Cyano problem

rdrink25

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I am haveing a cyano problem what snails should I get? I have a Harley shrimp so all my sand sifters end up dinner.
 
And follow instructions exactly...find source for the long term...
 
126 reef;778974 wrote: Snails won't eat cyano. Get some chemiclean.


Before you get a quick fix... how old is your tank? chemicals only solve things short term... if you don't fix the problem it will just come back. Chemiclean can be a huge mess if you don't follow it exactly.
 
If you use chemiclean, it will take lots of water changes after its done before skimmer stops over acting.
 
126 reef;779020 wrote: Put a piece of tubing on the outlet on your skimmer cup and do the water change. That way you can concentrate te chemiclean.

:doh: That's a great idea...wish I'd have thought of that.
 
UltraLife Reef Products Red Slime Remover runs circles round ChemiClean and it won't crash your tank....

But having said that, I agree with the others that suggest that a chemical fix is a last resort.

What are your parameters? Tank size/age? Type of lighting and age of lamps (if applicable).

How many fish and how much/often do you feed?

First step to solving the problem is discover the source and address that.

All the chemicals in the world won't keep the problem away, and in fact if one attempts a chemical fix with poor water quality to start, it can be a big risk to tank inhabitants.

Jenn
 
We've used it with sensitive creatures, including clams, with no ill effects.

While we recommend a water change after treatment, according to the package directions, it's not "imperative" (with Chemiclean one MUST do a water change or risk detrimental effects).

It's just as effective, if not more so, but not as harsh.

Jenn
 
I've used Chemiclean twice.. and both times it has done AWESOME... Yes there is a water change that you've got to do following the dosage, but I've always looked at that as part of the process... it is effective, but yes. follow the directions or ELSE haha.

B
 
What causes cyano?

The simple answer is excesses.

Excessive photo periods (particularly lights in the 560 to 620 nm range)</em>, excessive phosphates (typically caused by using tap water)</em>, excessive nitrates (over feeding, lack of maintenance/water changes etc.)</em>.
 
Bga is a bacteria not an alge it has to be introduced in to the tank usuly on frags and rock

Usuly there is a sediment layer under the film first places to show growth in tanks is a dirty rock one that collects food and fish waste and on top of old alge that has died or ben smothered
High tds phos nitrate along with old bulbs will fuel the growth

Suck the film out and take a tooth brush and scrub the rock, shorten your photo period and lower feeding also increase your wc, change carbon weekly and do not dose amino acids or coral foods wile your trying to control it
 
I have a newly setup tank, about 3 months old. So im dealing with some algae growth and some excessive phosphates, probable from the dead rock I used and probable some overfeeding.

I went on vacation for a week and setup an automatice feeder, that basically overfed, and man the cyno yesterday was awesome. I didnt think to take a picture but it was insane. Everything was smothered in red carpet.

I had some pellets dumping in twice a day and from the looks of the food left over and the overspillage along the tank it was a freakin Vegas buffet. Needless to say I would cut way down on feeding, and target feed fish as best you can for a while. Assuming your using RODI, I think feeding is one of the biggest sources of excessive algae growth.

Good Luck
 
JennM;779049 wrote: UltraLife Reef Products Red Slime Remover runs circles round ChemiClean and it won't crash your tank....

But having said that, I agree with the others that suggest that a chemical fix is a last resort.

What are your parameters? Tank size/age? Type of lighting and age of lamps (if applicable).

How many fish and how much/often do you feed?

First step to solving the problem is discover the source and address that.

All the chemicals in the world won't keep the problem away, and in fact if one attempts a chemical fix with poor water quality to start, it can be a big risk to tank inhabitants.

Jenn

I picked some of this stuff up from Jenn for my reef tank and it worked wonders!

Knocked out my cyano problem in a couple days and hasn't been back since. That was more than a year ago.

I waited a few days afterwards to do my water change too - didn't seem to harm anything.
 
Ive heard that mollies will eat cyano, not sure if it's true or not but thinking about giving them a try.
 
I've never heard that about Mollies. They will eat algae, but cyanobacteria are not algae.

The best long-term solution is addressing the cause, not the effect.

Jenn
 
watch
 
Has anyone noticed that most of the cyano out breaks talked about here are on systems that are less than 6 months old. In this time period we encourage the newbies to be patient and let the system cycle and establish a balanced quantity of bacteria . As soon as bacteria ( including Cyano) really starts to culture we tell then to attack it with a chemical. I've never used either of the products but my guess would be that it does not discriminate the many bacterias in our systems. The one chemiclean product instructs us to do multiple water changes after it's use. I can't help but wonder if that might need to be done beforehand and then forgo it's use.
 
Every spring (~Feb to early May) we seem to have more customers battling cyano than any other time of year. I don't know if it's coincidence or what, but even well established tanks can have an outbreak.

I do agree that it's more common among younger tanks, most people experience it sooner or later (but not necessarily all).

It's one of the oldest life forms on the planet. If Mother Nature hasn't killed it off, the best we can hope to do is control it somewhat.

Jenn
 
I only have my limited experience to rely on but it backs up what Grouper mentioned. My tank (only a few months old) had a small outbreak. I continuted my weekly water changes but concentrated on vacuuming that area of the sand bed. Each week it would come back but each time it was less and less. Lasted maybe 4 weeks. It has now been non-existant for a few weeks. Part of the fix I believe is that the tank has been fallow for the past 4-5 weeks. Therefore, feeding has been greatly reduced (feed the corals and CUC a couple times a week is all). I think the lower feeding was the biggest part of the cure but I think time played an important role as well. But what do I know. {don't answer that}
 
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