First Salt water tank

I also have this one but it doesn't fit under the stand, well it's does but I'll have to remover the back support to get it in. Also here a pic of the tank, stand and part of the canopy. Painting it all black tonight and Im re doing the top it was very loose. The small tank is under the stand is a 10 gallon QT tank I'll be using.


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Ok so I don't want to rush everything with my tank but I've been checking the levels on everything about every 3-4 days since the start. I know it's over kill but I actually enjoy it because I've gotten good at using the test kit without having to read what to do for each test. I used pure ammonia to get the cycle going with live sand(which I've read recently really isn't live bc it sits on the shelf forever) dry rock and a bottle of bacteria. I did go a little over board with ammonia to start and it took about 12 days for it to get down to readable levels. I waited for it to hit zero then raised it 2 more times to above 4-6 ppm. It has taken 24 hours for the levels to hit 0 both times. My only question/concern is that I didn't have an algae bloom that I noticed. Is it common to not have one or do I need to wait longer for it to happen. The tanks has been running since 2-11-17, I've had my HOB filter running and the temps has been around 80-82 degrees(I read the bacteria works better in slightly higher temps, so I ran it there). My current levels for everything is as follows:
PH: 7.8
Ammonia: 0
Nitrite: .25
Nitrate: 160
Salinity: 1.026
I have done no water changes only top offs with RODI water. My last question would be let's say the cycle is complete and ready to go. I'm upgrading to the 75 gallon so if I just add 45 gallons or so to the new tank and add the 36 from the cycled tank will that lower my nitrates. I'm assuming it would to a certain point because the new water has none but just curious if that would work. Of course after all this I still have to setup a 10 gallon QT because I wasn't thinking of having to QT my first fish. If I bought water from my LFS and put the 10 gallon filter with ceramic pieces and filter sponge from the 36 that should be ready to go for the QT to hold Fish right away, correct? Also I just noticed that the small HOB filter as a small pack of carbon in it. Is this a problem and maybe why my levels have gone down as quickly as they have and no algae bloom. I forgot I had placed it in the filter so is this a issue. I won't have it in the sump and at the moment all I have planned for it is the ceramic and sponge that is in the HOB filter I have.


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Ok cool. I haven't been running the lights because everything I've read says that will make algae a bigger problem. I'm hoping, if everything works out tomorrow, to get my tank water, sand and rock moved over. I'll wait till the weekend to get my fish as long as everything stays stable during the week. Thanks for the info.

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I'm happy to report my reseal on the tank appears to be a success. Going on 6 hours running strong with no leaks in the tank or plumbing. The acrylic sump has a leak which is good because I really didn't like it that much. I'll remove the top support tomorrow when the tank is empty and then set the tank in. This is the only way to get it in right now. I will probably rebuild the back side brace so I can get the sump in and out. But I sold the 36 I had so have to get this one running now. I'm thinking about going no sand in the DT so should I paint the bottom black tomorrow once I empty it.


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So quick question on getting a CUC. I know it may be early but would it be hard on them. Water parameters are steady except Nitrates. Which will drop once I do water additions to the big tank. Also in the sump I have water designing in right and the skimmer will go there. I have sponge leaving that are with I think ceramic pieces on top of the sponge filter. I'm thinking refugium in the middle and then some fine floss in the breaks going into the return section. Running a DCT-6000 return pump. So on refugium I need a light of some kind and also something to add in the refugium. Any help on those two items and about the CUC would be greatly appreciated.



I have a 20 gallon for my office which will have sand, few rocks and mainly corals and fish/invertebrates that like sand. Still have a 10 gallon QT tank that will stay in my office also and run all the time with maybe a fish or two. The QT will have no sand and some pvc for hiding and lights will be over flow from my desk lights.

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Finally got the rock and water in the tank. Plumbing works ok for being plastic hoses but very happy so far. Going to wash the sand in some RO water to get the filthy stuff off. Once I started moving everything I could tell the sand was starting to get a layer of diatoms or something. But anyways coming along get and this was a much harder task than I thought it would be. If anyone has a led fixture that is 24-36 inches for sale cheap let me know. I have this currently but it doesn't cover the entire tank.
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Thanks I'm finally done with the tank. It's up and running and now I want to not touch it for a few days. Wow what a pain to setup since my biggest tank was a 20 gallon years ago. Wouldn't have been so bad if it was just a HOB filter instead of a sump. Something I had to research and figure out what speed for my pump and everything. Just got to rearrange the rock because it was late last night when I moved it over.


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Ok so it's been a while since I updated this. I had a issue with nitrates getting high quickly but got that under control and moved my corals and fish to the DT. Was able to get a RBTA, Green toadstool, few small frags and 2 clowns from a few local reefers for good deals(thanks). I have 2 black and white damsels, 1 yellow tail and a peppermint shrimp. The damsels are real small around a dime size. May have moved a few too many fish into the DT at once but wife wanted the 20 gallon out of the living room and it was easier to move everything to the DT and put the 20 up. Bc of that I'll be doing 10 gallon wc daily or every other day to help nitrates if needed. Got 40 gallons made up so I should be good. The tank looks great and can't wait for some of the corals to grow and really add color to the tank. Here are a few pictures of the tank and sump area. I'm hoping to have a skimmer this weekend week will help keep everything under control a little.


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10g daily might be a bit overkill. If I was you I would start off at 10g every other day and test the water on the day's you don't do a water change to make sure that you're not having an ammo spike. If everything looks good for a week or two then I would slowly start reducing the amount of water change or frequency so that the microbial population in your tank can start growing at a safe rate (you don't want a boom and bust cycle...). The key is to do frequent water tests to make sure you're aware of the water quality and can adapt your WC plan from there. That's just my 2 cents though.
 
blind1993;1112472 wrote: 10g daily might be a bit overkill. If I was you I would start off at 10g every other day and test the water on the day's you don't do a water change to make sure that you're not having an ammo spike. If everything looks good for a week or two then I would slowly start reducing the amount of water change or frequency so that the microbial population in your tank can start growing at a safe rate (you don't want a boom and bust cycle...). The key is to do frequent water tests to make sure you're aware of the water quality and can adapt your WC plan from there. That's just my 2 cents though.



Thanks and yeah I'd prefer to not do them that often but I got the water ready in case i need too. I'm a little crazy on checking the water for sure I've checked it almost everyday for a few weeks now.


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Here's updated pics of my corals and cayno bloom that started 2 days ago. But all my levels have finally got consistent.




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Any advice on moving corals or anything let me know

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What I immediately don't see is cyanobacteria. What you have is a diatom bloom. It will pass as your tank stabilizes over the next few months.


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I may have missed it, but do you have an updated alk reading?


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Any advice on moving corals or anything let me know. I'm very new and had some money so I'm trying to get what I can now before tax money is gone. Any hints and tips on feeding the corals would be sweet. Also if you make your own food and would like some help, mainly to see how it's done let me know. I'm in winder but work in Gainesville and Atlanta during the week. Trying to get the tank with lot more color and pop by 7/14/17 for my sons 1st birthday. Bc it'll give me time for her/his fish a yellow tang or hippo tang or both. Sorry I'm rambling on because I'm intoxicated a little and enjoying my tank. Kinda weird but seriously after a stressful day coming home and hand feeding the damels and shrimp, clowns won't eat frozen brined shrimp, only pellets. Want to make better food to make them healthier and to benefit the corals growth(mainly) but also there color. Also interested in someone coming to my house to teach me some basic frag techniques with toadstool, zoas, torch, GSP and anemone. Please send this to those in the are who would like to help or let me watch. I totally enjoy the forum and has been a pleasure meeting people from here. Reef On

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SnowManSnow;1112979 said:
I may have missed it, but do you have an updated alk reading?


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I'll have to check that tomorrow, I don't have a tester for it.

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I'd suggest slowing down. :) believe me I know how fun it is to get a tank going! I'm still fairly inexperienced compared to some here, but I've been in 13 years now, and I can say it can take a good 6 months for a tank to settle out and a good 9-10 to really be ready for any type of coral load.
Yes there are things on the market that speed this process, but in my limited experience good ol patience is the winner.
You may also reconsider the tang route:) they require a good bit of stretching room:)
Again, not trying to discourage you... just encouraging you to take your time :)


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Nolan71416;1112981 wrote:
SnowManSnow;1112979 said:
I may have missed it, but do you have an updated alk reading?


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I'll have to check that tomorrow, I don't have a tester for it.

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You'll want to keep an eye on alk. An alk swing can nuke stuff and n a heartbeat


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Doing 15 gallon WC tomorrow for nitrates.


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On the tangs. We are planning our new house build which will be happening next year. Will have a 8-10 foot tank 2 feet deep and 18-24 inches tall. That's why I'm looking at getting them young and then move them into our forever home(fish too). I have gone a little fast on corals but I'm hoping with the extra work checking calcium, alkalinity, and other stuff


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to get a clear idea of where things are as far as NO3 make sure you leave your tank with NO water change for a week or so THEN test to see what the levels are.. If you're continually taking out NO2 NO3 you're robbing your tank of the cycle process. Just my opinion
 
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