DIY radion pro

[rodasphoto]

I plan to make a diy led light with the following leds:
• WHITE: 8 Cree XT-E Cool White LEDs run at 5W each
• YELLOW: 2 Osram Oslon SSL Yellow at 3 W each (590nm)
• BLUE: 8 Cree XP-E Blue LEDs run at 3W each (468nm)
• ROYAL BLUE: 8 Cree XT-E Royal Blue LEDs run at 5W each (442nm)
• GREEN: 4 Cree XP-E Green LEDs run at 3W each (520nm)
• RED: 4 Osram Oslon SSL Hyper Red LEDs run at 3W each (660nm)
• INDIGO: 4 SemiLEDs UV at 2.5W each (415nm)
• ULTRAVIOLET: 4 SemiLEDs UV at 2.5W each (405nm)
I currently have 2 Meanwell eln-60-48P which I was thinking of using on the white and royal blue or the white and blue and royal blue. I would like it to fully adjustable and was wondering what drivers you all recommend for the rest of the leds?

 

[rodasphoto]

So with a little reasearch I found that I need to run a minimum of 5-8 and would like to have 6 channels total. Now I need to figure out which chips I can tie together so they get adjusted at the same time.

 

[brisco15]

Why are the uv at 2.5 ?following your thread and am learning so pardon the question. Can't wait to see this running. May pick your brain some.

 

[rodasphoto]

Brisco15;849684 wrote: Why are the uv at 2.5 ?following your thread and am learning so pardon the question. Can't wait to see this running. May pick your brain some.

I just copied what the radio pros are using. I have yet to source the uv chips I want to go with. I have seen from LGB has 3W chips and Rapid does not list what they are rated at. The chips may change as I continue to research and hear people's opinions. I may trade some cool whites for warm whites. Time will tell. But a guestimate for LEDs are ~$90. What I really need is to find a controller that can accomodate 6 channels and has programmable features such as thunderstorm, change of season, can operate my moonlights, etc. that is also compatible with PWM.

 

[brisco15]

Gotcha thanks for clarifying for me. I'm baffled nobody is speaking up on your project. I wish I had knowledge to lend but ill be following. Really think this is the route ill go after I move.

 

[johniii]

Rodasphoto;849828 wrote: I just copied what the radio pros are using. I have yet to source the uv chips I want to go with. I have seen from LGB has 3W chips and Rapid does not list what they are rated at. The chips may change as I continue to research and hear people's opinions. I may trade some cool whites for warm whites. Time will tell. But a guestimate for LEDs are ~$90. What I really need is to find a controller that can accomodate 6 channels and has programmable features such as thunderstorm, change of season, can operate my moonlights, etc. that is also compatible with PWM.

Arduino can handle 6 channels pwm. No problem

 

[jbadd99]

Check out my Full Spectrum Arduino Project. Good links there too.

 

[rodasphoto]

So I think I may have found the controller I will go with

 

[chrishet]

I've got all my parts except the real time clock...as soon as I get this I will be loading code and will let ya know how well it works...I've seen enough evidence that it will be fine....good luck...

 

[bulkrate]

Careful on the UV LEDs... true UV (~390nm) hasn't been shown to significantly benefit coral growth or color development and can damage tissue at the wattage in play here. Most commercial full-spectrum builds go with 410-430 "Hyper Violets" (marketing term only) which DO provide significant fluorescence "pop" and are photosynthetically useful to corals. And they're usually underdriven to prevent bleaching events (violet "looks" a lot dimmer to our eyes than it really is) + they tend to run a little hotter than other commonly used LEDs.

A tidbit as well, based on personal experience - just because an LED's marked to output at 410nm doesn't mean that it can't sideband a bit lower or up. My first foray into full-spectrum aquarium lighting resulted in UV damage to the acrylic optics in my fixture... the ones mounted over the violet emitters turned noticably brown/yellow over a couple months of operation.

 

[rodasphoto]

Bulkrate I appreciate your input on the UV.

The ones I am getting are what you suggest 410-420nm from rapidled. Here is the layout I plan to use.

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I am seriously considering the reef angel b/c of the rave reviews I have read, and it has some neat features such as the ability to have storms and mimic the amount of "sunlight" based on lat/long.

The thing that has me is where to purchase the heatsink. Because to the leds to fit I need a 12" heatsink but rapided only has 10" or 20". So I will probably have to spring for the 20".
The other is making this 5 channels and deciding what to tie together to make 5 channels and finding the appropriate PWM drivers.
Any suggestions?

Edit: <img src="

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Edit:

 

[jbadd99]

Seriously, take a look at my thread. And GiulianoM's. They will give you some great ideas... especially your heat sink.

I ordered two from HeatSinkUSA. I was able to choose my own length and they're 8.5 inches wide if I recall correctly. Looks perfect for your build.

 

[rodasphoto]

jbadd99;850881 wrote: Seriously, take a look at my thread. And GiulianoM's. They will give you some great ideas... especially your heat sink.

I ordered two from HeatSinkUSA. I was able to choose my own length and they're 8.5 inches wide if I recall correctly. Looks perfect for your build.

I looked the threads you recommended and continue to reference them as I continue on my build. I just purchased the leds from Rapidled. I swap in another CW for the yellow, and did 4 of their ultra violets instead of 2 UV and 2 Indigo. As more funds become available I am going to use the drivers you are using LDD-1000, 700, & 350 for my application.

 

[rodasphoto]

I am waiting on my drivers and power supply to come in spometime next week. I just got the Reef Angel Plus I ordered. It came quick. Ordered Monday from California and is here today. I will post unboxing pics and pics of the fixture I just finished building as soon as I can.

 

[rodasphoto]

I just got the drivers, power supply, and purchased boards from JBadd99. I ordered some 2 pin connectors for the boards which should arrive sometime next week.

Edit: On the first board I plan to put the blue, cool whites, green, and royal blue driving them at 1000 mA. Then on the next board I am going to put the red, and near UV driving them at 700 ma.

 

[jbadd99]

Did you buy the LEDs from LGB? If so careful at the amperage you drive then at.

Also, if you bought the OCW see my thread about wiring the LEDs up for separate channel use.

 

[rodasphoto]

jbadd99;863143 wrote: Did you buy the LEDs from LGB? If so careful at the amperage you drive then at.

Also, if you bought the OCW see my thread about wiring the LEDs up for separate channel use.

I purchased the LED chips from Rapidled according to their site the RB & CW max 1500 mA, Blue & Green 1000 mA, Red and near UV 700 mA.

I saw OCW but did not purchase them. Maybe in another build I will use 3 chips on 1 die.

Edit: A picture of the heatsink with some lit LEDs

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Edit: A pic of the power supply and drivers

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A close up of PCB and drivers

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A pic of the power supply inputs

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A pic of how I plan to wire the wired versions of the LDD-700. The pin version are on back order.

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[rodasphoto]

On the power supply there is a positive in (L), negative (n), and then chassis ground. Should I use a 3 prong plug using white for L, black for (N), and green for ground?

Also for the wired drivers does that look correct interms of how it should be soldered in? I am going to cut the wires much shorter, btw.

 

[jbadd99]

The three prong should have a diagram on it (assuming you bought one like I did - 6' from HD. pre stripped for $9). Follow the diagram and you'll be fine. Some are different than others

As for the driver wiring, looks good.

 

[rodasphoto]

jbadd99;863222 wrote: The three prong should have a diagram on it (assuming you bought one like I did - 6' from HD. pre stripped for $9). Follow the diagram and you'll be fine. Some are different than others

As for the driver wiring, looks good.

Awesome. Many thanks.