GFO Issue

[90galguy]

I just got home to see that that I had an increased flow into my GFO reactor and has covered my sump in a nice orange coating. My filters are full as well. I just took out the filters and started the cleaning process. In the meantime my tank is now completely fogged up. I'm preparing a water change, but it's going to take a couple hours to get the water ready.

Anything I should do in the meantime? Will everything be ok????

 

[purplegorilla]

Fogged up as in cloudy? GFO is a dangerous thing to play with. Not sure if your is a full blown reef or fish only. Better get lots of water and do a 25-30% water change daily.

 

[90galguy]

Yep. Fogged up as in cloudy! I'm going to do a 30% water change tonight. Everything seems to be doing fine. (As in "still alive") I'm really not sure what happened to the GFO. I've had it running for almost 7 months with no issues what so ever. The reactor still looks fine. GFO seemed to be tumbling as usual before I took it off line when I noticed the water.

purpleGORILLA;793062 wrote: Fogged up as in cloudy? GFO is a dangerous thing to play with. Not sure if your is a full blown reef or fish only. Better get lots of water and do a 25-30% water change daily.

 

[purplegorilla]

Well you will know the toxic effects of GFO in about 2-3 days on your SPS..Will turn white at the base due acute necrosis and take out the whole colony right before your eyes. So I suggest lots of water changes, dump out the GFO and put carbon in there and go to town.

 

[90galguy]

Carbon is running full force.

 

[grouper therapy]

I'm not sure how the GFO can harm your corals if it is not in direct contact with them. It is in the system anyway. It being in the sump is no different than the reactor. I've clouded my tank with GFO dust with no ill effects.

 

[Jaycen B.]

I agree with grouper, I too have made a big mess in my DT with GFO and had no ill effects.

 

[purplegorilla]

When I had multiple colonies died off about a year ago, the only thing that stopped it was my vaccuming my sump from the accumulation of excess GFO in my sump. I have been using GFO for 5 yrs...

 

[90galguy]

Now that I know "I ain't the only one" to do this................what steps did you take to clean it up? I've already added new carbon, changed out the sock and am going to do a 30% water change. should I clean up the bed or leave it be?

The DT is already clearing up quite a bit, but I want to make sure I do it right.

Any ideas on what went wrong with the GFO? I don't want to go through this stress again! I'm still new and this my first major issue.

Edit: Taking care of the sump when I do the water change. Grouper will attest to the clensliness of my sump.:shades:

purpleGORILLA;793075 wrote: When I had multiple colonies died off about a year ago, the only thing that stopped it was my vaccuming my sump from the accumulation of excess GFO in my sump. I have been using GFO for 5 yrs...

 

[purplegorilla]

When I had multiply colonies died off about a year ago. It was from the excess GFOs that had accumulated in my sump. I finally stopped it by vacuuming the sump and several water changes. I have been using GFO for over 5 yrs, over that period of time the sump has been collecting the GFO that was shooting out from reactor each time I changed the substrates. The fogging from the tank is from the corals excreting excess mucus to protect themselves from something toxic. (I am assuming you have soft and hard corals).

 

[Jaycen B.]

White milky fog or orange fog? What brand of gfo are you using?

 

[90galguy]

Jaycen B.;793091 wrote: White milky fog or orange fog? What brand of gfo are you using?

It was orange. BRS GFO. The tank is pretty clean at the moment although I do see a light dusting covering some of the LR. Will that take care of itself or should I agitate it so that it goes into the water column and filters out?

 

[Jaycen B.]

Honestly, I would just make sure it is not on your coral and let it cycle out. Go ahead and do a water change and change your mechanical filter and I think you will be fine.

 

[90galguy]

Jaycen B.;793098 wrote: Honestly, I would just make sure it is not on your coral and let it cycle out. Go ahead and do a water change and change your mechinacl filter and I theink you will be fine.

I've already fanned off the corals just to make sure. I really didn't see to much come off.

I guess time will tell. Thanks for the help!

 

[Jaycen B.]

Sure thing let us know how it goes. Next time you quote me give me a few to fix my bad typing skills. LOL

Good info here.
http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-11/rhf/index.php">http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-11/rhf/index.php</a>

Edit: JMHO that BRS GFO is junk. Rowa Phos is 1000 times better.

 

[rjrgroup]

The accumulation of gfo should only hold excess nutrients and leach them out over time. There should be no ill effects by a minor amount of gfo.
Is your reactor run from a common or a dedicated pump? If it's a common pump...another line could have become blocked.
Rowaphos is E33 bayoxide. Best stuff available ...period! Well...as of now. Wink wink nudge nudge

 

[90galguy]

Jaycen B.;793105 wrote: Sure thing let us know how it goes. Next time you quote me give me a few to fix my bad typing skills. LOL

Good info here.
http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-11/rhf/index.php">http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-11/rhf/index.php</a>

Edit: JMHO that BRS GFO is junk. Rowa Phos is 1000 times better.[/QUOTE]What makes one GFO better than another? Is there anything to look at when comparing brands or is just from experience?

 

[sewer urchin]

I'm not running GFO at the moment so I'm not to familiar yet- still got a bunch of Sea chem Phosguard (Aluminum Oxide based) but ...

GFO seemed to be tumbling as usual before I took it off line when I noticed the water.

Will tumbling the GFO cause the oxide dust

 

[90galguy]

Sewer Urchin;793318 wrote: I'm not running GFO at the moment so I'm not to familiar yet- still got a bunch of Sea chem Phosguard (Aluminum Oxide based) but ...


Will tumbling the GFO cause the oxide dust

According to what I've read, you should have just the top tumbling to keep it from grinding itself up.

 

[rjrgroup]

The E33 Bayoxide has a higher absorption rate... .028% of it's weight.
By tumbling, you expose more of the surface area than if it were just channeling past it, however, you also can flush the nutrients off the media if the rate is to high.