GFO's affect on SPS

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Based on the theory that sps become acustom to high levels of phosphate and can not take a sudden drop in levels of phosphate. Would not scenario 2 disprove this theory?[/QUOTE]
Simple question.
 
Well you can always try Seachems Phosguard. The seachem guy said that the study that showed it could leach aluminum into the water was bogus. I have not located the study to prove it or not he could have just been BSing us as salesmen are known to do sometimes. He said that the guy used like 200 times the recommend dose before he detected dangerous levels of aluminum.

Most phosphates in the aquarium do not come from food it comes from the live rock itself and sometimes the water. I have tested probably 15 different tanks and everyone that had a problem was traced to bad RO membrane or rock. People think if you have 0 TDS that means you have no phosphates and that is not true my RO water TDS is 0 and I have .03 Phos (tested with a Hanna meter). I have tested RO as high as .47 but the guy did not have a TDS so not sure if it was 0 or not. Also the DI does not remove Phos only the membrane will.

3 others had a phos in the 40s and the only source had to be the rock as the tanks had all been set up within months which eliminated the sand.

I also found that when I was cooking the rock for my current tank that no matter how much water I changed with in 24hrs the phosphates were back to 26. I used GFO and it would be worn out in a matter of days and so I switched to Phosguard which seemed to last longer.

After I set up my tank the phosphates gradually went down to .04 over a few days and pretty much stay there no matter how much I fead or how much water I change. So the phosphates are ether used by the algae in the refugium and or the normal biological process in the reef tank to keep the phosphate at a steady .04. Thats .26-.04=.22 used up all by itself with no real algae issues. I was concerned about this when I set up my tank but I could find no one who had test their live rock before they used it and decide to take the chance.

All this does not answer your question but it's information I have gathered on Phosphates. Good luck on your search.

Joe
 
sailfish;388585 wrote: Well you can always try Seachems Phosguard. The seachem guy said that the study that showed it could leach aluminum into the water was bogus. I have not located the study to prove it or not he could have just been BSing us as salesmen are known to do sometimes. He said that the guy used like 200 times the recommend dose before he detected dangerous levels of aluminum.

Most phosphates in the aquarium do not come from food it comes from the live rock itself and sometimes the water. I have tested probably 15 different tanks and everyone that had a problem was traced to bad RO membrane or rock. People think if you have 0 TDS that means you have no phosphates and that is not true my RO water TDS is 0 and I have .03 Phos (tested with a Hanna meter). I have tested RO as high as .47 but the guy did not have a TDS so not sure if it was 0 or not. Also the DI does not remove Phos only the membrane will.

3 others had a phos in the 40s and the only source had to be the rock as the tanks had all been set up within months which eliminated the sand.

I also found that when I was cooking the rock for my current tank that no matter how much water I changed with in 24hrs the phosphates were back to 26. I used GFO and it would be worn out in a matter of days and so I switched to Phosguard and which seemed to last longer.

After I set up my tank the phos gradually went down to .04 and pretty much stay there no matter how much I feed or how much water I change. So the phosphates are ether used by the algae in the refugium and or the normal biological process in the reef tank use enough of the phosphate to keep it at a steady .04. Thats .26-.04=.22 used up all by itself with no real algae issues. I was concerned about this when I set up my tank but I could find no one who had test their live rock before they used it and decide to take the chance.

All this does not answer your question but it's information I have gather on Phosphates. Good luck on your search.

Joe
Thanks Joe for the actuals. that is pretty interesting as well I will be checking my ro water in the am!
As you know I made most of my rock and the phosphate levels were off the charts for real off the charts. It took months of soaking and soaking to get them down to the recommended levels before adding gfo. So that is why I started with the gfo and never went with out it. I actually started a refugium before adding any coral .I guess I was paranoid of the phosphates.
 
sailfish;388518 wrote: +1 also they are not sure what all else GFO adds to your water or what else it takes out. See article below.


Here is a link.
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-11/rhf/index.php">http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-11/rhf/index.php</a>


This must be a pet peeve for you because anytime someone talks about GFO you chime in. I understand why you may not believe it but Not sure why you want to disprove it.

Anyhow I have my own pet peeves so to each their own.:)

Joe[/QUOTE]

Exactly. GFO is still somewhat of an unknown in the hobby. UNknown as we don't really know what it leaches and if it is the actual cause of massive rtn.

I one day decided to employ gfo in the 800g. I had the most monster outbreak of rtn you could imagine. Thousands in corals lost during this fiasco. It last for months and there was nothing I could do about it. I experienced the exact same thing as Rit and a couple of others.

Was the drastic change in phosphates the issue? Don't know because I didn't bother to test before I dosed (not that that would tell us definatively anyway). I never contributed my losses to phosphates anyway. Rather, I blamed GFO as it was the only common factor. I don't know what about GFO caused it, all I know is that it was the cause.

Back to your scenario: yes, if phosphate levels were the cause of coral issue, then your scenario would help disprove that theory.

How about taking that high phosphate tank and using a stout does of gfo and see if the corals do okay? It would be interesting to see if it would even have an effect. To validate your frag results, you would have to eliminate the possibility of a super-strain of corals that are resistant to the phosphate change :)
 
grouper therapy;388267 wrote: First of all this is not an attack on someone's opinion or what they believe to be factual !
1st scenario
Tank A has high levels of phosphate. A phosphate remover( you choose) is added. A ramp up method acclimation is used over 30 to 90 days to keep from shocking SPS corals in the tank due to the lower levels of phosphate. Success is obtained.

2nd scenario
Tank A is now at low levels of phosphate. A phosphate remover (same one you chose)is still being used in the system. Owner of Tank A purchases 4 frags from Tank B which is Known to have high levels of phosphates and no phosphate remover in the system. The frags are drip acclimated for 30 to 90 minutes and placed in tank A ,all live and thrive. This is done several times.

Based on the theory that sps become acustom to high levels of phosphate and can not take a sudden drop in levels of phosphate. Would not scenario 2 disprove this theory?
Let me try the question this way. The letters GFO have been removed and replaced with phosphate remover (you choose). Since some think I am a sales rep for GFO . I don't care what media you use(Cow manure bull manure whatever)
I believe all of you who had terrible experiences with GFO I feel for you truly!
 
I don't believe you're a gfo salesman at all! You're terrible if you are ;)
 
sailfish;388585 wrote: He said that the guy used like 200 times the recommend dose before he detected dangerous levels of aluminum.

The comparison was taking an entire 20 gallon tank filled with Phosguard(Aluminum oxide) and then adding water. But to actually saturate the water with the AO, a process had to be run(of which I don't recall the name, but it involved the application of plasma) that broke the AO down into a form which could dissolve in water. This is something that would not occur inside an aquarium.

The other main issue with the test is that when accepted laboratory standards did not produce the desired results he considered the standards invalid and made up new unproven standards for testing and based his results on those findings. It was almost an agenda based study. He set out to prove a belief, not find a result, which may have led to a skewing of the results.

EnderG60;388296 wrote: using lots of GFO at once right at the start can cause your alk to drop faster then the phosphates being absorbed.
I'm not sure that I can fully agree with that statement. You're talking about total alkalinity, not carbonate alkalinity. Total alkalinity is what shows up on a KH test. It's a comparison of all positive cations and anions in the water column, including positively charged phosphates. Carbonate alkalinity refers to obviously enough, the skeletal building carbonates.

KH tests basically resolves the amount of acid it takes to lower a sample to a pH of 5, even though technically, KH is a measurement of carbonates. Even though it's test of total alkalinity the effect of ions other than carbonates is so negligible they are ignored in the results. Reducing nutrients would effect total alkalinity but not carbonate alkalinity.

Can we say if it's a shift in total alkalinity or carbonate alkalinity that stresses the coral?

tgray3;388547 wrote: This may be a dumb question but I aint proud, Where would Seachem Phosguard fall in here? Since its a resin and not GFO does everything mentioned above still apply?

Phosguard is not a resin. It is aluminum oxide/AO/Alum. Brightwell Aquatics has a resin based phosphate remover. GFO is Granular Ferric Oxide. Ferric oxide is Fe2O3, or iron rust.
 
Skriz;388613 wrote: I don't believe you're a gfo salesman at all! You're terrible if you are ;)
That is probably the nicest compliment I have recieved on this forum!!!:yay:
 
mysterybox;388561 wrote: simple.......

unlike nitrates which mostly remain in the water column, phosphate does not. It becomes saturated in the live rock, algae, sand, etc. Water changes do little to remove phosphates, which is one reason why it takes such a long time to remove it when you start gfo as it continues to leach from the organic matter.
Not true. Although phosphates do bind with rocks and substrates not all of them were introduced there. Some and usually alot of them were introduced in fish food and most of the waste. I know you are a fan of copy and paste so here it is.

rganic phosphorus compounds, as well as orthophosphate, are so prevalent in biological systems that any natural food necessarily contains significant concentrations of phosphorus. Not only can organic material be taken up directly to provide carbon, nitrogen and phosphorus, it can be broken down by organisms and released as inorganic nutrients, such as orthophosphate, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. The metabolic breakdown scheme for typical organic materials in phytoplankton1 is shown below:
<span style="font-family: Georgia">(CH</span><span style="font-family: Georgia">2</span><span style="font-family: Georgia">O)</span><span style="font-family: Georgia">106</span><span style="font-family: Georgia">(NH</span><span style="font-family: Georgia">3</span><span style="font-family: Georgia">)</span><span style="font-family: Georgia">16</span><span style="font-family: Georgia">(H</span><span style="font-family: Georgia">3</span><span style="font-family: Georgia">PO</span><span style="font-family: Georgia">4</span><span style="font-family: Georgia">) + 138 O</span><span style="font-family: Georgia">2</span><span style="font-family: Wingdings"><span style="font-family: Wingdings">à</span></span><span style="font-family: Georgia"> 106 CO</span><span style="font-family: Georgia">2</span><span style="font-family: Georgia"> + 122 H</span><span style="font-family: Georgia">2</span><span style="font-family: Georgia">O + 19 H+ + PO</span><span style="font-family: Georgia">4</span><span style="font-family: Georgia">---</span><span style="font-family: Georgia"> + 16 NO</span><span style="font-family: Georgia">3</span><span style="font-family: Georgia">-</span>
organic + oxygen <span style="font-family: Wingdings"><span style="font-family: Wingdings">à</span></span> carbon dioxide + water + hydrogen ion + phosphate + nitrate
Flake fish food is typically about 1% phosphorus (3% phosphate equivalent) by weight (and many products have such phosphorus data on their labels). Consequently, if five grams of flake food is added to a 100-gallon aquarium, there is the potential for the inorganic orthophosphate level to be raised by 0.4 ppm in that SINGLE FEEDING! That fact can be a significant issue for reefkeepers: what do we do with all of that phosphorus? If the food is completely converted into tissue mass, then there will be no excess phosphate. But much of the food that any heterotrophic organism consumes goes to provide energy, leaving a residue of CO2 (carbon dioxide), phosphate and a variety of nitrogen-containing compounds (ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, etc.) as shown above. A fish, whether it is an adult or a growing juvenile, consequently excretes much of the phosphorus that it takes in with its food as phosphate in its waste. Of course, overfeeding will result in more phosphate delivery than will reduced feeding levels.
Unfortunately, many types of seafood available at the grocery store have various inorganic phosphate salts intentionally added to them as preservatives. These foods include canned and frozen seafood, as evidenced by their label, and even some fresh seafood. In these cases, rinsing the food before using it may help to reduce the phosphate load it adds to the aquarium.

That being said it would seem to me that if those sources were removed by water changes before the phosphates were absorbed by the rock and other substrate their levels could decrease rather rapidly if the origin of the phosphates were removed before they were stored in the rock. I am assumming that the binding of the phospahtes is not instant and occurs over a period of time
If the rocks had been exposed to high levels of phosphates regardless of the source for a period of time then I agree with you blanket staement.
 
Skriz;388613 wrote: I don't believe you're a gfo salesman at all! You're terrible if you are ;)

You're right he is a horrible salesman since I was going to startup GFO yesterday, but now I'm afraid to.
 
grouper therapy;388656 wrote: If the rocks had been exposed to high levels of phosphates regardless of the source for a period of time then I agree with you blanket staement.

Yes, an established tank, over time, with high phosphates.
This is what I meant, so yes, we agree.
 
Budsreef;388709 wrote: You're right he is a horrible salesman since I was going to startup GFO yesterday, but now I'm afraid to.

I would not base a decision on anything I say in regards chemistry or actually most anything, except maybe and that is a BIG MAYBE woodworking.
GFO I think has done well for me, really not sure since I have never had high phosphate levels. so to say it works based on my experience would be inaccurate.As Joe said earlier his system does an excellant job at keeping po3 at bay, I would hope that is my system does as well.

The theory of the hi/lo phosphate levels and the shock that it provides some corals just doesn't make sense to me and I just wanted some or all to review my reasoning.
If I had not started with GFO and ended up with a saturation like mysterybox spoke of then I would exhaust all other means of exporting phosphates before using it, based on experiences from some other members whose knowledge I respect .
To my knowedge I have experienced no problems with its use.
 
I have the media but the main sticking point for me at the moment for starting it up is how to weigh how much I should be using. According to the BRS site I need to start with 2 grams per gallon which I can convert to ounces but I still have nothing to weigh it. Does anyone have a dry measure that will work in cups or ounces?
 
I would start with about 6-8 tablespoons.





fwiw, here's Rit:

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