Does this plumbing diagram seem ok?

[john m_ lundberg]

Some of you know I have been searching for a diagram to follow for my 125 that is just waiting to be assembled...I found this diagram on a website...wanted to see what you all thought...

>http://www.3reef.com/forums/attachments/new-hobby/17575d1247798840-new-150gal-build-equipment-advice-plumbing.jpg</a>

 

[grouper therapy]

I would not feed a chiller from the overflow line .I would feed it from my return pump. If that is the configuration of your sump then i would move the refugium to the left and feed it with part of the overflow and put the return in the center.

 

[jt955]

grouper therapy;389592 wrote: i would not feed a chiller from the overflow line .i would feed it from my return pump. If that is the configuration of your sump then i would move the refugium to the left and feed it with part of the overflow and put the return in the center.

+1

 

[dakota9]

Seems alil overly complicated, but reefers often like that

 

[john m_ lundberg]

grouper therapy;389592 wrote: I would not feed a chiller from the overflow line .I would feed it from my return pump. If that is the configuration of your sump then i would move the refugium to the left and feed it with part of the overflow and put the return in the center.

Its not mine yet. Since I'm new to the large tanks, and I am visual person, this has kind of put things in place visually.

As far as the chiller...is one really needed for a 125?

 

[jt955]

John M. Lundberg;389608 wrote: Its not mine yet. Since I'm new to the large tanks, and I am visual person, this has kind of put things in place visually.

As far as the chiller...is one really needed for a 125?

that will depend on your temp, if its stable within an acceptable range no, if it runs hot fans will probably do it, but may not and you might need a chiller.

 

[grouper therapy]

It does not matter if it is the return or not if the pump shuts down. Some chillers have an enternal flow switch which senses slow or no water flow. Those that don't should have a external flow switch installed.. The reason I would not use the overflow for feeding the chiller is if it were to become obstructed it would flood your tank. A chiller barrel increases that risk.

 

[delloman]

+1 to the people above i would put the manifold on the return pump not the drain

 

[acroholic]

If your sump is only servicing the one tank, then I would plumb a chiller between the return pump and the tank return.

Before I added a second tank to my system, I had a single tank/single sump setup. I had an external return pump sending water to two return pipes (AGA 210). One of the return lines went thru a 1/4 HP chiller and back to the tank. You'd need ball valves on the two returns to balance out the flow, because a chiller adds considerable head to a line, but it worked quite well.

I would not gravity feed a chiller.

If you ever change your system and add another tank to the same sump as your other tank (I did this), then I would feed the chiller from a dedicated pump and return the water to the return section of the sump. You'd get more even distribution of the chilled water to both tanks that way.

 

[john m_ lundberg]

Acroholic;389647 wrote:
If you ever change your system and add another tank to the same sump as your other tank (I did this), then I would feed the chiller from a dedicated pump and return the water to the return section of the sump. You'd get more even distribution of the chilled water to both tanks that way.

Is this something that I need to plan for now, or can I go with what you are saying now and adjust things later? Is that what you had to do?

 

[acroholic]

John M. Lundberg;389657 wrote: Is this something that I need to plan for now, or can I go with what you are saying now and adjust things later? Is that what you had to do?

No need to plan for it now, unless you are certain you are going to do it. You really don't know at this point if you even need a chiller. What you might do is determine a position for a chiller if you ever need one....meaning figure out and reserve some real estate for the placement of one. So many times we just place stuff where it is convenient at that moment.

Also, plumbing changes are a lot easier if you use vinyl tubing (IMO) for your returns, etc. Don't know if you like hard plumbed tanks or not, but I don't. Basically, with a tubing plumbed system if you need to change something, all you do is cut some vinyl and replace with a new piece after you do your changes.

I would set up your system without a chiller first, unless you are absolutely sure you'll need one, but keep in mind where it would go if you do decide to add it later. That is the way mine went: I didn't use a chiller at first with just 250 watt halides, then I went to 3 x 400 watt halides and had to add a 1/4 horse chiller, then I added a second tank with another 400 watt halide, followed by a replacing my 1/4 HP chiller with a 1/2 HP chiller. More equipment, higher wattage lights=more heat.

 

[acroholic]

AndyMan;389650 wrote: Thats the way I have mine plumbed, works great

You know, one thing that always bothered me about his setup is if you simply run a dedicated pump for the chiller, and you are drawing from and returning to the return area of the sump, you basically recirculate some already cooled water back into the chiller.

I had to install a new bulkhead in the return section of my sump for the external chiller pump, and couldn't do it in the intake section due to space considerations, but here is what I did:

The pics below are of my external return pump and my dedicated external chiller pump. Both draw from the return section. What I did was I installed a 1" PVC Tee on the wet side of the return bulkhead with a threaded 3/4" barb on the side, then just attached the return tube from the chiller to that. All the chilled water goes into the return pump, and none gets recirculated thru the chiller. There is an intake strainer on the open end of the Tee.
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[john m_ lundberg]

Acroholic;389663 wrote: No need to plan for it now, unless you are certain you are going to do it. You really don't know at this point if you even need a chiller. What you might do is determine a position for a chiller if you ever need one....meaning figure out and reserve some real estate for the placement of one. So many times we just place stuff where it is convenient at that moment.

Also, plumbing changes are a lot easier if you use vinyl tubing (IMO) for your returns, etc. Don't know if you like hard plumbed tanks or not, but I don't. Basically, with a tubing plumbed system if you need to change something, all you do is cut some vinyl and replace with a new piece after you do your changes.

I would set up your system without a chiller first, unless you are absolutely sure you'll need one, but keep in mind where it would go if you do decide to add it later. That is the way mine went: I didn't use a chiller at first with just 250 watt halides, then I went to 3 x 400 watt halides and had to add a 1/4 horse chiller, then I added a second tank with another 400 watt halide, followed by a replacing my 1/4 HP chiller with a 1/2 HP chiller. More equipment, higher wattage lights=more heat.

I wish I could go vinyl, but when i got the tank, the plumbing was already built in hard. They did a really good job, so all I have to do is add the pumps and the skimmer...maybe a chiller...

Like the pics btw...very clean looking and I like that.

 

[lilrobb]

Thanks Dave,

you just solved one of the headaches I had as far as returning already cooled water to the chiller goes.
Nice idea!

Robb

PS: Pic received - looks happier in your tank for sure!

 

[rbredding]

more than enough advice here already...

scrap that setup and come up with something that incorporates what these guys are referencing...

 

[john m_ lundberg]

Rbredding;389714 wrote: more than enough advice here already...

scrap that setup and come up with something that incorporates what these guys are referencing...

That is exactly why I posted that here! I knew I would get some top notch advice...:yay: