Doing a Water Change
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skriz
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You probably want to shut down the pumps.
Add water wherever it is easier. Where are you syphoning from? If you syphon from the sump, it's a good time to scoop out all the crap that may have setteled in the sump and clean out the skimmer.
If your syphoning from the display, you can scoop out the crap that may have settled in the dead spots. Or you can just syphon from the surface.
Add water wherever it is easier. Where are you syphoning from? If you syphon from the sump, it's a good time to scoop out all the crap that may have setteled in the sump and clean out the skimmer.
If your syphoning from the display, you can scoop out the crap that may have settled in the dead spots. Or you can just syphon from the surface.
well ive never changed water in anything bigger than my 30 (i guess i changed my 125 but that was FW so a bit diff) but yeah....i personally shut off everything, especially your return pump. Also, pumps/ PH's thats come out of the water because of the drop in your water level.
Of course, do the wc as fast as possible and try not leave any corals out of the water for too, too long.
I know some people with big tanks just do a wc in their sump and not in the main display. If thats the case, you can leave all the PH's and stuff on and if your heater is in your display you leave that on too and that way time doesnt really become a factor.
good luck.
Of course, do the wc as fast as possible and try not leave any corals out of the water for too, too long.
I know some people with big tanks just do a wc in their sump and not in the main display. If thats the case, you can leave all the PH's and stuff on and if your heater is in your display you leave that on too and that way time doesnt really become a factor.
good luck.
I usually pump the water out of the sump with a power head and then pump the new water back in with the powerhead.. Takes about 20minutes to change out 20 gallons of water, using the powerhead means less of a chance of a watery mess..I leave everything running, the pump might run dry for a few minutes but it hasn't done any damage to it yet.. Or you can kill the return so you don't get a million airbubbles in the DT.
ooooh...i dont know about that...sounds risky to me. may not have done damage yet but i imagine it probably will eventually. then again, a dry pump is usually an overheating issue so if it doesn't overheat and you get water back through it in time you should be good...but i just wouldn't risk it.
Its a matter of 5 minutes, and I should have been more clear... Not completly dry.. Down enough where its still getting water, but sucking air and pouring bubbles in the tank.. Not bone dry..lol
I'm learning there's more art than science to this hobby.
I think I'll try shutting everything down.
Probably remove some water from the sump and some from the DT -- in order to clean both with the siphon hose -- I know this first change will take longer since I'll be learning a new process.
Not sure yet just where to return the water -- I expect to get millions of tiny bubbles in the DT -- I was having that problem for awhile when I had my ATO hose dumping right into the inlet for the return pump.
I think I'll try shutting everything down.
Probably remove some water from the sump and some from the DT -- in order to clean both with the siphon hose -- I know this first change will take longer since I'll be learning a new process.
Not sure yet just where to return the water -- I expect to get millions of tiny bubbles in the DT -- I was having that problem for awhile when I had my ATO hose dumping right into the inlet for the return pump.
Add it back into the sump on the far side where the water comes in, that way it will minimize the bubbles
I aways returned the water to the sump. I felt more comfortable giving a little time to mix with old water before it hits the DT. It does take more time and effort though.
Be sure to check your water before you add it, especially if you buy it at the LFS. PH, salinity, and alkalinity should be close to the old water.
Be sure to check your water before you add it, especially if you buy it at the LFS. PH, salinity, and alkalinity should be close to the old water.
I usually add it whereever I took it from...mostly the sump. If I pulled water from the DT to vaccum the low spots, then I add it back to the DT in front of one of the PH's so it gets distributed quickly. (Stick a piece of masking tape on the tank to mark the water level before starting so you know where to fill it back up to..)
