Cycling question

I have been dosing with stability and continuim after the tank ran with new live sand and live rock for a week. It seems to be the smoothest cycle I have had thus far, that could be because I have a much larger tank than the other times.
 
Sn4k33y3z;891746 wrote: Thanks! That answers my question. I do have a new skimmer, I just wasn't sure if running it would have any ill effects.

JDavid- thanks for the offer. That's very generous of you to offer.
no problem just let me know.
 
rdnelson99;891623 wrote: One more thing to consider. Say you supercharge your bacteria colony. You have to feed it to keep it that way right? So all that bacteria is converting ammonia to nitrite and the nitrite to nitrate. Now what, you have nitrate building up in your system that you have to export. That means more or larger water changes. Why get into that from the get go. It is hard enough keeping the nitrates low once you get the fish you want.

That's where the calcium acetate comes in Rich. The acetate provides the organic carbon for denitrification and leaves behind both calcium and alkalinity, in balanced proportions.

This may be difficult for some to understand, but it all works. It's the most elegant 'system' I've found in my many years in this hobby.
 
Sn4k33y3z;892287 wrote: Has anyone tried bio spira to cycle a tank?

I am re-booting my tank in a couple of weeks and I am going to try Bio Spira when I cycle my system. I just picked up a couple of bottles this afternoon, I will let you guys know how it goes.

Edit:
Sn4k33y3z;892343 wrote: Like a friend in the hobby just told me. We can either farm poop or farm additives.


Lol, well said!
 
JeffMuse;892382 said:
I am re-booting my tank in a couple of weeks and I am going to try Bio Spira when I cycle my system. I just picked up a couple of bottles this afternoon, I will let you guys know how it goes.

Petco carries it, but from what I understand it must be kept refridgerated. When I called to see if they had any "refridgerated Bio-Spira", they replied " we have the non-refridgerated kind". Let me know what you find out. I'm still not sold on it.
 
Sn4k33y3z;892287 wrote: Has anyone tried bio spira to cycle a tank?

It was better in the refrigerated formula. I've also used stability and Fritzzyme with good results.
 
Though all this may work, isn't there the simple elegance of just dropping a few small damsel , and lighting the fire. I had a yellow tail damsel for 15 years.
Why is time such a factor? How can Aerobic bacteria live in sealed bag? Seems hoekey
Getting freebies cheapies from members , you guys really got me verklempt. Microanimalia Variety is what's going to make a tank flourish.
Why wouldnt you run the skimmer.it sets up stability, get your game on using the skimmer It mitigates die off aka cycling. ph swing oxygenates Orp levels . Play with it. Get to know it. And they are just plain cool.
I ve had tanks since the 80's, I took a break for a couple years while I rebuilt my house for 5 long years.
I just set one up this year, I love my yellow tail and zebra pair.
I havent even come close to losing any thing from tank conditions.
It seems you need to get in he habit of husbandry , and weekly water changes is the only way to go.
It's cheaper heathier more engaging. Isn't this what you normally need to do with a new tank anyway.
I didn't even get a the extra test kits until 5 months. After 30 days, I didn't see any green or red dukee and started adding a few frags. Watched how they fair .. lighting placement circ ect.
I still dont test much. I tested nitrates until my nitrate reactor took hold. It climbed a little before I installed it. Some clear snot on the sand. It took four months for it to take hold. All the while do 15% weekly wc.
I mostly hate measuring and sticking my Hands in the tank. I do it for the feel good, if I get time.
They goal in this hobby is simplicity and stability and that's from s Tryree at the frag swag
Maybe your just a damsel hater, thats fair enough.
 
Ringo®;892389 wrote: It was better in the refrigerated formula. I've also used stability and Fritzzyme with good results.

I picked up a couple of bottles of the bio spira this afternoon to help with my upcoming cycle. I am still planning on taking it slow with the tank re-boot; however, I will be interested to see how quickly the amonia levels drop after adding the bio spira to the system.
 
Darren- I again appreciated you sharing your thoughts. I'm in no-way in any kind of hurry. Please, enlighten me some more. Why are Damsels a viable option for cycling (also why this specific breed)? I suppose I never even considered using a fish to start the cycle. The main reason just because I've understood it to be cruel... One things for sure, a stinky shrimp decaying isn't gonna keep me in the good graces with the wifey LOL. Chemicals appeal to me simply because I become the controlling factor. OK, I'm back now. I had to google the yiddish (verklempt) word. You lost me and apparently google when you used "Microanimalia Variety". Can you be more specific? Also, I'm not opposed to using the skimmer (it has to break in anyways). By going the Damsel route, I assume it would be critical to my success.

Edit: On another note. Aren't certain damsel fish highly aggressive?
 
My opinion is yes it is cruel to use a fish to cycle a tank and everything I have heard says damsels don't make good tank mates with a lot of other fish you will want to add.

If you are in that big of a hurry, there is another way that is near immediate, requires no ammonia, shrimp or chemicals. Use half live rock and half base rock. You will have a die off of some bacteria in the live rock in the process of transfer. That will create a small ammonia source but you will have a small colony of bacteria to consume it. In a weeks time you could then add a fish or maybe two. As long as you go slow adding fish you should never see a peak in the cycle.

Matter of fact, in the time it took for this thread to develop you could have had fish in the tank. :-)


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I am just curious as to when cycling a tank became so complicated? I was always under the impression that it was one of the easiest natural processes around....
 
BlueSpot;892511 wrote: I am just curious as to when cycling a tank became so complicated? I was always under the impression that it was one of the easiest natural processes around....

It got complicated when people lost their patients. Hehehehe


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Again, I'm in no hurry. I just want the "best practice" method and I really don't want to spend $100 on a chemical I'm barely gonna use once. Perhaps someone on the ARC had some extra lol
 
Sn4k33y3z;892532 wrote: Again, I'm in no hurry. I just want the "best practice" method and I really don't want to spend $100 on a chemical I'm barely gonna use once. Perhaps someone on the ARC had some extra lol

If you are in no hurry and want cheapest with the least side affects just put a pinch or two of fish food in and wait. Or, come on over and I will give you some pure ammonia and you can add a few drops here and there. Just my opinion but that is what I did and will do again.


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rdnelson99;892514 wrote: It got complicated when people lost their patients. Hehehehe


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^^^^ THIS!
I have many years in this hobby. I have been out of it for about 4 and there is a lot available now that wasn't then. However, I just set up my 90 gal the old school way with absolutely no problems. This was my process:
Used partially cured live rock, salt mix, and water. I used live sand because it was on clearance for less than non-live. I usually use non-live. Stacked my rock, added saltwater, turned on the pump and skimmer and let it run. I tested the water after two days and had ammonia but no nitrites. After 2 more days, had ammonia and nitrites. 2 more days, no ammonia and high nitrites, some nitrates. 2 more days and nitrites were gone. I ran the skimmer the entire time and got A LOT out of the water from the rock. The next day I added fish. Keep in mind there were a lot of water changes in this process and I put a couple of small fish in for starters but this has always worked every time I set up a tank for me or someone else. I emphasize patience, not additives. Within a month or so, I had plenty of fish and coral living large just by taking the time to let it happen naturally.
There are almost as many ways to make it happen as there are opinions on what's the best. Having done this for 20 years and having lost tons of $ with impatience, I think any way that accomplishes the goal without breaking the bank is gonna work just fine.
 
Rich looks like that's the plan. Would you do both the fish food and ammonia?

Reef reaper- I feel this is an area where simplicity makes the most sense. I'm a rookie to the hobby and I feel like the baby steps are just as important. This will give me a chance to use my test kits and get familiar with those reagents.
 
I see no need to do both. It isn't like a BBQ where you have burgers for the adults and hot dogs for the kids. :-)

You have one goal. Building the bacterial colonies. All you need for that is ammonia. The more pure that ammonia source is the better. That is why I used the Ace Janitorial Strength.

If you go that route, try to get it up to 4ppm. As it starts to drop add a bit more until you see nitrites and nitrates. Once you see nitrates you are getting close. You should be ready for fish once you get to the point where it can take 4ppm ammonia and in 24 hours reduce it and the nitrites to 0. Once that happens, do water changes until you get the nitrate as close to 0 as you can and you are good to add a fish or two. Wait a couple of weeks between fish additions to give the bacteria time to catch up to the increased bio load.


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One other thing. It only takes a little ammonia. When I did my 35 gal I used a cap full and that was way too much. Start with a couple drops and work your way up to 4ppm.


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