Hair Alega...

[rhodan]

My 180 gal tank is full of GHA. Steps I have taken so far. I have cut back feeding (2 damsels and 2 clowns), cut MH lighs off all together, but have my actinics are on for 6 hours a day, WC 10% every week and my skimmer is working like crazy.

1. Should I turn off the actinics as well?
2. I have Xenia, polyps, and a tiny ricordia, are they going to suffer being in the dark for so long?
3. Is there anything else I can do to get rid of it?
4. How soon will I start seeing results and this stuff dying back? I have been at this for 4 days now and nothing really changed.

 

[simon_kruger]

Hi Matt,

Explain more about your tank, pls. How long has it been setup. When did the HA start showing up. What are your Nitrate levels (and I am assuming they will read low, I can explain more later why). The lights you have on will not really do to much to cause further HA issues. Continue as you see fit. I'd run the MH's as well once i started the treatment.

I'd do further WC's maybe doing a bigger amount.
Are you using RO/DI water in your WC's? TDS levels must be zero or close to.
Go off and buy an algae cleaner crew of hermits and snails. Any good LFS should help you. Volume depends on outbreak and LR and fish loads.
How much LR do you have in your 180G and sump?
Has the recent outside temperature increase had an affect on your tanks temp. Whats it sitting at the moment?
Do you dose with Magnesium? if not start doing so, get levels >1400ppm
If you act soon, i think you'll be fine in approx 2~3 weeks.

Dont worry we all go through HA issue once in a while.

Good luck.

 

[fishguy56]

Crabs and snails will mow it all away, BUT need to control the water so it will not continue.

 

[ralph atl]

ok, here's my standard post:

<span style="font-family: Times New Roman;"><span style="font-size: 13px;">Phosphate reduction/ removal and high trates could be the answer. If you cannot get a fuge or sump (you can maybe make a "rubbermaid sump with chaeto in it for a few bucks) you can get a $35.00 hangon phosphate reactor for your tank and put some Phosar HC in there (or other). In the future, you'll most likely need a refugium with Macro algae. At first you’ll need to change your Iron based media in the phosphate reactor more often. Your media will get saturated in 2 weeks or so depending upon how much is bound up in your rocks, tank, algae, etc. Use less media, change every 2 weeks. Use a great test kit like DD Merck, Hack, Elos, or colormeter or send to AWT. If you already have a fuge & reactor, be aggressive & change the media every 2 weeks.</span></span>

<span style="font-family: Times New Roman;"><span style="font-size: 13px;">when you do your water change, take the end of the hose and suck all the algae down like a vaccum. It'll take a few water changes, but it works (especially after the phosphate remover kicks in)</span></span>

<span style="font-family: Times New Roman;"><span style="font-size: 13px;">You must export the same or more nutrients than you put in. Overfeeding, tap water, high phosphate foods, etc. Use a phosphate reactor with some phosar or ROWA or whatever, and something to lower nitrates like a fuge, AZNO3, or whatever. </span></span>

<span style="font-family: Times New Roman;"><span style="font-size: 13px;">check out:</span></span>
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-09/rhf/index.php"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman;"><span style="font-size: 13px;"><span style="color: #0000ff;">http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2006-09/rhf/index.php</span></span></span></a>

[IMG]http://www.advancedaquarist.com/iss...st2003/chem.htm"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman;"><span style="font-size: 13px;"><span style="color: #0000ff;">http://www.advancedaquarist.com/iss...st2003/chem.htm</span></span></span></a>


[IMG]http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-05/rhf/index.php"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman;"><span style="font-size: 13px;"><span style="color: #0000ff;">http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-05/rhf/index.php</span></span></span></a>


[IMG]http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-05/eb/index.php"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman;"><span style="font-size: 13px;"><span style="color: #0000ff;">http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-05/eb/index.php</span></span></span></a>

[IMG]http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/august2003/chem.htm"><span style="font-family: Times New Roman;"><span style="font-size: 13px;"><span style="color: #0000ff;">http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/august2003/chem.htm</span></span></span></a>

 

[rhodan]

More information on tank:
Been up and running close to a year now, but nothing was being added but a cleaning crew of 2 emerald crabs, some Blue Legged hemits and some snails. Went through the brown alega stage about 2 months ago and it cleared up after 10 or 12 days. The HA started showing up last week and now my back glass looks like a chia pet.

Have approx. 100 lbs of base rock, nothing live about it but the HA growing on it. WC are made with RO/DI...I do not have a TDS meter, but I have one on order. I did change my RO/DI filters today to start filling up a 30 trashcan of water. My sump, which is located in the basement, has some chaeto in it, about the size of a 2 softballs. Water Temp hovers between 75-77, pH is low around 7.5 and my nitrates are just at 10 ppm. And I do add phyto for the chaeto copepods once a week. Not sure if it has anything to do with the outbreak but the more information the better.

I am making up some limewater tonight to add to battle some phophates (test kit for the phophates will be here tomorrow). I have not even looked into the Magnesium option. Would that be better then the limewater?

 

[ralph atl]

just lower your phosphates and keep nitrates low!

 

[rhodan]

Actually mysteryBox I started doing what I been doing cause you gave me those links when my SeaHare died 3 days ago. I'm trying to take this slow but get through it quickly as well. I think I'm doing everything right and it is now just a waiting game. I'm trying to pull out what I can by hand but this stuff is stuck on the glass bigtime. I had to use an old plastic credit card to try to scrape some of it off the glass, but even that seemed like a loosing battle.

 

[zdaytonaroadster]

regal tang will clean it for you very fast too

 

[soarin']

I would add a remote deep sand bed to your system -- a dsb is amazing for pulling out phosphates in my experience. There is a great thread on those by Anthony Calfo over on reefcentral.

I have two tanks that have been running for a while, a barebottom with skimmer and a DSB tank without a skimmer -- the DSB tank without a skimmer has not shown a trace of nuisance algae so far, but I am fighting GHA skirmishes in the barebottom tank with a remora pro skimmer.

If you put the DSB in a container / multiple containers in the sump it allows you to "modularize" the DSB and get all the benefits of it pulling phosphates and nitrates out of your system with easy maintenance. Anthony Calfo says that a 55gallon aquarium filled with sand was able to do the cleaning for the water of a 2000 gallon LFS display aquarium.

The high magnesium apparently only works on certain strains of hair algae -- if you get it really high it can impede the photosynthesis -- it works on some strains but not on others (more threads on this at reefcentral).

 

[ralph atl]

Rhodan;192277 wrote: Actually mysteryBox I started doing what I been doing cause you gave me those links when my SeaHare died 3 days ago. I'm trying to take this slow but get through it quickly as well. I think I'm doing everything right and it is now just a waiting game. I'm trying to pull out what I can by hand but this stuff is stuck on the glass bigtime. I had to use an old plastic credit card to try to scrape some of it off the glass, but even that seemed like a loosing battle.

are you using GFO?

BTW, unfortunately most of us have been through this battle a few times. I know I have. At 1 point my tank looked greener than my lawn. it definitely appears quicker than it disappears. This is usually because the phosphates have leached into your rock, sand, etc. Plus, you are still feeding it somewhat when you feed your fish. Steady as she goes.

 

[rhodan]

I looked into getting the some kind of GFO media to remove it, but I wasn't sure if I could use a filter sock or do I need to get a reactor for it to be in and I have read that it may have some effects on the macro alage of my chaeto that I'm trying to grow as well. But the GFO is next on my list if my current actions don't work. You know after typing this I think I will order the media anyway just to have it on hand. Not sure though about the reactor.

 

[ralph atl]

A reactor is like 35 bucks and increases the efficiency of the media saving you money in the longrun. Try bulkreefsupply.

 

[rhodan]

To quote Raising Arizona: "Well ok then!!" It looks like I will order the reactor and the media today... Any specific brand or reactor and/or media?

 

[ralph atl]

bulkreefsupply for media

 

[rhodan]

ZDaytonRacer - I don't want to rush on the tangs. I am planning on getting one but not now. Thanks for the suggestion though.

Soarin' - I do have a DSB in my sump...Probably about 6" deep with my chaeto, I do like the bucket I idea though. Quickly removed if necessary.

mysterybox and barbara - Items have been ordered and hopefully shipped out today.

Thanks everyone for your input.