've added 2 180 gallon tanks so all the water it took to swap those around went through 1 DI filter. I just swapped the one (as described above) a couple weeks ago.

I do use a booster pump and I never make less than 20 gallons at a time.

All the other filters I change roughly once a year - if I saw TDS creeping up I would change them earlier.
 
On the high side, I make around 1000 gallons per year. Something around 15-20 gallons per week but probably a bit less for those weeks when I put off doing a water change longer than I should.
 
Wanted to add this info I found on the BRS site.....


Color Changing Mixed Bed DI Resin

  • Changes Color from Blue to Brown as the media is exhausted.
  • 1.5 Gallon - Fills 6 standard 10" refillable cartridges
  • 1.25 lbs. - Fills 1 standard 10" refillable cartridge
  • Packed in foil-lined 4mm Mylar bags to preserve quality (see Full Details for more info)
  • 2 year shelf life (unopened)
 
What's crazy is I've had my 200gpd rodi unit and i've put at least 1000 gallons through it, and my second stage DI is maybe 20% exhausted. The others haven't changed color yet. I guess City of Atlanta water isn't so bad?
 
I use the color-changing resin. I change it every year. When I do the first cartridge is usually 75% consumed. I will change both cartridges at the same time just because it's easier to deal with all at once. I change carbon and sediment filters every 3 months. Membranes are changed every 2 years. I tried to keep track of gallons used but I found that just keeping a schedule is easier.
 
geeze I hate you all. I have to change my DI resin out about once every 250+ gallons or so.... I'm on well water I think it is just cause I have a lot of C02 in my lines. Who knows.
 
From what I understand CO2 is a likely culprit. I have always wondered in that situation if there would be a way to let the CO2 outgas before you use it. Ever tried anything to deal with it?
 
My incoming water measures 1-2 TDS and I have had a hard time believing that is the case for city water, but my output is always zero after the DI so I leave it alone. I added to my 4 stage BRS system to make it a 7 stage with separate anion and cation that do not change color but the last stage is mixed bed and does. It's 6 months since I upgraded and about 10% of the color changing resin has been used. I plan to change yearly including the carbon blocks, it's just something I don't want to have a question about and I have enough algae as it is. I'm using a 1 micron prefilter and making about 30 gallons a week. I didn't know the membrane should be on a 2 year schedule. I'll add that to the list for January.
 
From what I understand CO2 is a likely culprit. I have always wondered in that situation if there would be a way to let the CO2 outgas before you use it. Ever tried anything to deal with it?
Not really. I've heard there is ways but honestly I am to lazy to do it. lol
 
I thought about adding another canister and running both types of DI resin but I don't know. I purchased this unit in 2004 and the only piece of hardware I've added was a 1 micron sediment filter so I could add a chloramine focused carbon block when Dekalb County started using them about 10 years ago. Other than that, things have worked out just fine and I think I could spend the time & $$$ better somewhere else. The TDS going into the first stage 1 micron filter is pretty steady at 39-45 but I do run a whole house 5 micron sediment filter and maybe that helps.
 
What's crazy is I've had my 200gpd rodi unit and i've put at least 1000 gallons through it, and my second stage DI is maybe 20% exhausted. The others haven't changed color yet. I guess City of Atlanta water isn't so bad?


Yeah I put about 9K gallons through mine a year. roughly 50-100 gallons a week and my resin barely budges.
 
Yeah I put about 9K gallons through mine a year. roughly 50-100 gallons a week and my resin barely budges.
That's how mine was in my last house. I literally moved 5 miles down into a new construction and the water supply sucks. My sediment filter use to never get clogged and I would just change it annually, in this new home, it would turn brown within 2 months. It's just horrible.
 
That's how mine was in my last house. I literally moved 5 miles down into a new construction and the water supply sucks. My sediment filter use to never get clogged and I would just change it annually, in this new home, it would turn brown within 2 months. It's just horrible.


I did utility contracting for a while and that is sooo rough on the water lines. While its technically potable for us it's terrible for our tanks and equipment
 
I did utility contracting for a while and that is sooo rough on the water lines. While its technically potable for us it's terrible for our tanks and equipment
That's good to know. I complained to Gwinnett county a few times and they keep saying they tested it and it passed. Next year, we plan on adding a whole home water filtration because its that bad.
 
I typically like to stay on topic for the sake of the OP but since that's me, I don't mind. Is 5 micron whole-house sediment filter adequate? I change mine, I don't know, may twice a year? I figure it's a decent way to keep out some of the bigger particle and it definitely block a tremendous amount of rust-colored gunk.
 
I typically like to stay on topic for the sake of the OP but since that's me, I don't mind. Is 5 micron whole-house sediment filter adequate? I change mine, I don't know, may twice a year? I figure it's a decent way to keep out some of the bigger particle and it definitely block a tremendous amount of rust-colored gunk.
Sorry to derail your thread. I just assumed you guys figured it out after Imm1967 found the unopened shelf life post.

I was thinking of adding an additional canister to my RO/DI set up and have a 5 micron sediment filter before hitting the 1 micron sediment filter.

BRS have a 10% sale of their RO/DI filter kits right now. Just ordered some myself.
 
Back
Top