Help, PLEASE!!! Bryopsis

mysterybox;385975 wrote: Personally, I like Seachem. I just can't blanket every product that they make just because it's Seachem, either.

And I don't either. There are plenty of their products I like. There are some I don't (like the ammonia test - I won't argue with anyone that that particular test is their weak link).

There are plenty of other products I like, including Tech M and I've used it in my own systems, as well as in many of our maintenance systems, for many years. What I said in my previous post is true however - it does contain ammonia. That's something that one should be aware of when using it "off label".

Jenn
 
That's Mr. Mysterybox to to you, or just Ralph as everyone else calls me. Lol.


....and actually a few other names, too that we can't mention here. Lol
 
And I was and am impressed with the Magnesium kit. It's OK to have differing opinions. Nowhere have I told you that your opinion was wrong, but you appear to be trying to tell me that mine is wrong - which has nothing to do with the problem at hand.

The OP *happens* to have the Seachem kit. Where is the harm in helping him to use it?

Jenn
 
Well I hope everyone has calmed down. I didnt want this getting into a back and forth argument. I know everyone who has posted only wants to help me out. Lets leave it at that...

I have noticed a few more rock that have algae on them. I am going to say screw it, take them out and let them sit out in the sun for a while. As far as the ones with corals on there, Im not sure which path to take. It is growing at what looks to be at an alarming rate. Any suggestions to that?

Other than Mojo's experience on it, has anyone had success getting rid of it in their systems other than Kent M?

Where should I be looking for the source? (food, rocks leaching phosphates out, not enough macro in the fuge to help eliminate phosphates, etc.) I really really want to get to the bottom of my problem.

I really value everyone's input. Thanks!!
 
Calm is nice :) I'm calm - have been all along.

Your parameters look good for the most part. So let's talk about your feeding and such.

Size of tank? Inhabitants?

How much do you feed, what do you feed, and how often? Include any coral foods like photyplankton etc.

What are you supplementing with, how much and how often.

Carbon use? If so, what kind, how often?

That will possibly get this thread moving in the right direction again :)

Jenn
 
Its a 120g and a 30g sump
Fish: large blonde naso, tomini, bicolor blenny, lawn mower blenny and a sleeper goby.
Inverts: +60 snails, +60 blue leg crabs, cleaner shrimp, fire shrimp.
corals: GSP, a couple, acro, frog spawn, torch, kenya tree, xenia, montiporas, acan

Food. I feed about a 4"x4" piece of marine algae a day, about 20 ELOS pellets, and add 3 drops of Lugol's solution for corals (I just started adding this weekend). Everything gets eaten during feeding. There might be 4 pellets that do not get a eaten. I had thrown some frozen phytoplankton maybe 3 or 4 times since its been set up.

I supplement alkalinity only and use Kent supper bufferdKH. I add between 4 tbs a day. It will fall to 4-5ish everyday. and I check it after the lights have been on for a couple of hours.

Carbon: Seachem Matrix Carbon, about 1/5 liter. I started it about 2-3 weeks ago.

Hopefully this will give some insight to what Im doing worng.
 
Are you guys talking about raising magnesium to kill algae???????

Cause if you are, I'd suggest you think twice.......I saw a fish tank where that had been done. Every coral in the tank was bleached. Blue mushrooms were snow white. Huge colonies of acropora were GONE - just a pretty snow white skeleton.

This isn't something I would do.......
 
LegalReefer;385990 wrote:
Where should I be looking for the source? (food, rocks leaching phosphates out, not enough macro in the fuge to help eliminate phosphates, etc.) I really really want to get to the bottom of my problem.

I really value everyone's input. Thanks!!

maybe read some of those links that I provided for you?

many people have stated that KentM works around many forums. I have never done so myself.
 
mysterybox;386001 wrote: maybe read some of those links that I provided for you?

many people have stated that KentM works around many forums. I have never done so myself.

Im actually reading one as we speak. You have suggested I read them a long time ago, but Im really reading up on the vodka dosing.
 
Do not take your rock out and sit in the sun.

I use Tech M daily on tanks with Bryopsis and watch it disapear daily as well. It will take a couple of weeks to clear out completly but worth the wait compared to killing off the biological bacteria within the rock.

So what if it contains a little ammonia, if dosed correctly over time and gradually raising mag to 1700 you will not only get rid of Bryopsis but will also increase the amount of NH3/NH4 consuming bacteria thus making your system that much more stable.


Chris


I recently watched a fellow reefer drop 8# of tech M crystals into his 125 sps tank with no ill effects.:confused2:
 
Chris - there's the rub - IF DOSED CORRECTLY. My point exactly.

Tech M does not come in crystals - could that have been the Seachem product? Reef Advantage Calcium comes in crystal form, but the believe seems to be that there's something possibly proprietary about Tech M that makes it work while others do not (at least according to the RC thread I read some time ago about it.) Some even thought it may be the copper content.

Jenn
 
What do you all think about increasing my fuge from 5g to 20g and adding a lot more macro to it? It seems like people ususally have a +10g fuge. I have all the necessary equipment to do it. The only thing I would have to do is drill a hole in my 20 and a bulk head. I have everything else.
 
LegalReefer;386018 wrote: What do you all think about increasing my fuge from 5g to 20g and adding a lot more macro to it? It seems like people ususally have a +10g fuge. I have all the necessary equipment to do it. The only thing I would have to do is drill a hole in my 20 and a bulk head. I have everything else.

Great idea
 
dawgdude;386023 wrote: No one said just raising mag. And in fact someone even said, I think it was Jenn but Im to lazy to look, that you must use Kent M.

If done improperly what you stated is possible. Hence the reason I suggested a QUALITY test kit where you could know accurate readings and raise the mag at a stable and sustainable rate without causing the zooxanthellae to evacuate the coral due to the drastic change. So your talking about just spiking mag and were talking about using a specific additive by a specific company that has been shown to work.

* Concentrated liquid supplement provides magnesium for healthy coral growth

prod_display.cfm
 
dawgdude;386025 wrote: Ive got a pretty dang big fug (about 20g on a 90g) and it didnt do jack for helping out. I hypothesize that at some point it becomes almost entirely photosynthetic and my cheato in my fuge isnt growing at all.....and my calurpa died about a week after putting it in. It just withered away.

Even if its not growing, its still taking in the nutients, right? Hences, its living. If I had a basketball size compared to a baseball size of cheato, it would absorb more nutrients. Isnt that the whole theory behind it?
 
Jenn, look into store use 5 gal, it is absolutly Tech m. Contains both mag chloride and sulfate.



larger fuge is great but will not rid Bryopsis.
 
dawgdude;386029 wrote: I hope I dont get accused of a contest again but sorry Jenn I "disagree"

http://www.cheappetproducts.net/TECH_MAGNESIUM_64OZ__1_2GALLON_-P50387.html">http://www.cheappetproducts.net/TECH_MAGNESIUM_64OZ__1_2GALLON_-P50387.html</a>[/QUOTE]

Ok, ok!! You have your personal experience and knowledge and so does Jenn. I appreciate both of your coments and I will be the one to determine which is better. Please, please quit going back and forth. I just want to solve my problem and I came you ARC for all the different opinions.
 
Fish Scales2;386030 wrote: Jenn, look into store use 5 gal, it is absolutly Tech m. Contains both mag chloride and sulfate.



larger fuge is great but will not rid Bryopsis.

Isnt the growth of bryopsis from the excess nutirents?
 
LegalReefer;386033 wrote: Isnt the growth of bryopsis from the excess nutirents?

To answer your question, from WetWebMedia:

<span style="font-family: Times New Roman">Algae thrive in nutrient rich water. It is advantageous therefore to initially provide as little "food/fertilizer" for them on setting-up your system. I take exception with most authors on the virtues of one salt mix over any particular other, and the special treatment (reverse osmosis, deionization, distillation) of the freshwater to make it up. These do little to restrict the introduction of nitrates, phosphates, other chemicals of use to algae. Instead, aquarists would do well to pay attention to more important sources, such as gravel, other decor, feeding, and the addition of "trace elements", vitamin, and other adjunct "mixes". The last three contribute far more to algae proliferation than any tap water and synthetic mix.
http://www.wetwebmedia.com/algaeconMar.htm">http://www.wetwebmedia.com/algaeconMar.htm</a>

</span>
 
Well you could rid your system of all nutrients but you will no longer have any water. Bryopsis is a single cell organism and it only takes 1 cell to reinfest. By raising the proper mag. levels to around 1700 will do more than get rid of bryopsis, it will cause your chloraline algae to take off. It can also actually raise your detectable calcium levels.

You happen to have a few really experienced people trying to help guide you in right direction. I hope you take it that way. I do not see any arguing just peoples experiences.


Chris
 
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