DIY LED Build
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If you want to build a dimming system cheap, I am pretty sure you could rig something up with a a timer, and a servo to turn the potentiometer knob. I used to race rc cars and I am pretty sure I could rig something up using a steering servo from one.
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I was planning on just using an apex for the sunrise/sunset effect.
I already have an RKL but I still opted to build a dedicated LED controller vs adding their little module because DIY offered so much more as far as customization. I did the Arduino based 'Typhon' which was open sourced by a guy over on reef central. It's working like a charm. It was right around $60 in parts including the USB breakout board for flashing it.
I've even hacked the code to add in moon phase calculation to use on a spare channel for eventually driving my LED moonlights. I haven't actually hooked them up to it yet as I still need to measure voltages out of the current moonlight controller to see if I need to set some hard limits on the output. After that I'm going to code in a cloud/storm mode for the main lights to have that extra geek factor for guests.
Even if you don't want all the bells and whistles, $60 for a controller that'll do custom fade up and down is a steal compared to commercial offerings.
I've even hacked the code to add in moon phase calculation to use on a spare channel for eventually driving my LED moonlights. I haven't actually hooked them up to it yet as I still need to measure voltages out of the current moonlight controller to see if I need to set some hard limits on the output. After that I'm going to code in a cloud/storm mode for the main lights to have that extra geek factor for guests.
Even if you don't want all the bells and whistles, $60 for a controller that'll do custom fade up and down is a steal compared to commercial offerings.
Thewarbrd: you paid a total of $60 for everything needed or sunrise/sunset? I thought the arduino was $250ish?
Could you PM or post what I need to know to replicate what you've done?
Vanished: the Apex is roughly $400 from what I've seen so I don't think I want to drop that kind of cash
Could you PM or post what I need to know to replicate what you've done?
Vanished: the Apex is roughly $400 from what I've seen so I don't think I want to drop that kind of cash
Arduino is a hardware/software platform, it can be as simple or as complex as you want. There are full blown arduino based controllers people have developed that'll do just about everything something like a reefkeeper or apex will do, then there's purpose built things like the one I copied which only do a specific function. Note, mines different than the one roundman linked to.
I posted the detailed info over in my build thread so as not to hijack here anymore than I already have:
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It looks like I am going to end up going with 24 meanwell ELN-48D drivers. I want to be able to dim the lights using an apex, and currently none of the higher powered drivers offer 1-10v dimming (with the exception of the thomas research drivers that are currently not available). The wireing will be a bit more of a mess to clean up, but on the bright side.... if I have a short, I probably wont die 48v as opposed to 200v
How many watts for each driver? Can't you get higher wattage ones and use fewer?
Edit: Like the HLG-120B? It does 0-10v and PWM dimming
Edit: Like the HLG-120B? It does 0-10v and PWM dimming
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I didnt know that the HLG series came in 0-10v dimmable. Is the IP-67 (type B) of the HLG series 0-10v dimmable? if so I would rather get those. Also would I need the "High Efficiency Wide Input Single Output With PFC Switching Power Supply" or the "High Efficiency Single Output With PFC Switching Power Supply". Whats the difference?
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Ok, after reading up some more on the hlg drivers I came up with what I believe will work. You guys can check my conclusions on this before I order them. I am looking at the following
2 HLG-185H 54v(B) each running 3 parallel strings of 16 xp-g cool white @ up to 1150mA
2 HLG-120H 48v(B) each running 3 parallel strings of 12 xp-e royal blue @ up to 833mA
2 HLG-120H 48v(B) each running 3 parallel strings of 12 xp-e blue @ up to 833mA
I like being able to turn up the xp-g leds up to 1A, that way I can turn up the intensity on them for a few hours for highnoon effect instead of having to use leds on a seperate channel.
Does anyone see any flaw in this setup?
If this will work, it will save me around $100 over going with 24 ELN drivers.
2 HLG-185H 54v(B) each running 3 parallel strings of 16 xp-g cool white @ up to 1150mA
2 HLG-120H 48v(B) each running 3 parallel strings of 12 xp-e royal blue @ up to 833mA
2 HLG-120H 48v(B) each running 3 parallel strings of 12 xp-e blue @ up to 833mA
I like being able to turn up the xp-g leds up to 1A, that way I can turn up the intensity on them for a few hours for highnoon effect instead of having to use leds on a seperate channel.
Does anyone see any flaw in this setup?
If this will work, it will save me around $100 over going with 24 ELN drivers.
Vanished: I was reading another thread on reefcentral and a guy there built an LED light that got him 250 par at the sandbed (18") using only 36 LED's on a 75g... are we using too many LED's? (I know there is no such thing) but why use 180 LED's when you can get away with much less. 36 of the $5 3w ones not the $10 new ones
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I am using 240 for a few reasons. I could probably get away with less leds but I would also have to raise them higher above the waterline to get the same coverage, or use wider optics. Either way I would have to increase the current to achieve the same par. More current results in more heat to deal with and shortened led life. I wanted to be able to get high par numbers as well as get good coverage and run the leds at a fairly low current for the majority of the day. The reasoning for going with exactly 240 leds was that I had 180 on order but then i wanted to change the ratios alittle so i order 36 more white, 12 more blue, and 12 more royal blue. This gave me a ratio of 40% cool white, 30% blue, 30% royal blue. I know that i could have uesd far less leds (144 was probably sufficient) but since I am new to saltwater, I wanted to have alot of adjustability. I am still unsure what color temperature I will Want to go with, having so many leds will let me have alot of adjustability without having to drive any of the leds too hard.
Edit: Also I forgot to add. I have not seem the RC build using 36 leds. 250 par at the sand bed is probably not unrealistic if he is using optics or running the leds at a higher than average current. If he is using optics with so few leds I would be worried about dark spots.
Edit: Also I forgot to add. I have not seem the RC build using 36 leds. 250 par at the sand bed is probably not unrealistic if he is using optics or running the leds at a higher than average current. If he is using optics with so few leds I would be worried about dark spots.
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Got my drivers ordered today. I will be running
2 HLG-185H 54v(B) each running 3 parallel strings of 16 xp-g cool white @ up to 1150mA
2 HLG-120H 48v(B) each running 3 parallel strings of 12 xp-e royal blue @ up to 833mA
2 HLG-120H 48v(B) each running 3 parallel strings of 12 xp-e blue @ up to 833mA
2 HLG-185H 54v(B) each running 3 parallel strings of 16 xp-g cool white @ up to 1150mA
2 HLG-120H 48v(B) each running 3 parallel strings of 12 xp-e royal blue @ up to 833mA
2 HLG-120H 48v(B) each running 3 parallel strings of 12 xp-e blue @ up to 833mA
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Yes,
The forward voltage of the xp-g led is 3.3 @ 1000mA
This being said 16x3.3v = 52.8v, meaning that the driver is powerful to run a string of 13 at 3.3v
The HLG-185H driver has a rated output current of 3.45A
So 3.45A/3 strings of leds = 1150mA
That means I can run 3 strings of 16 leds (48 leds total) no problem @ up to 1000mA
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1952442">http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1952442</a>
[IMG]http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1987110&highlight=diy+led+controller">http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1987110&highlight=diy+led+controller</a>
these are the thread's I have been using for reference, very helpful. He doesn't have any dark spots
[IMG]http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1987110&highlight=diy+led+controller">http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1987110&highlight=diy+led+controller</a>
these are the thread's I have been using for reference, very helpful. He doesn't have any dark spots
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