Chilling

[hhv00586]

Got back from a 5 week vacation to find my tank temp at 87

A number of coals are dead and couple of fish. Rest seems ok

I put fans all over it, did 2 50% water changes, ice bags etc

I now have the tank averaging 81. No matter what i do that's the best i can get

My home temp is between 72 and 76 depending on time of day

Tank is on an outside wall but no direct sun. Tank size is 80g plus sump

I turned all lights of except leds

I was thinking of trying a chiller but no way it can go in the house. Wife already complains of how much space equipment takes up, plus the additional noise

So to the question - has anyone placed chiller on outside of house, what's impact to cooling ability?

 

[enderg60]

It will work no matter where you put it.

If its inside, you get less piping so less temp loss. But you will get a lot of noise and a lot of heat added to the room.

If you put it outside you get much quieter space around the tank, longer piping so less efficient. Being outside the temps are higher so there is a bit more efficiency loss, and you have to make sure the unit is weather proof.

If you can put it outside in the shade, or in a crawl space youre golden. I ran mine outside and never had any issues for 3-4 years.

 

[crew]

If you don't want to go chiller, you could try and find the source of the heat and remove/replace it. You said your tank stays at 81 even with only LEDs on, so we can try and go from there.

LEDs produce almost zero heat, infrared or otherwise, so we can rule that out.

Let's start with how you monitor the temperature in your tank. Do you only have one thermometer? What kind is it? Have you calibrated/tested it against others to verify the readings? Once you've verified that you are reading the temperature accurately, I would look at how close the temperature probe is to your actual heaters. Maybe there is a big gap there, causing them to stay on well after your tank has hit it's goal temperature and causing the entire tank to "swing" past the goal temperature.

If none of that is the problem, I would look at other pieces of gear. In sump return pumps are notorious for dumping heat into the water, specifically the Mag line of return pumps. Even if you aren't using a mag pump (I'd bet you are though), restricting a return pump would also add heat (you are making the pump work harder. Whether this means a dialed back ball valve or even using a smaller diameter pipe, all of these are easy fixes. DC pumps tend to run cooler - you should look in Sicce, Eheim or Jebao.

After all of that, if you still have a heat issue, then you could look into a chiller.

 

[bcavalli]

crew;1040677 wrote: if you don't want to go chiller, you could try and find the source of the heat and remove/replace it. You said your tank stays at 81 even with only leds on, so we can try and go from there.

Leds produce almost zero heat, infrared or otherwise, so we can rule that out.

Let's start with how you monitor the temperature in your tank. Do you only have one thermometer? What kind is it? Have you calibrated/tested it against others to verify the readings? Once you've verified that you are reading the temperature accurately, i would look at how close the temperature probe is to your actual heaters. Maybe there is a big gap there, causing them to stay on well after your tank has hit it's goal temperature and causing the entire tank to "swing" past the goal temperature.

If none of that is the problem, i would look at other pieces of gear. In sump return pumps are notorious for dumping heat into the water, specifically the mag line of return pumps. Even if you aren't using a mag pump (i'd bet you are though), restricting a return pump would also add heat (you are making the pump work harder. Whether this means a dialed back ball valve or even using a smaller diameter pipe, all of these are easy fixes. Dc pumps tend to run cooler - you should look in sicce, eheim or jebao.

After all of that, if you still have a heat issue, then you could look into a chiller.

+1

 

[hhv00586]

Thanks, I am thinking it is my sump pumps
Yes its a mag

All in all my small sump is full of equipment due to 3 pumps
1 Mag return pump
1 Pump feeding Phos reactor
1 Pump as part of the in sump skimmer

 

[crew]

so a much cheaper option than a chiller would be replacing the mag pump and the pump for your phosphate reactor with a single, nice return. Not only will you eliminate the heat, but it will be quieter too.

Personally, I'd recommend a Sicce, eheim, or one of the DC pumps. I really like my reef octopus DC pump. Runs silently and doesn't pump out heat.

Even the cheapest chiller will run $500, where a new return for a tank your size will be considerably less.

 

[crew]

Acandoit;1040740 wrote: Agree with this mostly other than the little nit about a return pump working harder when the return is restricted. I know my Reeflo pumps actually use less energy and work less when the output is restricted....

I should have been more clear - I meant when you restrict via ball valves or something. Not via turning the pump down.

 

[skriz]

hhv00586;1040694 wrote: Thanks, I am thinking it is my sump pumps
Yes its a mag

All in all my small sump is full of equipment due to 3 pumps
1 Mag return pump
1 Pump feeding Phos reactor
1 Pump as part of the in sump skimmer

Dump the Danner Mag pumps. I had a Mag 9.5 in my sump as a feed pump. After I removed it, my tank temps dropped 10 degrees. 10. TEN!

 

[crew]

Acandoit;1040755 wrote: Actually, I turn my output flow down via ball valve and it lowers the energy consumption of my pump. Throttles it as it were...

that's awesome - I didn't know there were pumps that compensated that way.

 

[russ-iv]

Acandoit;1040755 wrote: Actually, I turn my output flow down via ball valve and it lowers the energy consumption of my pump. Throttles it as it were...

my dolphin amp master does the same

 

[bulkrate]

If you have one or more heaters you may also want to check to see if one of them is stuck in the "on" position or the internal thermostat is shot & no longer reacting to set points.

Turn it off, let it cool down for 20-30 minutes and then stick it in a bucket of water (fresh is OK) with a small powerhead to keep the water circulating & see what the temp is after a few hours with a good thermometer.

If off by more than +/- 2F, I'd look at replacing it.

 

[camellia]

Crew;1040723 wrote: so a much cheaper option than a chiller would be replacing the mag pump and the pump for your phosphate reactor with a single, nice return. Not only will you eliminate the heat, but it will be quieter too.

Personally, I'd recommend a Sicce, eheim, or one of the DC pumps. I really like my reef octopus DC pump. Runs silently and doesn't pump out heat.

Even the cheapest chiller will run $500, where a new return for a tank your size will be considerably less.

I switched out my Mag 9.5 to a Quietone 4000 last summer for the same reason.

I ran a QuietOne 3000 on my last system (55) and they have both been good pumps?

 

[camellia]

Skriz;1040754 wrote: Dump the Danner Mag pumps. I had a Mag 9.5 in my sump as a feed pump. After I removed it, my tank temps dropped 10 degrees. 10. TEN!

+1

I did the same.

Used a QuiteOne 4000 to replace the Mag 9.5 last year because of high temps.

Used a QuiteOne 3000 on my 55 gallon, QuiteOne's have been good pumps for me and very reasonably priced!

 

[grouper therapy]

Crew;1040756 wrote: that's awesome - I didn't know there were pumps that compensated that way.

Most all pumps do.

 

[camellia]

Crew;1040756 wrote: that's awesome - I didn't know there were pumps that compensated that way.

But Crawford you certainly knew how to help him, saved the day without costing him a ton on chiller even though that wasn't the question!

I love seeing threads like this! Just think of what "others" that are not part of ARC and/or don't post about an issue their having miss out on...

 

[hhv00586]

Camellia;1040834 wrote: But Crawford you certainly knew how to help him, saved the day without costing him a ton on chiller even though that wasn't the question!

I love seeing threads like this! Just think of what "others" that are not part of ARC and/or don't post about an issue their having miss out on...

Thanks for everyone's advice. I will look for a new return pump and T it to feed my reactor and return flow and see what that gives me

 

[camellia]

Post back, would love to hear good news!

 

[hhv00586]

Camellia;1040838 wrote: Post back, would love to hear good news!

Just ordered a quiet one 5000 i found online for $50. I will have to make some mods to my sump but will post back in a few weeks once it has been installed

 

[hhv00586]

Well I found the problem of high temp

I was doing some maintenance and turned everything off. When I turned back on the skimmer would not start.

I removed it, took it to pieces and cleaned/soaked in white vinegar.

Re-installed and started up perfect.

a day later my temp is 77.8

I am guessing the build up of calcium on the skimmer pump was making it work real hard and creating heat

 

[camellia]

No way! That's crazy, what type of skimmer?
You won't be dissapointed in the QO 5000 (for $50) but if you don't think you need it maybe it's not to late to cancel the order?