Help, my water parameters

[Gahamilton]

So I have some basics corals and I got a new tank. Finally got water test kits in. they took forever to ship. And it is just not good at all.
Magnesium: 1400
Calcium: so low on the test I could not tell probably like 200
And alkalinity was 14 DKH
Nitrates 0

I have a 2 part dosage system, how to do fix the calcium?

 

[Milangupta]

The parameters are all linked aka ionic balance.
Eg. adding sodium bi-carbonate adds Na & Carbonate (carbonate hardness). adding calcium carbonate, adds calcium & carbonate (carbonate hardness).
The salinity you are measuring is really the total of all "salts" aka salts of sodium, magnesium, calcium etc.
Borate salts also play a magic role in the ionic balance. The dominant salt in sea-water of course is that of Sodium.
Point is that it is complex and you have to know exactly what you are doing when dozing additives/two-part etc.

Another clue will be your pH. That is likely also off.

For your params to be so off, I would do daily water changes with freshly made salt water. Do let the salts mix (circulation pump) for a day.
Also, double check your measuring devices (always calibrate). Your alkalinity reading of 14 seems unbelievable and likely a measurement error.

And give it time to settle .. the ionic balance does change / balance over time.

 

[Milangupta]

This is a good resource - https://www.hamzasreef.com/Contents/Calculators/
And a chart if you want to understand what is going on - https://www.researchgate.net/figure...atic-illustration-showing-cell_fig1_329942491

Keep in mind, seawater is in super-saturation state for many of the ions. So, additives (in your case like magnesium and alkalinity overdose) can easily trigger precipitation events (what we call tank crashes).

Hence my recommendation for the safest option .. gradual water changes (likely will take 1-2 weeks of daily 10%) but you should start seeing the change. The "slowly" is only to prevent shocking any living organisms. If that isn't a criteria, a more aggressive approach aka 30% water change may be ok (IMHO).

 

[Gahamilton]

I have some monitipora digita that has been slowly looking less happy. I don’t have the best lights plus in combination with with it is probably not helping them

 

[Gahamilton]

This is a good resource - https://www.hamzasreef.com/Contents/Calculators/
And a chart if you want to understand what is going on - https://www.researchgate.net/figure...atic-illustration-showing-cell_fig1_329942491

Keep in mind, seawater is in super-saturation state for many of the ions. So, additives (in your case like magnesium and alkalinity overdose) can easily trigger precipitation events (what we call tank crashes).

Hence my recommendation for the safest option .. gradual water changes (likely will take 1-2 weeks of daily 10%) but you should start seeing the change. The "slowly" is only to prevent shocking any living organisms. If that isn't a criteria, a more aggressive approach aka 30% water change may be ok (IMHO).

Thank I will try to slowly fix it. I have some monipora digita that does not look the happiest. It still has polyps out slightly but is not looking happy. Only got the coral like 2 weeks ok. Think it will die?

 

[Milangupta]

Corals are hardier than people think, BUT they do not like change.
This hobby is ultimately about who can keep their tank stable for the longest. Some of the pros on this forum have their tanks running for 10+ years.
I am just a year old ;-). I am still only on the easiest/hardiest/cheapest corals (aka softies - GSP/Palys/Zoas/Leathers/Mushrooms ...).
Just take your time .. patience is a virtue.
Corals will adapt to a wide variety of environments (within reason), but stability is the key.
Eg. I have a ro system plugged into a level based auto-topoff. That keeps my salinity rock solid (evaporation can cause significant variability) as it is a continuous repleneshment vs. refilling once a day/week.

It took at least 3 months for the tank to "establish" (and that is even after seeding with other hobbyist liverock) and get through the algae/diatom bloom phases.
There are a couple of things (again, opinion, as everyone is still learning) that I am glad I did when I set up the tank eg. 4-6" gravel/substrate bed although, I wish I had put a layer of sponge also (promotes aerobic/anaerobic bacterial cycle in the sandbed) etc.

You will lose some corals .. plan on that. It has and still will happen to all of us. Just don't break the bank on expensive stuff from the get go. I still havent figured out how corals and fish figure out how much you paid for them as somehow, the cheap coral/fish always kill the expensive coral/fish ;-)

ARC is a great community and a lot of my corals have come from other hobbyists. I think I have given away over 30 RBTAs.

Hope this helps and apologies if I am incorrectly assuming you are learning like me.

 

[Gahamilton]

Corals are hardier than people think, BUT they do not like change.
This hobby is ultimately about who can keep their tank stable for the longest. Some of the pros on this forum have their tanks running for 10+ years.
I am just a year old ;-). I am still only on the easiest/hardiest/cheapest corals (aka softies - GSP/Palys/Zoas/Leathers/Mushrooms ...).
Just take your time .. patience is a virtue.
Corals will adapt to a wide variety of environments (within reason), but stability is the key.
Eg. I have a ro system plugged into a level based auto-topoff. That keeps my salinity rock solid (evaporation can cause significant variability) as it is a continuous repleneshment vs. refilling once a day/week.

It took at least 3 months for the tank to "establish" (and that is even after seeding with other hobbyist liverock) and get through the algae/diatom bloom phases.
There are a couple of things (again, opinion, as everyone is still learning) that I am glad I did when I set up the tank eg. 4-6" gravel/substrate bed although, I wish I had put a layer of sponge also (promotes aerobic/anaerobic bacterial cycle in the sandbed) etc.

You will lose some corals .. plan on that. It has and still will happen to all of us. Just don't break the bank on expensive stuff from the get go. I still havent figured out how corals and fish figure out how much you paid for them as somehow, the cheap coral/fish always kill the expensive coral/fish ;-)

ARC is a great community and a lot of my corals have come from other hobbyists. I think I have given away over 30 RBTAs.

Hope this helps and apologies if I am incorrectly assuming you are learning like me.

You are completely right in assuming I have no idea what I am doing with coral . I have kept freash and salt water tanks for years but never do water test, or own any. All I keep is fish untill now really. Coral are just so much more technical than fish. I have no idea what I am doing with corlas Thanks for all of the advice. I re did the test like you said and calcium was 410 and alklnity was still 14.1

 

[Milangupta]

You are completely right in assuming I have no idea what I am doing with coral . I have kept freash and salt water tanks for years but never do water test, or own any. All I keep is fish untill now really. Coral are just so much more technical than fish. I have no idea what I am doing with corlas Thanks for all of the advice. I re did the test like you said and calcium was 410 and alklnity was still 14.1