GFIC question

ouling

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I don't have a GFIC in this one outlet, and don't feel like installing it if I don't have to. My question is, does the extension cords / power outlet bar that have a reset buttom works like a GFIC?

If not then I'll just have to install one.

Thanks:up:
 
No a power strip is not the same GFCI... It does not have the same safe guards nor does it regulate power in the same way. Now you can get a power strip with a GFCI wall plug but your best bet is to install a GFCI.
 
GFCI should only take you a few minutes to swapout with a regular outlet.

I suggest doing it right the first time. Mine has saved my house at least once.
 
ares;197334 wrote: recently learned on RC that if you do get an external GFI(and they do exist) they will trip off in a power outage, means they wont come back when the power comes back.

I dont know about where you live, but I lose power VERY rarely, but I do find all my clocks reset a few times a year from a flicker. if that happened at 10am while your at work... ouch.

outlet GFIs will not trip when power is lost.


This is why I choose not to run GFIs on my tank
 
chull13;197379 wrote: This is why I choose not to run GFIs on my tank


I hope you are referring to the extension cord with a gfi in it. You really must have a gfi outlet for you tank, just like your bathrooms, kitchen, Garage, & outside. This could easily save your home & your family. I have never had my gfi trip due to a power outage (many). Even if it did, your family is more important than a fish tank.
 
chull13;197379 wrote: This is why I choose not to run GFIs on my tank

I missing something here?

My GFI tripped when water got into this power unit, probably saved the house........The fire inside the unit happened because I had my sister plug everything into another outlet. Which was not a smart idea in hind sight.
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Someone on here is a seasoned electrician and was saying he also chose NOT to install GFI on his tank applications for some reason. Wish I could find the thread...
 
corvettecris;197464 wrote: Someone on here is a seasoned electrician and was saying he also chose NOT to install GFI on his tank applications for some reason. Wish I could find the thread...


I saw that, but that is just insane. I know an electrician that added a dedicated outlet to my aquarium, and he put a gfi on that one, plus the existing one. gfi's save lives which is why it's the law to put them in bathrooms, etc.
 
That is interesting as my dad who's a retired electrician thought it was a good idea. I guess I need to call him tomorrow AM ask again. In fact he installed it for me.
 
Ayveq;197477 wrote: I have an external GFI unit. Sounds like I better switch that out for a GFI outlet ASAP. The swap out is pretty straight forward?

Yeah just like installing an electrical outlet. Cut the power at the breaker and swap it out. But only do this if you understand what you're doing and comfortable in doing this. That is my disclaimer!
 
I cant remember the reasoning. It made sense if I remember correctly, but not I cant be sure why unless I find/read it again...

I should probably install one too since I live in apt. I'd feel bad if I burned down the neighbors (the nice guy downstairs, not so much the noisy ones upstairs).
 
Interesting link. MAke perfect sense, but that wasnt the reason the electrician was using.
 
I don't know. I've been reading through google links and not found much in the way of way you shouldn't have one.

One point that I did see and it is a great point is that you don't want you GFI near the tank as you may get salt in it and render it useless. His point is that you should have to walk to your outlet to reset it. Mine is ~ 4" away and everything is plug into a heavy duty extension cord.
 
To clear up a few things:

A normal circuit breaker works by detecting the total current (measured in Amps) that's flowing through the line. If the total current goes over the breaker's rated capacity (typically 20 amps), then a little bar will get hot and deform, causing the ciruit to break, and the energy to stop flowing. This works fine for most things, but doesn't account for others. For example, dropping a hair dryer into a bathtub could send 19.5 amps @ 120 through the tub, killing the person bathing, but not throwing the circuit breaker. One characteristic is that the little strip of metal takes a little time (about a 1/2 second) to heat up and deform in order to throw the breaker. This works well for motors, ballasts, and other things that have a high inrush current. A normal breaker only monitors the "hot" line of a 2 or 3 line plug.

A GFCI is a Ground Fault Circuit Interupter. Instead of monitoring one line for total power, it measures the total electricity going to the appliance via the "hot" line compared to the electricity flowing back down the neutral line. (Yes, electricity in your house flows through the plug, just like a battery requires both leads to be connected). If there is an imbalance (as little as 4 or 5 milliamps), it will break (or "interrupt") the circuit.

A GFCI detects "leakage" of the current flow. A normal breaker only tests overall power. They're different devices for different needs. I don't run my chiller on a GFCI circuit, but I run everything else on one - the chiller has such a high inrush (startup) current that it'd throw the GFCI everytime.

To those who say that "a GFCI won't start back up"- neither will a regular circuit breaker. If it trips during a power outage, I'd argue that you have cheap outlets; I've never had one go off due to a power outage. My opinion is that I've got things more important than the running of my tank (such as my own life, my wife's life, and my house). If there's water hitting a live line, I want that circuit to shut off ie- "Fail Safe".

Finally, I have each outlet in my fish room as a separate GFCI, and wired appropriately, so that if one trips, it won't affect the rest of them. Combined with redundancy across circuits, pumps, lights, etc, even if one tripped, it may be a couple days before I even noticed....
 
ares;197518 wrote:

on a related note, for those planning to replace outlets, breaker off does not mean its dead. breaker is only breaking the connection, you can still make a fine ground for the live side of things. if you want to be absolutely 100% safe, kill the main breaker to your house. work quick though and have a flashlight handy, the ice is melting :p

I'm not sure what you mean by this. The hot wire (black in most cases) comes from the breaker and if it is turned off there is no way I know of that the outlet is live unless there is something seriously wrong with the wiring.
 
Seriously wrong with the wiring or the breaker itself. I would never cut the Main breaker, seems a little tooooo cautious for me. But I kind of like the tingle:)
 
I am for the tingle in stead of turning off the main. I have had a few experiences where turning off a 2 pole breakers (i.e...main breaker) and turning it back on and one of the poles didn't reclose. This has happened more than once, one time it was on a BIG (400Amp 3phase) breaker in an industrial location when we turned it back on just 2 phases were hot. I don't turn off any main breakers if it is not necessary. Just my $.02, but I do play with this stuff all day every day!!

Jason
 
ares;197724 wrote: I don't know what I mean by it either. but I assure you the wiring is correct, and the breaker was off. I still got zapped. no clue. 3 wires, black, white, and bare. the black gets switched off by the breaker, but unless I'm mistaken, isn't the white still hot if it found another ground?


nope, the white is neutral and grounded. The hot can still be hot for various reasons:
1. wrong breaker!
2. more than one line going through receptacle
3. bad wiring
4. bad ground............. I'm sure there is more reasons....
 
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