Cyano Problem

[ibleedblue65]

I know this has been discussed before, but i was hoping to get some personal insight from those who have dealt with this before. My tank has been up for about three months and a couple of weeks ago I began dealing with a cyano issue. It started on a particular rock that was under lower light, and has since spread to my entire tank. I have fixed the light issue but it continues to spread.
About my tank:
72 gallon bowfront drilled
15 gallon fuge
10 gallon sump with 125 coralife skimmer
Black & White clown,
Bicholor pseuodochromis
Pencil Urchin
Misc. paly's and zoas

I have increased my waterchanges, added the cheato, added more flow and bumped up the cuc but it still does not seem to be decreasing.

Parameters checked yesterday:
Nitrates -0
Ph-8.2
Alk-3.0 mg/l
Calc-450 ppm
Phosphates-0

My light cycle is 10k's for 10 hrs and Actinics for 12. And my fuge light is on the other 12.

Should I decrease my light cycle? Go to 24 hour on in the fuge? Am I doing something wrong here or is this normal? Could I be overfeeding? I feed daily typically but not large amounts.

Thanks to all for the help in advance.

 

[shrimpy brains]

Your light schedule is a tad long. I only run mine for about 8 hrs total.

Your readings of 0 for nitrates and phosphates could be because the cyano is using it up!

Keep on with the increased water changes and siphon out as much cyano as possible.

You are only feeding 3 fish. Try not to feed more than they can consume in about 30 seconds. If you think they need more, you can do the same amount a second time.

Also, what is your water source??

 

[ibleedblue65]

I will cut back the light cycle. I kind of figured the nitrate and phosphate reading could be false. I will attempt to keep my eye on the feeding and adjust accordingly. I do not have an ro unit so I get ro water from a local lfs for top offs and water changes. Thank you for the help

 

[shrimpy brains]

Not saying it's the case, but sometimes lfs's are not good about changing their filters. Not sure how you could find out whether they have or not.

Also, keep in mind that new tanks can go thru many types of algae blooms that will settle down as the tank matures. It's still good to eliminate it as much as possible, but may balance itself in time!

 

[ibleedblue65]

guess I need to get an ro unit soon. It's top of my list as well as an ato. Just have other expensive hobbies that tend to take up my extra cash

 

[grouper therapy]

cyano bacteria

 

[raisedonnintendo]

Cyano on grows n certain spectrums of lights coral does not need to survive. You probably have to much par. When you need pur it a very common mistake. Most everyone know a days thinks it's par they need n there tanks. So they try to hit high numbers but it will just grow cyano like crazy. First off is there any sun light-or is there incadecent light near the tank, maby even the florecent lighting n the room. Second change your bulbs you need the right colors n your bulbs. If there cheap walmarts or something.

 

[raisedonnintendo]

Also a cheap n tank uv could help fry it when it's free swiming

 

[grouper therapy]

Cyano bacteria can grow in almost any spectrum and intensity of light. Actually they can grow in no light.Cyano bacteria can also use hydrogen sulfide as the electron donor that it needs to start it's Calvin cycle . This hydrogen sulfide can be a result of the colonization of surplus anaerobic bacteria in your tank. This colonization is usually a result of excess ammonia in the water which is common in immature systems.This can be a good thing since it usually means your biological filtration is in full swing. That may be why your nitrate and phosphate levels may read low. The cyano will usually hang around until this excess hydrogen sulfide is exhausted. I have seen this cycle in many new systems over the years and it usually disappears as quickly as it appeared once the above has transpired. Not saying this is the case of your system but one to consider perhaps. The reason the shorter light cycle seems to speed up the cycle is that it forces the cyano to use the hydrogen sulfide instead of the light. Hope this helps some.

 

[lilrobb]

grouper therapy;514280 wrote: Cyano bacteria can grow in almost any spectrum and intensity of light. Actually they can grow in no light.Cyano bacteria can also use hydrogen sulfide as the electron donor that it needs to start it's Calvin cycle . This hydrogen sulfide can be a result of the colonization of surplus anaerobic bacteria in your tank. This colonization is usually a result of excess ammonia in the water which is common in immature systems.This can be a good thing since it usually means your biological filtration is in full swing. That may be why your nitrate and phosphate levels may read low. The cyano will usually hang around until this excess hydrogen sulfide is exhausted. I have seen this cycle in many new systems over the years and it usually disappears as quickly as it appeared once the above has transpired. Not saying this is the case of your system but one to consider perhaps. The reason the shorter light cycle seems to speed up the cycle is that it forces the cyano to use the hydrogen sulfide instead of the light. Hope this helps some.

Very wise words, thanks Dave!

 

[ibleedblue65]

i have heard that chemiclean is only a temp fix and not a solution but cannot speak from experience. Should I continue my removal and waterchanges cut back my light cycle and just assume this is part of cycling? Can I test for hydrogen sulfide? My ammonia has been at 0 for a while now. I do not believe that the bulbs are the issue, they are all less than 3 months old. How can I test the ro wated from my lfs to make sure it is good?

 

[musicalocean]

I can only speak from personal experience but I did have a fairly aggressive Cyano outbreak on my sandbed shortly after my tank cycled. I was not sure if yours is mostly in your sand or on your rockwork. I bought a golden headed sleeper goby & now my sand is snow white & no more cyano. I dont know why it wouldnt hurt to ad a sand sifting goby of some kind. I also hear the diamond sleeper goby is a good one too. I also added several powerheads to make sure I had a good amount of flow as well. I think that Cyano loves dead spots with no flow or very little. Mine went away easy enough & I hope yours does too good luck with it

 

[cr500_af]

musicalocean;514314 wrote: I think that Cyano loves dead spots with no flow or very little.

Generally true... though I have had it grow inside the body of my recirc skimmer, and even once on the grille of a Koralia 4. Luckily, with proper maintenance it will do like you said and not last too long in most cases.

 

[musicalocean]

Barry, I totally forgot about that. It got in mine too!

 

[raisedonnintendo]

ibleedblue65;514306 wrote: i have heard that chemiclean is only a temp fix and not a solution but cannot speak from experience. Should I continue my removal and waterchanges cut back my light cycle and just assume this is part of cycling? Can I test for hydrogen sulfide? My ammonia has been at 0 for a while now. I do not believe that the bulbs are the issue, they are all less than 3 months old. How can I test the ro wated from my lfs to make sure it is good?

It has nothing to do with how old the bulbs are just how much of the useless spectrum the emit. Does that make more sense. Certain kinds of light feed cyano more then other. Like bulb brands is what im getting at

 

[jennm]

BNeal;514285 wrote: I know some people wont agree with this, but Chemiclean Red Slime remover works really well. I have used it every time I have had an outbreak and have not had any problems. The only downside is you cant run any real filtration for two days.

It's not a fix. It's a band-aid. The fact that you have had repeated outbreaks says that the underlying problem(s) has/have not been fixed. Just sayin...

Jenn

 

[drnecropolis]

Yup.. Like putting a band-aid on a shotgun wound..

I dealt with it one time that was really severe in my 180 years ago.. I tried everything and couldn't win the battle.. I did a 4 day lights out to reduce it just to have a little less to make me feel better.. It died back 100% and never came back.. Don't know why or how.. Just glad it didn't come back..

I had a semi decent outbreak in my inwall not to long ago.. Just stepped up WC's to once every 4 days and got the upper hand on it and was able to get it under control..

 

[grouper therapy]

ibleedblue65;514306 wrote: i have heard that chemiclean is only a temp fix and not a solution but cannot speak from experience. Should I continue my removal and waterchanges cut back my light cycle and just assume this is part of cycling? Can I test for hydrogen sulfide? My ammonia has been at 0 for a while now. I do not believe that the bulbs are the issue, they are all less than 3 months old. How can I test the ro wated from my lfs to make sure it is good?

Your ammonia levels or lack of have nothing to do with it now . No need to test for the hydrogen sulfide as it will dissipate after the system balances. If that is actually the source of food for the cyano.The lack of flow in certain areas can contribute to the appearance of cyano due to that area possibly producing the hydrogen sulfide . It is common for the cyano to appear on sandbeds since it is usually packed full of anaerobic bacteria. I posted this info for you to consider as one reason the cyano may have reared it's ugly head and to let you know it may not be anything you are doing wrong but just part of the tank maturing.
All the things mentioned(light,nutrients,low flow and hydrogen sulfide)are things that the cyano uses to survive. Imo continue with the removal and with the water changes. Monitor your feeding regiment closely and make adjustment if needed. I have never heard of an instant fix for the cyano so be persistent and patient with your water changes along with monitoring your feeding and give it a few weeks.

 

[grouper therapy]

DrNecropolis;514344 wrote: Yup.. Like putting a band-aid on a shotgun wound..

I dealt with it one time that was really severe in my 180 years ago.. I tried everything and couldn't win the battle.. I did a 4 day lights out to reduce it just to have a little less to make me feel better.. It died back 100% and never came back.. Don't know why or how.. Just glad it didn't come back..

I had a semi decent outbreak in my inwall not to long ago.. Just stepped up WC's to once every 4 days and got the upper hand on it and was able to get it under control..

I had a small amount of cyano in my big tank when I set it up but I used diy rock so I had very little die off . The tank cycled slowly. The cyano was gone in a week after it first appeared. My nano was covered in cyano so I decided to let it grow since there was nothing in the tank. It covered everything for a few days and then died off and never returned.

 

[acroholic]

I envy you guys that "get cyano once, then you do larger water changes and it never comes back." I've had recurring cyano issues ever since I got back into reefing. Lack of flow wasn't/isn't the issue for me. It just seems to come and go for me. I don't have it all the time, but sometimes.