Looking to see if Anyone with a par meter would be able to come by and help me measure my lighting. I recently started adding coral and want to make sure my kessil is set proper for my coral to thrive. I’m usually free mornings till 2pm and live in Decatur.
Help getting par measurements on tank
- Thread starter The_Harris_co
- Start date
Someone might be able to stop by sooner than I; but in a couple weeks, I should be available.
However, 99% of people don’t usually measure their par before starting coral. The easier and cheaper solution is just to go to google for forums (or ask on here) “Hey, I have this Kessil XYZ model LED light. What percentages should I run it at if I want to grow coral?” You’ll likely see a range of answers that work for people. Choose one of them in the middle of the range and you’re likely good to go! No shame with being conservative either; as most corals can survive and grow for many years with slightly too-low lighting, but too high will fry them within minutes/hours.
Additionally, starting slowly with 1-2 easy corals (instead of starting with 3-10 high end expensive coral... which always die in these circumstances) has numerous benefits; one of which is allowing you more time to dial in your lights better, not spending too much money too quickly, make sure other parameters are in line, and to learn and adapt your dream coral goals for your tank.
However, 99% of people don’t usually measure their par before starting coral. The easier and cheaper solution is just to go to google for forums (or ask on here) “Hey, I have this Kessil XYZ model LED light. What percentages should I run it at if I want to grow coral?” You’ll likely see a range of answers that work for people. Choose one of them in the middle of the range and you’re likely good to go! No shame with being conservative either; as most corals can survive and grow for many years with slightly too-low lighting, but too high will fry them within minutes/hours.
Additionally, starting slowly with 1-2 easy corals (instead of starting with 3-10 high end expensive coral... which always die in these circumstances) has numerous benefits; one of which is allowing you more time to dial in your lights better, not spending too much money too quickly, make sure other parameters are in line, and to learn and adapt your dream coral goals for your tank.
Thanks. I’ve looked around and did a bunch of research to get the best settings but every tank and light combo will perform different. I think the readings are more for a piece of mind than anything.
PM sent
While technically accurate; I believe there is more falsehood in this popular statement than truth. If I take lights that work on another persons tank, put them on mine and run at the same settings, it may not yield results that are 100% identical, but it will produce results that would be comparable to keeping them on the same tank and testing them 1-2 months later.
It is more accurate to identify the major variables such as: Light model, tank depth, mounting height... which may be adjustable depending on your setup.
(*Assumption that the number of lights chosen adequately and equally covers the spread of the tank)
Given that most tanks are approximately the same depth (18”-30”), that we can easily err on the cautious side, and that we can start with hardy corals... the room for forgiveness is quite large. The statement that “all tank and light combinations are different” inspires more fear/uncertainty than confidence for beginners.
In summary; you got this buddy! You don’t need a par meter, but doing so would be considered going the extra mile. That said, Steve is a good guy and I see that he can help you. I hope this info helps to boost your confidence in this hobby!
4 miles from the square. I work at no 246. I’ll pm you
I found a used Seneye online and got it just to make sure. Come to find out, I was running much lower than i realized. I have Kessil 360WEs which I now have running about 90% over a 120. Good plan checking your PAR early!
Thanks. I’d saying I’m higher than lower. I’m running at 100% part of the day.
There are two primary factors that should be considered when lighting an aquarium with corals-
1) light irradiance* : this changes/decreases as an inverse square function, as the distance increases
What that means is: if you double the distance the irradiance drops to 1/4
if you triple the distance the irradiance drops to 1/9
if you quadruple the distance the irradiance drops to 1/16, etc.
The point is that light decreases as the distance from the light increases, and at a much faster rate than you might expect.
The law in physics covering this does not take into account PAR/PUR, or how well different wavelengths penetrate seawater either.
(*the technical term of irradiance is used in physics, for what may sometimes be referred to as 'intensity')
2) Coral vary widely in their requirements and ability to tolerate light, because of two primary reasons-
A- different coral species have different light requirements due to evolutionary factors, but perhaps just as important-
B- corals of the same species may have adapted to much different levels of light, due mainly to how many and/or type of zooxanthellae symbiotic algae they contain.
A good PAR/PUR meter will help to ensure you are within normal range of a given coral's requirements.
I prefer the Seneye for the same reasons Dana Riddle discussed during his Coral Expo talk. For the money they are hard to beat, & anything better goes for $2000+.
1) light irradiance* : this changes/decreases as an inverse square function, as the distance increases
What that means is: if you double the distance the irradiance drops to 1/4
if you triple the distance the irradiance drops to 1/9
if you quadruple the distance the irradiance drops to 1/16, etc.
The point is that light decreases as the distance from the light increases, and at a much faster rate than you might expect.
The law in physics covering this does not take into account PAR/PUR, or how well different wavelengths penetrate seawater either.
(*the technical term of irradiance is used in physics, for what may sometimes be referred to as 'intensity')
2) Coral vary widely in their requirements and ability to tolerate light, because of two primary reasons-
A- different coral species have different light requirements due to evolutionary factors, but perhaps just as important-
B- corals of the same species may have adapted to much different levels of light, due mainly to how many and/or type of zooxanthellae symbiotic algae they contain.
A good PAR/PUR meter will help to ensure you are within normal range of a given coral's requirements.
I prefer the Seneye for the same reasons Dana Riddle discussed during his Coral Expo talk. For the money they are hard to beat, & anything better goes for $2000+.
