First DIY sump help

miller_time

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Hey guys, I'm going to be building my first sump this weekend and needed some help.

I have to use a 20H as a 20L won't fit into my Oceanic tech stand. I have a 57 Illuminata.

I would like to run a 3 chamber sump in this order. Skimmer/ return / fuge.

My question is how do I determine baffle heights? I don't want any overflows!!! I am planning on running an OCT-NWB-110 Skimmer so I'm guessing I should have an 8" skimmer section. But I can't find anything about the height it needs.

I will be running a marineland maxijet utility 3000 pump. How big of a return section do I need? i will be running ATO so I would guess I could get by with 6" wide? Then use the rest for fuge and the bubble trap for the skimmer section?

Someone help please!!!

Thanks!
 
Check out this site. It should explain everything you need to build your sump

http://www.melevsreef.com/allmysumps.html">http://www.melevsreef.com/allmysumps.html</a>

Good Luck
 
Thanks. I've been all over his sight but. Can't seem to find how to determine the height if my baffles. Should I use all 10" for skimmer chamber and bubble trap? And a taller one for the rugs area?
 
when you say you don't want any overflows...

Are you talking about from the tank in the event of a power outtage? (there shouldn't be an overflow in the traditional since in a sump... right?!)


I'd make the baffles high enough so as to give yourself at least 7 gallons of "drain-down safety" capacity.

1600 cubic inches is approximately 7 gallons ~ footprint is 432 square inches.. 1600/432=3.7" (so you would need at least 3.7" of "free and clear" above wherever you want the high water mark of your sump to be..
 
Rbredding;628850 wrote: when you say you don't want any overflows...

Are you talking about from the tank in the event of a power outtage? (there shouldn't be an overflow in the traditional since in a sump... right?!)


I'd make the baffles high enough so as to give yourself at least 7 gallons of "drain-down safety" capacity.

1600 cubic inches is approximately 7 gallons ~ footprint is 432 square inches.. 1600/432=3.7" (so you would need at least 3.7" of "free and clear" above wherever you want the high water mark of your sump to be..


Yes sorry I used the wrong terminology. I don't want any floods!!
 
I'd make the skimmer section of the sump's normal water level in the range your skimmer should operate at, like if the normal operating depth of the skimmer is 8.0"-9.0", then make the baffle 8.25", as the water spilling over will add about .25" to the overall water height in the skimmer section.

Here is a thread showing my construction of a 29 gallon sump with refugium:

showthread.php
 
I have the jigs you need, the the glass cut tables, glass, glass cutting equipment, silicone and a DIY workshop where I would be more than happy to lead the way.

You will be best off with 8"-9" of water in the skimmer section. Fuge baffle can be much taller.
 
skimmer footprint is 11"X7" (rounded up) so you'll need at least 8"-10" for your skimmer section.. (I'd use 10") that, coupled with an 6"-8" return section will pretty much decimate any additional area you may have left over for a fuge..
 
Fish Scales2;628860 wrote: I have the jigs you need, the the glass cut tables, glass, glass cutting equipment, silicone and a DIY workshop where I would be more than happy to lead the way.

You will be best off with 8"-9" of water in the skimmer section. Fuge baffle can be much taller.


I wish I could use your shop from all I've read about it! But sadly we live I. Nashville now so the drive would be a long one!

Edit:
Rbredding;628861 wrote: skimmer footprint is 11"X7" (rounded up) so you'll need at least 8"-10" for your skimmer section.. (I'd use 10") that, coupled with an 6"-8" return section will pretty much decimate any additional area you may have left over for a fuge..



Hmmm. That's a good point. Maybe ditch the fuge and make the skimmer section big enough to hold a couple TLF reactors???

What does everyone thing?
 
bluffmagjeff;628871 wrote: When I created my sump, there were a couple of confusing things for me. It sounds like you may in the same boat, so I'll explain them.

1. As explained above, when water evaporates from the sump, it'll show as a depletion from the return pump area...nowhere else in your system. That's what blakejohn was referring to when stating you don't need this particular chamber to be that wide - as long as you have a good ATO, and maintain the switches well.
2. Obviously, the water in your other 2 chambers will be as high as the baffles. When you're determining how much remaining depth you need to prevent flooding, you can figure it this way - Determine how much water will drain from your DT if you had a power failure. I'll use a 120 gallon for ease of math. If using a 120 gallon (24" tall) tank, you'd be draining 5 gallons per inch (120/24). If between the return lines and overflow box, your lowest draining spot is 3 inches down, your sump would have to accommodate 15 extra gallons. Design the height of the baffles accordingly.


Thats exactly what I was confused on! I couldn't figure out how to accommodate for the drain back when the pumps are off. Thanks!

So using your math of 57G tank thats 21" tall. I should roughly have about 2.4 gallons per inch. I will use 2.5 gallons to be safe. Now I can figure out what size baffles I need. Thanks!
 
... use 5 or more.. (my example 7, hint, hint)

what if your topoff doesn't shut off..?

yes.. make the sump just skimmer & return... (with the last baffle at the return section being on the bottom of the sump)

return section should be 8"-10", everything else could be skimmer/reactors (you'll ALWAYS want more than just 1 or 2) section and drain "inlet" area...

key is to have your skimmer output as far away from the return as possible.. so as to help eliminate the possibility of microbubbles entering the display...


by the way.. I DROOL over the luminata... GORGEOUS tank... GORGEOUS!!!
 
bluffmagjeff;628877 wrote: Careful. 57/21 = 2.714. I'd use 2.75 gallons. It probably wouldn't make that big of a difference...unless you're draining half the DT! :D


Sometimes I swear I'm dyslexic!! Your exactly right!

Edit:
Rbredding;629008 wrote: ... use 5 or more.. (my example 7, hint, hint)

what if your topoff doesn't shut off..?

yes.. make the sump just skimmer & return... (with the last baffle at the return section being on the bottom of the sump)

return section should be 8"-10", everything else could be skimmer/reactors (you'll ALWAYS want more than just 1 or 2) section and drain "inlet" area...

key is to have your skimmer output as far away from the return as possible.. so as to help eliminate the possibility of microbubbles entering the display...


by the way.. I DROOL over the luminata... GORGEOUS tank... GORGEOUS!!!

I have always loved this tank and found it for a killer deal and couldnt pass on it!


I am having my baffles cut to give me to give me 7 gallons of capacity for drain back.

I am assuming all 3 bubble trap baffles for the skimmer section are the same height right? So the one closest to the return is the same height as the one closest to the skimmer? I just raise the middle one up an inch off the bottom?


The shop is giving me a good price so I had them cut one baffle for a fuge just so I can play with the idea of having it but will probably forgo the fuge and just do 2 chambers! Thanks again for all of the help, I will be sure to post pictures when I'm done.
 
Miller_Time;629009 wrote:
I have always loved this tank and found it for a killer deal and couldnt pass on it!

I am having my baffles cut to give me to give me 7 gallons of capacity for drain back.

I am assuming all 3 bubble trap baffles for the skimmer section are the same height right? So the one closest to the return is the same height as the one closest to the skimmer? I just raise the middle one up an inch off the bottom?

The shop is giving me a good price so I had them cut one baffle for a fuge just so I can play with the idea of having it but will probably forgo the fuge and just do 2 chambers! Thanks again for all of the help, I will be sure to post pictures when I'm done.
correct on the bubble traps, I'd recommend at least 1.5" (or 2") between baffles (and center baffle up off the floor of the sump). If you're using glass.. no since in cutting your hand open as you reach in there to get something (that inadvertantly drops into the bubble trap) as I assume you're using glass for your baffles..

DIY Tip: use wet dry sandpaper (it's typically black.. sold at Homedepot)) in a 220+ grit with a sanding block to clean up the sharp edges of pieces of glass... be very careful... and just sand it lightly until it's clearly "ground" smooth... (be sure to catch the edges)
 
+1 on sanding the edges. I had a sump that I put together. I didnt sand the edges and cut my hand on it a few times...
 
carpenter981;629094 wrote: +1 on sanding the edges. I had a sump that I put together. I didnt sand the edges and cut my hand on it a few times...

I'm having the glass shop polish the edges, so hopefully there will be no cuts! But thanks for the tips everyone! I will be sure to post pictures of my sump once it's done.
 
polished edges can still cut...

I'd still recommend sanding the edges till they are "rounded"
 
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