Feel the power: Tested new 400W setup on my 29 gal

derek_s

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I decided tonight to test my new reflux 400W 12k MH on my 29 gal tank. It is mounted in a coralvue reflector and powered by a coralvue dimmable ballast. Here it is full blast:

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The bulb is 18" from the water.

I'm wondering, should I just leave this one up, or put my 250W back? This one is dimmable, so I'm thinking of leaving it at about 1/2 power for a few days to just monitor it.
 
Looking good. Now I am rethinking about just going with a 250 over my 29g.
 
Haha, well, the light is actually for my 92 gal. I just wanted to see what it would do over the 29 for a couple days/weeks. I just have to watch the heat...
 
LiveRock27;157474 wrote: How is the heat?

Freakin hot at full blast. The black rim plastic gets super hot. I will not be able to run it full throttle.
 
LiveRock27;157468 wrote: Looking good. Now I am rethinking about just going with a 250 over my 29g.

Is it a cube? I think 250 over a cube would be good. Mines a long, so I would (in hind-sight) rather had 2 175s or so for better dispersion. I had a little too much of a spotlight effect for my taste.
 
No, it is Jeff's old system. Right now it has T5s over it, but I am thinking about replacing half of them for 1 250w w/a 14k Phoenix.
 
If you followed the thread over on RC about these reflectors you'll know what they are capable of. At 18" above water you should see very little heat raise in your tank. And still at that height you'll be getting close to 400PAR at the bottom of your tank. If I ever decide to redo my setup, those are the bulbs/ballast combo I'm going to go with.
 
Yeah, I read your post here that I think you borrowed from RC. I had already considered them because of reeefjunkies recommendation, but your post made up my mind on trying it. The color from the reeflux 12k is insane. I am very happy, and almost wanted to call into work sick just so I could sit and look at it.
 
corvettecris;157477 wrote: Freakin hot at full blast. The black rim plastic gets super hot. I will not be able to run it full throttle.

you can't dim MH??? :unsure:
 
It's a dimmable ballast. It actually has a knob to vary the output.! I dunno fully how it works, but at it's lowest setting it looks alot like my 250W, and at it's highest, a 400W.

But, as far as how it dims, I'm not sure.
 
corvettecris;157663 wrote: It's a dimmable ballast. It actually has a knob to vary the output.! I dunno fully how it works, but at it's lowest setting it looks alot like my 250W, and at it's highest, a 400W.

But, as far as how it dims, I'm not sure.

who's the ballast manufacturer. every bit of my research shows that dimming MH bulbs will compensate longevity because the bulb cannot sustain a consistent arc. if icecap doesn't offer it... who does?? :eek:

how long have you been using it?? can the club keep track of the performance numbers on dimmable MH?? i know i'm not the only person here that cares...
 
dawgdude;157683 wrote: http://www.reefspecialty.com/product_info.php?cPath=14_26&products_id=209">http://www.reefspecialty.com/product_info.php?cPath=14_26&products_id=209</a>

Its an extra 10 bucks for the dimmable which I say is pretty worth it.[/QUOTE]

no, no, no... i know people have tried the technology but it's been proven tested unreliable. this is the reason why everyone doesn't use a programmed 1000W set up to replicate sunrise/sunset...

maybe the word everyone is an understatement but the point is, no one would bother with 70-175W applications...
 
dawgdude;157695 wrote: The way I look at it is this:

Lets say I buy two and put them over my 90. I crank them up all the way and have some horrible heat issues. Then I crank them down half way (which should be around 325w) and I am still getting more par than I would with my 250s and a common fan can take care of all the cooling. Lets also say I have to replace my bulbs after 6 months and not 12. In the amount of money I have saved in cooling costs and electrical costs since I assume it uses less wattage when its turned down will be more than the price of one bulb I would say. My power bill DROPPED by about 40-50 bucks a month when I took my chiller offline because it was running constantly and was heating up the room so the AC had to compete.

without research, how can we know when or if we have to replace the bulbs at 6 month increments? I would LOVE to see someone check weekly/monthly PAR measurements of this set up at 100%/50%.

bulb longevity is the issue. heat issue can be resolved rather easily by fans alone. if dimming forces the hobbyist to replace the bulbs every 3 months instead of 6, then do the pros outweigh the cons?

i mean, this is really new to me. if someone could shed some light on dimmable MH technology, i'd really appreciate it.
 
dawgdude;157706 wrote: Haha ok well whatever I say you will just half that and say what if so I give. From what I have heard it is only a marginal decrease in longevity because the threshold of 35% dimming is still able to sustain a substantial enough arc. Heck I ran a 400w bulb in a 250 fixture for 8 months and then moved it over to a 400w ballast with another 400w identical except with a new bulb and the used 400w looked the exact same to all of us who were working on those tanks.

well, the fixture would work with SE applications, because it's the same size mogul base. did you use a 250 ballast or did you use a 400 ballast and dimmed it down to 250 levels?

i don't think i quite understand...

also, looked the same and performing the same and two completely different things.

is there an RC thread? man... you leave the hobby for a year and there's more new equipment to learn about... no wonder it turns hobbyists into nuts. :doh:
 
I cant really get into this discussion since I'm not well versed on the lighting stuff. But anyone is more than welcome to come take readings as often as they wish if they want to.
 
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