Help female blue star leopard sick

camellia

camellia

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I have a Blue Star male and female leopard wrasse and Blue Flasher Wrasse in a 29 bio cube QT BB, salinity 1.22 pos, No2, 3 ok. Haven't had time for other tests.
The female I've had for nine days. I've done one week of treatment with Prazipro, large water change (30- 40%) and started a second round of Prazi treatment three days ago.

Fish appeared fine yesterday a.m. Took mom for surgery at 6AM. Had unfortunate complications didn't get back until late last night. Returned home briefly to fed all fish and thought both Wrasse appeared healthy and ate. Only viewed fish briefly as mom began having a allergic reaction (assumedly from the surgery anesthesia). Entire night in ER, now 18 hours later (just returned) female is laying on her side next to PVC with labored breathing. Up until today she has been eating and healthy in appearance.

No responce to food or lighting, started swimming on her side upside down.

No visual signs of illness, she looks beautiful but it appears she is dying quickly.

I've added 3 mg of Alpha Aquavitro & carbon. I don't know what else I can do?

I have metro and many other medications any suggestions or help???

I have limited amount of time available, obviously mom is the priority here. However if there's anything I can do, I will!!

Anybody??
 
Ralph ATL;1074151 wrote: lol
Click to expand...

Well dang Ralph, common whatcha got for me?
I'm baffled why she's so stressed to begin with. Sure she only got fed once a day for two days but has been getting fed and eating 3 to 4 times lately..... Is one feeding really enough to kill her? She's hanging in there and staying upright more now. I reduced flow... Should I reduce temp or salinity?
Temp 78
Salinity 1.023
PH 7.9

In unbelief I'm exposing this:

The SUPER happy, FAT 5" male jumped OUT in front of me at a 2" opening, he knocked the screen OVER ENOUGH and landed behind my display tank. I struggled in panic as I couldn't easily reach him as he laid on my COLD tile floor! I got him, he's breathing (lights out for less stress) but OMG what a bad weekend!

Both are now snuggled into PVC, upright and perhaps better? IDK really as I don't think it will help for lights to be on and I've done all I know to do for them :(((

Any suggestions?

Appreciate Prayers for this curse to leave and my safety as I'm leaving for a ride much needed (on my new Sportster)!
:jumpy:
 
ouch, I was playin' with his response sorry!


put an airstone in that QT tank immediately!

Are you feeding fortified mysis? PE, Hikari, and the like?
 
Ralph ATL;1074193 wrote: ouch, I was playin' with his response sorry!


put an airstone in that QT tank immediately!

Are you feeding fortified mysis? PE, Hikari, and the like?
Click to expand...

Air stone, done thanks!

Yes, I bought $85 in live foods at purchase but... Getting low.

They are both breathing, fingers crossed!
Thanks Ralph
 
It's very disappointing that with 152 views no one else has ANYTHING to post!;)

Update Ralph and Luke,
The female perished sometime in the night, so baffling. She had been with me 12 days and was doing so well it's shocking and heartbreaking!

The male has had tail fin stress discoloration from day one and after hitting hard on the cold tile floor and being out of the water for 30 to 45 seconds, I feared he would be a goner this morning. However he greeted me pleasantly when lights came on and has been extremely active all day. The QT sits right next to DT. Today I had to cover the side to block his view. He was pacing back-and-forth on the side by DT, running into the glass head first and doing his best to get into the DT :yes:

After a lot (more) reading last night on QT procedures for Blue Star leopard wrasse, I decided it best to put live rock (from sump) and a large Tupperware with sand from DT. He has had a wonderful day of diving headfirst into the sand, slapping the sand out of the container with his fins and rolling around in the sand. It was so heartwarming and hard to pull myself away from him as he enjoyed the feel of the sand on him ☺️
When lights went out this evening I watched as he wasted no time diving into the sand, snuggling up and went to sleep :-)

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alt="" />

Hopefully with the time spent (two rounds of Prazipro) with meds, he's fluke, disease and parasite free. Regardless, he will be remaining in the QT until a female has successfully made it through QT and is ready for DT as his mate. ��


This club has been good to me, I respect and consider many members a friend. However, the response to this thread is very disappointing. I seriously feel ATM there's no desire to waste my time posting here!
Often (when time allows) and there are post similar to this, disappointment, dilemma... I try to post something! If I've got no helpful suggestions or knowledge, just kind words wishing good luck is better than NOTHING!
:boo: just saying...
 
Sorry for the loss. I know all too well how disheartening it can be to try everything in your power to save a fish and it not be enough. hoping the male makes a quick recovery!
 
I know it is not what you want to hear, but sorry for your loss. I wish I could give advice, but I watched 3 of my fish including a wrasse die a month ago. I had a few words of advice given to me but in the end they all died. The clowns showed no signs of distress other than being eaten by my fire and cleaner shrimp, but the wrasse took his time and struggled for several days in the hospital tank. I have waited 6 weeks and plan to buy more fish later this week. It sucks to lose fish, which is why I will be even more careful with the transition this time.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
 
Dang Deb, I don't get on here often enough and haven't been all weekend, but I am truly sorry for your lack of responses, fish dying and most of all your problems with your Mom. Is she doing better now? Prayers, a little late, but still coming.

As far as your dying fish is concerned, there are often complications due to shipping and collection practices.
I like to run my QT with a lower SG, as I feel fish breathe better and feel more comfortable in 1.020 or lower. (my opinion) also, the lower you go, the more uncomfortable for parasites(like 1.013 or lower) Also, I think hyposalinity is less stress on the fish than most parasite treatments.
Not saying any of this would have helped, just my opinions.
 
While my advice was too little too late for that one (I'm not on here that much), here's some info for you:

Feel free to reach out.


You want a well conditioned, relatively healthy fish to start with. Float the unopened bag first to stabilize temp before drip acclimation in very low indirect light so it's basically almost completely dark. I wouldn't expose the fish to medication not overhead tank light until it starts eating. Ambient light is fine after the fish is breathing normally and swimming. QT consists of tank, sand, rubble rock, hang on filter, small power head, air stone.

The QT tank is not just for QT, but with wrasses more of a conditioning process to insure it's acclimated, treated, and eating! Your QT tank should MATCH the water in the bag; not the tank! With daily water changes you will slowly raise the salinity to your rank. Anampses and Macropharyngodon's love shrimp, feed a variety that are vitamin enriched with either S.E.L.C.O. Boost or Selcon. PE mysis, Hakari mysis, brine, etc. Also, Live brine, Live black worms, & frozen Gamma Blaster Mosquito Larvae are all methods to entice eating. I usually treat twice with Prazi-Pro after they started eating solidly.

They love a fine sand bed usually 2-4 inches...

I feed them 8-12 times a day for at least a month or 2, then 4-6, until finally dropping down to 2-4 per day. I try to always feed for 20 minute increments after they are in display.
 
Thanks to those above!


Ralph,

I'd had this fish 11 days! It had been eating great, acclimating her was fine, she was very happy when put into the QT. I purchased $80+ of live for food and frozen (many mentioned above). I had lPVC and live rock in with it for the pods and miscellaneous live foods hide and run on. The other two Wrasse are not sand dwellers and enjoyed sleeping under the rock.

After first week I did a 30+ percent water change and the second round of Prazipro treatment. The water quality was optimal at this time! There are and have been three other wrasse ((large male) and two very small wrasse that are all still doing great and ready for DT!
If she had only been a few days old I could understand it but after 11 days and her going so quick and not effecting the other wrasse in the tank makes no sense at all to me! Oh and NO visual signs of illness!
It bothers me so much I have spent more time reading trying to figure out how and why she died!!


Ralph, I did PM you and will reach out again if I have any issues.
I just got a boatload of wrasse, I'm no longer fish poor :) loving the new guys!
I'm not even going to get another female, I've requested a credit. I've got a nice Wrase variety now, 8 total, perfect!
Thanks again
 
Ralph ATL;1074454 wrote: While my advice was too little too late for that one (I'm not on here that much), here's some info for you:

Feel free to reach out.


You want a well conditioned, relatively healthy fish to start with. Float the unopened bag first to stabilize temp before drip acclimation in very low indirect light so it's basically almost completely dark. I wouldn't expose the fish to medication not overhead tank light until it starts eating. Ambient light is fine after the fish is breathing normally and swimming. QT consists of tank, sand, rubble rock, hang on filter, small power head, air stone.

The QT tank is not just for QT, but with wrasses more of a conditioning process to insure it's acclimated, treated, and eating! Your QT tank should MATCH the water in the bag; not the tank! With daily water changes you will slowly raise the salinity to your rank. Anampses and Macropharyngodon's love shrimp, feed a variety that are vitamin enriched with either S.E.L.C.O. Boost or Selcon. PE mysis, Hakari mysis, brine, etc. Also, Live brine, Live black worms, & frozen Gamma Blaster Mosquito Larvae are all methods to entice eating. I usually treat twice with Prazi-Pro after they started eating solidly.

They love a fine sand bed usually 2-4 inches...

I feed them 8-12 times a day for at least a month or 2, then 4-6, until finally dropping down to 2-4 per day. I try to always feed for 20 minute increments after they are in display.
Click to expand...


Did you try almost all of this? especially bold?
 
Shrimpy Brains;1074435 wrote: Dang Deb, I don't get on here often enough and haven't been all weekend, but I am truly sorry for your lack of responses, fish dying and most of all your problems with your Mom. Is she doing better now? Prayers, a little late, but still coming.

As far as your dying fish is concerned, there are often complications due to shipping and collection practices.
I like to run my QT with a lower SG, as I feel fish breathe better and feel more comfortable in 1.020 or lower. (my opinion) also, the lower you go, the more uncomfortable for parasites(like 1.013 or lower) Also, I think hyposalinity is less stress on the fish than most parasite treatments.
Not saying any of this would have helped, just my opinions.
Click to expand...


This.

Ralph's advice was all good too.

Some fishes just do not travel well, some are likely collected improperly, and the combination can take a couple or three weeks to kill a fish.

A lot of wrasses just don't ship well. Many arrive dead for the handful that survive long enough to get to the hobbyist's tank, and even then, the survivors after a week, or a month, are a lot fewer still.

That's just the way it is, and there's likely nothing you did or did not do that would have changed that outcome.

Prayers for your Mom, I hope everything is OK.

Jenn
 
I know you already loss the battle, sorry, but here's what I did.

I researched leopard wrasses before acquiring mine (specifically articles below). After reading through those articles, I chose not to purchase one online and get it locally (thanks Aviarium!!) because I wanted to observe its behavior in the tank and if it eats. Also, I skipped quarantine because of what I read that they do not do well in quarantine (not recommending it, just what I decided).

I agree about feeding heavy for the first week or so for all new fish.

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2002-07/hcs3/">http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2002-07/hcs3/</a>
[IMG]http://www.tfhmagazine.com/details/articles/leopards-for-the-reef-full-article.htm">http://www.tfhmagazine.com/details/articles/leopards-for-the-reef-full-article.htm</a>
 
JennM;1078870 wrote: This.

Ralph's advice was all good too.

Some fishes just do not travel well, some are likely collected improperly, and the combination can take a couple or three weeks to kill a fish.

A lot of wrasses just don't ship well. Many arrive dead for the handful that survive long enough to get to the hobbyist's tank, and even then, the survivors after a week, or a month, are a lot fewer still.

That's just the way it is, and there's likely nothing you did or did not do that would have changed that outcome.

Prayers for your Mom, I hope everything is OK.

Jenn
Click to expand...

Thanks Jenn!

civics14;1078880 wrote: I know you already loss the battle, sorry, but here's what I did.

I researched leopard wrasses before acquiring mine (specifically articles below). After reading through those articles, I chose not to purchase one online and get it locally (thanks Aviarium!!) because I wanted to observe its behavior in the tank and if it eats. Also, I skipped quarantine because of what I read that they do not do well in quarantine (not recommending it, just what I decided).

I agree about feeding heavy for the first week or so for all new fish.

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2002-07/hcs3/">http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2002-07/hcs3/</a>
[IMG]http://www.tfhmagazine.com/details/articles/leopards-for-the-reef-full-article.htm">http://www.tfhmagazine.com/details/articles/leopards-for-the-reef-full-article.htm</a>[/QUOTE]


Sorry, she has not quite lost the battle as I was referring to her other one that she is now having difficulty with, and I couldn't get back in a timely manner for her...

While I am happy for you that your fish is doing well, and you did some research, however, the "theory" behind no QT for wrasses has been proven false in the last 3-5 years...Online is great depending upon where you get them from, and I also scored one of my Anampses femininus from The Aviarium myself. (both are doing exceptional!)
Click to expand...
 
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alt="" />


741690E2-0C87-422C-AED8-DE602627394A_zpsbq5etdgw.jpg
alt="" />
Bottom left


Ralph ATL;1078839 wrote: Did you try almost all of this? especially bold?
Click to expand...

Yes EVERYTHING!
He is eating (in front of me) frozen/freeze dried (enhanced with above). I watch him picking from Rock eating live... however it's obviously not enough and has continued to get thinner.

Dumped another $100 of live pods/foods in again this week (every week)!

I've got to be gone 2 days next week, hence apex feeders which he has no interest to eat. I've got the freeze dried Brine (and every other) but... Afraid it's dangerous to leave return off for the length of time needed to enhance freeze dried to his appeal and feel other fishes will get it first?

He sleeps most of the day under the sand in front where I can peek at him. Storing energy, showing his weakness by such.

Any suggestions appreciated.

Edit: no gamma blaster, couldn't find it!


Thank you Civic, Amy and Jen,
I did lose the female but the male has been in DT for ...3+ weeks after QT continues to weaken. Live foods get ate fast with many wrasse eating but I see him picking and eating when out. However, he's so very thin!
 
I don't know much about wrasses but I wish you good luck.

Sent from my VS985 4G using Tapatalk
 
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