Check valve in the return....good or bad idea?

porpoiseaquatics

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In my new build....I put together a loop that sits on top of the tank for my return (I used all 4 overflows as supply). Not wanting a lot of water back in the sumps in case of a power failure...I planned to use a check valve but I'm thinking that it will restrict to much return flow.

So how do you feel....good or bad idea? Anybody have any idea of how much flow I would loose if I put one in? It's a 3/4" line.
 
grouper therapy;863160 wrote: oversize the check valve and you will loose little if any flow

I thought about that and remembered reading somewhere that if you oversized it say to 1 1/4" or even 1 1/2", it would be ok. I just have to figure out how to reduce it on the outgoing side to 3/4".
 
The correct check valve maintained regularly , rarely ever fails if at all. Ran one for years.
 
leveldrummer;863173 wrote: check valves almost always fail after enough salt water use. its best to simply route one return very close to the top of the water level so when power dies, it sucks air very soon and breaks any syphon.


I've heard this too. So many pros and cons on these. I put one in but may take it out.
 
I'm planning on incorporating one. I'm also planning to have it threaded for the ease of maintenance/replacment of the unit. I also think it's foolish to purchase the "high" dollar check valves that a lot of people swear you to get. No matter how cheap or expensive, they ALL fail at some point with my plumbing experience.
 
The biggest advantage to incorporating a check valve especially while using a centrifugal pump is preventing the back flow of water from spinning the impeller backwards and then spinning loose when restarted in a momentary power lose/ restart. I'm not sue how a non corrosive swing check valve can fail if properly maintained?
 
All it takes is something to lodged preventing it to perform. Yes, I agree maintenance is key!
 
I'm running one on my return. It is open while the return pump is on, and blocks the water from going back into the sump, and do my drain outside for water changes.

Hope I don't jynx myself, but mine has had no issues. I run RODI water through it every other month fo flush out any residuals. Plus, it gets tested everytime I do a water change twice a month. If it has failed between water changes, I'll find out at my next water change. It's there more for convenience than anything else. I have my water levels set so it won't overflow in the event that my return pump and check valve fail at the same time...

Isn't having one better than not? If the return pump fails, wouldn't you be in the same boat with a failed check valve that you would without one? I'd rather have a check valve just in case it does work...

Best of luck!!!
 
I bought a clear pvc one from pure reef, its easy to see if something is obstructing it. It's a flapper type, not at ball type.
 
Sn4k33y3z;863189 wrote: All it takes is something to lodged preventing it to perform. Yes, I agree maintenance is key!
I'm not sure what would make it past the impeller that could do that but yes the flapper being restricted would cause a failure.
 
I've been running a union check valve on my 120g about a foot from the return pump. In almost four years I've cleaned it exactly twice. It's a flapper style valve that sit horizontal.

It gets tested every day when I turn my pump off to feed my fish and hasn't failed yet. I've even removed the back half to clean out my return pipes on many occasions and not so much as a drip.
 
Well maybe i just need a different type mine quit working after a few months, now i just have an anti siphon hole drilled on the underside of my locline return.
 
I'm thinking about getting some union ball check valves for mine... 1.5" pipe, so possibly over-sized to 2" for the check valve.
 
grouper therapy;863217 wrote: I'm not sure what would make it past the impeller that could do that but yes the flapper being restricted would cause a failure.

I wouldn't think one small piece of something would cause a failure, as a build up of small fragments over time (without maintenance) would cause the issue.
 
I have the flapper type. Been in for about a year. Tests every 2 weeks when I do a water change.

It's a calculated risk kinda thing. Yes, they can fail, so you keep an eye on it and test it regularly.
 
I have never used one, but I would not use one whose purpose is to keep a sump from overflowing in case of a power outage. Other than that, no problem using one if you want.

But I would advise anyone to make sure your sump can handle all backflow volume in case you do lose power, regardless of whether you use a check valve or not.
 
Acroholic;863294 wrote: I have never used one, but I would not use one whose purpose is to keep a sump from overflowing in case of a power outage. Other than that, no problem using one if you want.

But I would advise anyone to make sure your sump can handle all backflow volume in case you do lose power, regardless of whether you use a check valve or not.

Exactly! Their main purpose should be the the prevention of the impeller reversal I spoke of earlier which is not an issue with mag drives but can burn out a centrifugal pump in a matter of seconds. Even then it is worse in a basement sump application. IMO they are great to use in conjunction with an anti siphon system. In the event of a power failure and one does fail with a slow leak such that enough time passes for the water level to drain down past the return outlets, a full sump will only be half your worries!!!
 
I ran a check valve on my 150 closed loop. It never failed, but I didn't exactly have peace over it either.

Given the options, I doubt I'll have another.

Overflow with redundancy built in for me (2 drains, one return).
 
ichthyoid;863350 wrote: I ran a check valve on my 150 closed loop. It never failed, but I didn't exactly have peace over it either.

Given the options, I doubt I'll have another.

Overflow with redundancy built in for me (2 drains, one return).

On a closed loop? What for?
 
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