Here's some good info I've found on Croceas:
Specific Care Information: Relative Care Ease: http://www.centralpets.com/pages/similar.php?AnimalNumber=1809&similar=care"><span style="color: #0000ff;">Average</span></a> Crocea Clams require high intensity lighting. Clams with bright coloring (especially blue) should be placed high in the aquarium, close to light. Crocea Clams with brownish coloration have been deprived of light, and must be acclimated to bright lighting. These should be placed in deeper areas, so as not to shock them, until they are accustomed to light. You may wish to place your Crocea Clam on a movable object if you wish to acclimate it to light. These clams will eventually bore into a substrate or other substance on which they are placed. Once you place your Crocea Clam in your aquarium, you will generally not be able to move it again. Pulling at the clam may damage tissues associated with its byssal gland. Many wild caught specimens are damaged in such a manner, and may not live long. If you are buying a wild caught clam, you may wish to purchase a specimen attached to a rock or base. You should not place a Crocea Clam in an aquarium with predatory fish or animals, since the wide openings of these clams leave them susceptible to predation. Like most Giant Clams, Crocea Clams do best when temperatures remain in the upper 70 degrees Fahrenheit (mid 20 degrees Celsius), with a pH of 8.3 to 8.4 and a specific gravity of 1.024. Crocea Clams should be placed on live rock or some other solid material they can attach to. Often, live rock with a depression fitting the Crocea Clam's shell is best as long as the clam can fully open. Water with current or higher turbidity is acceptable for Crocea Clams, who tend to do better under such conditions than many Giant Clam species. However, high current should not be a constant condition in an aquarium where Crocea Clams are kept. Crocea Clams are quite sensitive to chemicals or toxic substances dissolved in the water, so it is important to ensure good water quality. Levels of trace elements or other dissolved substances should be measured about once each month. The dissolved calcium level should remain above 12 DkH.
As with all giant clams, they do not need to be fed, creating most of their food through photosynthetic processes accomplished by symbiotic zooxanthellae living in the tissues of the clam.
[IMG]http://www.centralpets.com/images/dkbluepx.gif" alt="" />Breeding and Propagation: Relative Breeding Ease: UncertainThe Crocea Clam has reached sexual maturity when it loses its byssal structure. This usually occurs when the clam is about 4 inches (12 centimeters) long. In the wild, Crocea Clams release gametes into surrounding water; if egg and sperm cells unite, the resulting planktonic larvae will float freely for about ten days before settling on the bottom to develop. In captive breeding programs, many people will briefly warm the tanks in which their Crocea Clams are kept. This often triggers a gamete release. However, the release of clouds of sperm and egg cells can overload a small tank. In home aquaria, gametes are usually released in response to stress. One Crocea Clam that is not healthy, and releases its gametes, may cause all Giant Clams in the area to release gametes. This can vastly compromise water quality in a home aquarium, as clouds of gametes may pollute the water quickly. Many fish, particularly Chromis species, may eat these gametes, and protein skimmers can generally aid in cleaning up a gamete release, as well. If many Giant Clams are kept in an aquarium, you may wish to remove the one that is initially releasing gametes, if you wish to prevent other clams from doing the same. If the Crocea Clam cannot be moved, you may siphon out the gametes by placing a tube, in which suction has been started, over the clam. After the gamete release is over, you should observe the individual that initiated the process, in order to be sure that it is not unhealthy or ailing. You may wish to perform a partial water change.
