Dmitri's 1000 gal DT journey!

[Dmitri]

Lesson learned here. I’m going to double up on my tank equipment redundancy.
Everything seems to be a okay, yesterday I came home and figured out what caused the failure of power bar.
I had connected power bar to a new smart plug before my trip, to verify wattage. Well silly me forgot to program smart plug to stay on as default setting. When power tripped that put it to sleep.
btw I did use seachem alk buffer yesterday (8 table spoons) it raised alkalinity by .3dkh but now it back down to 7.7
Both calcium reactors been running over night, tank is hungry. I’ll use 8 more table spoons

Still waiting on lights to come on to see how many corals were lost.

 

[ichthyoid]

That’s great to hear Dmitri!

 

[Cook]

What's the news on your corals?

 

[Dmitri]

What's the news on your corals?

Everything seems to be doing well. Since alk dropped I’m keeping stable between 8.1 - 8.2
I got lucky I guess, it seems I was out just enough days not to cause critical damage.
ATO also had about 1/2 of a day left of water so there goes that.

 

[Dmitri]

I found an interesting pattern in orp reading:
In the morning 9am two auto feeders turn on, between next two hours orp will drop 20 units. Lights still off, lights comes on 12pm-12am

At 11am it seem to be the lowest reading point, it goes up from there all the way to any where from 4pm to 6-7pm (20units) that’s when I would feed fish heavy (4 nori sheets)
ORP drops from that point about 20 units again to the lowest reading which usually at 8pm

it goes up from there all the way to next morning 9am where it peaks and drops to repeat the cycle.

over all it looks like orp would rise for about 15hrs (night time) and drops for about 3 hrs then raises for about 7-8 hrs then drops for about 1-2hrs

Typically 20 units in drop

I’m not sure what it means exactly but seems that feeding definitely consistent with drop in the reading.

I guess it’s good to go by this pattern and if something unusual will happen it may show up in the reading

 

[smoothie]

Great job! That powder blue looks too happy!

 

[Dmitri]

Great job! That powder blue looks too happy!

Ya my powder is super happy, had him for little over 2 years now. I was thinking of adding 2-3 more but decided to go different rout. Thanks for tagging along!

 

[Dmitri]

Yearly diy reef chili food is made!
It’s so messed and the smell… ahhh glad it’s only once a year…
I’ve about 12bags out of it.
now to vent the air in the basement!

 

[Dmitri]

So something crazy happened to me today. I was doing big water change and drained sump for that. When I started filling it back up, first baffle that supports socks collapsed under water pressure. Luckily it still hold water…

gonna have to figure out how to fix it, not sure yet. I’ve reach out for some support, hopefully get some help soon

 

[Adam]

So something crazy happened to me today. I was doing big water change and drained sump for that. When I started filling it back up, first baffle that supports socks collapsed under water pressure. Luckily it still hold water…

gonna have to figure out how to fix it, not sure yet. I’ve reach out for some support, hopefully get some help soon

That repair doesn't look fun. I'd talk to @skriz to see if it can be done in place. My guess is that it's possible but going to be very labor intensive. Any spot that is going to need glue has to be clean. It would be much easier to pull the sump out of service and get it outside for cleaning. If that we're done you might as well drive it over to MRC so it can be worked on in their shop where they have all the equipment and no travel time for their employee(s). If you bring it to them cleaned and dry I'd think it'd be the least expensive to fix.

I have a 150 gallon stock trough you can used for a temp sump while that one is repaired. It's going to need to be out of service for a couple days or more I'd think. Once the repair is done everything is going to need to be cured before you put water in it.

We could meet up and swap the trough and my ATS too

 

[Dmitri]

That repair doesn't look fun. I'd talk to @skriz to see if it can be done in place. My guess is that it's possible but going to be very labor intensive. Any spot that is going to need glue has to be clean. It would be much easier to pull the sump out of service and get it outside for cleaning. If that we're done you might as well drive it over to MRC so it can be worked on in their shop where they have all the equipment and no travel time for their employee(s). If you bring it to them cleaned and dry I'd think it'd be the least expensive to fix.

I have a 150 gallon stock trough you can used for a temp sump while that one is repaired. It's going to need to be out of service for a couple days or more I'd think. Once the repair is done everything is going to need to be cured before you put water in it.

We could meet up and swap the trough and my ATS too

Ya I don’t think moving sump would be an option.
I’m planning to use pvc pipe and hammer between baffles to space them out how it was. Once it’s in original location, even if it leaks, I should be able to use socks again. If this works, I may even leave those pipes between baffle in that place for that extra support
Theoretically this should work, also luckily I had 3” diameter pvc cylinder that is long enough to use as a force for pvc pipe, as I’m slowly pushing it in

 

[Adam]

Ya I don’t think moving sump would be an option.
I’m planning to use pvc pipe and hammer between baffles to space them out how it was. Once it’s in original location, even if it leaks, I should be able to use socks again. If this works, I may even leave those pipes between baffle in that place for that extra support
Theoretically this should work, also luckily I had 3” diameter pvc cylinder that is long enough to use as a force for pvc pipe, as I’m slowly pushing it in

When water seeps into the pipe that's pressed onto the PVC walls on both sides it will go stagnant, which means hydrogen sulfide.
You're going to have to drill a lot of holes in the pipe to allow the water to flow through it.

Then all the holes will create a massive detritus trap.

In essence, this sounds like it could turn horrible on you.

 

[Dmitri]

Here is what I’m working with

 

[Dmitri]

I’ve decided to turn one pump off and let water fill up the sump so I don’t fight against all that water pressure

 

[Steve Burton]

When water seeps into the pipe that's pressed onto the PVC walls on both sides it will go stagnant, which means hydrogen sulfide.
You're going to have to drill a lot of holes in the pipe to allow the water to flow through it.

Then all the holes will create a massive detritus trap.

In essence, this sounds like it could turn horrible on you.

Possible solution for that is to split the pvc lengthwise and use with the curved side up, seems like it should still be strong enough for the purpose.

 

[Adam]

Possible solution for that is to split the pvc lengthwise and use with the curved side up, seems like it should still be strong enough for the purpose.

^That^ right there is a great idea and solution!
And you get two spacers per piece to boot.

 

[Dmitri]

So far I’ve got two pipes down one one side. each side is about 8” wide, little more but I’m give some buffer space

 

[Dmitri]

Had to make a whole bunch of cuts, may need some more

 

[Dmitri]

Well I got it in one place now


Gonna have to figure out about these pipe, make some holes in them or something …

 

[Dmitri]

Back In Business!