help! quiet return pum
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T4 poseidon is the absolute quietest pump out there!
http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_ViewItem~idProduct~CP7117.html">http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_ViewItem~idProduct~CP7117.html</a>
Also PM Jin "futureinterest" I beleive he might be selling one used/
http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_ViewItem~idProduct~CP7117.html">http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_ViewItem~idProduct~CP7117.html</a>
Also PM Jin "futureinterest" I beleive he might be selling one used/
My tank is 125gal with two megaflow overflow with 3/4" return and 1", so since one 1" can handle 600gph the 2 should handle 1200. Internal or external doesn't matter. Price does matter. I'm not willing to spend 200.00 for a pump. Thanks for the advice Chris. Dakota was the grounding probes I sent you what you were looking for, I never heard back from you on them.
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http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_ViewItem~SearchStr~one%206000~action~view~idProduct~RB3123~idCategory~FIWPSBTO~category~Rainbow_Lifegard_Quiet_One_Aquarium_Pump_6000_Saltwater_Aquarium_Supplies_Water_Pumps_Submersible_Over_1000_GPH~vendor~~tab~1.html">http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_ViewItem~SearchStr~one%206000~action~view~idProduct~RB3123~idCategory~FIWPSBTO~category~Rainbow_Lifegard_Quiet_One_Aquarium_Pump_6000_Saltwater_Aquarium_Supplies_Water_Pumps_Submersible_Over_1000_GPH~vendor~~tab~1.html</a>
These work well on a tank your size. I wouldn't hesitate going up to something around 1800 GPH though, as you'll lose enough with head pressure. It depends on if your sump is set up for low or high flow.
These work well on a tank your size. I wouldn't hesitate going up to something around 1800 GPH though, as you'll lose enough with head pressure. It depends on if your sump is set up for low or high flow.
I like the new redesigned Quiet One pumps in the smaller sizes (4000 and smaller). They are quieter than a Mag and mine has been very dependable and near silent. Cheap too, but as they go up in size they do get louder. I have heard two 4000HH and one 5000 they were all a bit on the noisey side.
There is likely no reason to buy a pump that big for your tank unless you sump is HUGE. Assuming your sump is the 40g range, I would probably look at something that pushes 200g-400g after head pressure. Likely the 3000 or 4000 will be plenty for your needs. Just because you can drain 1200gph doesn't mean you should. Sumps tend to operate better with a slower flow and most fuges operate quite well with a 10-20x turnover (based on the size of the fuge). All you are doing by getting a bigger pump is creating more heat and burning more electricity and in many cases there is no advantage to pushing that kind of water through the overflows.
There is likely no reason to buy a pump that big for your tank unless you sump is HUGE. Assuming your sump is the 40g range, I would probably look at something that pushes 200g-400g after head pressure. Likely the 3000 or 4000 will be plenty for your needs. Just because you can drain 1200gph doesn't mean you should. Sumps tend to operate better with a slower flow and most fuges operate quite well with a 10-20x turnover (based on the size of the fuge). All you are doing by getting a bigger pump is creating more heat and burning more electricity and in many cases there is no advantage to pushing that kind of water through the overflows.
I have a Mag18..I guess its quiet...I have never been like.."Jeeeez that pump is so LOUD"..I really dont think I have ever heard it..Puts off more heat than I would like it to though..
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With head pressure loss on the Quiet One 6000 you'll probably only be moving about 600-700GPH. I used one of these initially on a 215 FOWLR setup. The water didn't even make it halfway across the drip plate for the biofilter. I switched it out a Mag 18 that seems to be the right size for that tank.
You'll get about 1000GPH after vertical head loss, throw in two elbows for the return and you're 800 GPH, add in a T and horizontal distance and you'll be lucky if you hit 700GPH.
You'll get about 1000GPH after vertical head loss, throw in two elbows for the return and you're 800 GPH, add in a T and horizontal distance and you'll be lucky if you hit 700GPH.
That's what I was going to say.. With my mag18 after 2 90's, 4'vert, 2'hor. And a T, running on 1" pipe.. I might be getting 600 at best.. But I make up for it with PH's
I run a Mag 18 as well...and one drain will handle the flow if I block the other drain...so I'm estimating a bit less than 600 through the tank. But that's about all the flow that I want through the sump & fuge anyway. I have no plans on moving to a bigger return pump. I've got a Vortech and Koralia handling the flow duties in the tank.
As for noise--while it's probably not the quietest pump, it's quieter than my skimmer, so I don't notice!
As for noise--while it's probably not the quietest pump, it's quieter than my skimmer, so I don't notice!
She likely only needs about 200gph to 300gph max flowing into the sump. A 3000 will likely pump out a number very near 300gph in her tank. There are few advantages for pushing a sumps water turnover more than 5x and it simply costs more both in noise and in electricity so if your sump is 30g or 40g in size 150 to 200gph is plenty.
Selling someone on a Mag18 with her tank using say a 40g sump is a whole lot of wasted pump and watts. A mag9 is probably going to push 400-500gph while a mag18 in the same system is going to push about 700-800gph. Aside from the 50w per hour more and the $40 more up front, you get more noise from the overflows with your money. That is about an extra $30-$40 a year to run that pump.
Another advantage to going less than 600gph in her setup is that if one drain clogs, you won't overflow.
Selling someone on a Mag18 with her tank using say a 40g sump is a whole lot of wasted pump and watts. A mag9 is probably going to push 400-500gph while a mag18 in the same system is going to push about 700-800gph. Aside from the 50w per hour more and the $40 more up front, you get more noise from the overflows with your money. That is about an extra $30-$40 a year to run that pump.
Another advantage to going less than 600gph in her setup is that if one drain clogs, you won't overflow.
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Cameron-
I can only agree on that if she has plenty of live rock, with powerheads to move water through it, in her tank to back up her biological filtration. If not, I would recommend turning the tank volume over a minimum of 5 times an hour through a sump. The vast majorty of filters are rated for turning the total tank volume over 5x per hour. 1.6x per hour is almost heresy! That low of a turnover is just begging for a constant NH3 or NO2 level.
I can only agree on that if she has plenty of live rock, with powerheads to move water through it, in her tank to back up her biological filtration. If not, I would recommend turning the tank volume over a minimum of 5 times an hour through a sump. The vast majorty of filters are rated for turning the total tank volume over 5x per hour. 1.6x per hour is almost heresy! That low of a turnover is just begging for a constant NH3 or NO2 level.
I use a Mag 9.5 on my 125 with only 1 -1" drain. Works fine gives plenty of flow thru my sump. I would stick with a Quiet one 4-6000 or a Mag 12 pump for your overflows with 2-1" drains. Both pumps are reliable and relatively inexpensive.
You should always (at least in every instance I can think of) have powerheads or CL that can move water through the main tank to keep it alive and healthy without a return pump at all. You should never have a single point of failure for a tank. If you are looking for your return pump to provide that it is a poor design IMO as pumps fail all the time... and often while on vacation or in the middle of the night.
I am not sure what filters you are talking about, but take my skimmer which has a rating of about 1.5 times tank volume per hour. Most people who run an external NW skimmer use a very small 100-200gph pump. The only reason other skimmers use big pumps is usually a design issue for injecting air into the water column and has little to do with turnover itself. If you are referencing canister filters, their recommended ratings usually come from it being the sole flow in a tank. The Filstar XP4 only flows at 450gph and it is their biggest filter designed for very large tanks. UVs do MUCH better when you slow them down. Nitrate Reactors use a slow flow, GFO/Carbon don't need anything fast, Ozone doesn't really care. I cannot think of a really good reason to run more than 5x through a sump in a modern reef tank design. Maybe there is some good reason in a FO or FOWLR but I am still at a loss as to why.
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There are 2 reasons I've already posted as to why.
1.Too flow of a slow through a trickle filter will cause the water to not reach the end of the drip plate for the bio balls. This severely reduces the capacity of the filter. This leads to:
2. A low turnover rate in conjuction with inadequate filtration caused by low flow will lead to a constant level of NH3 and/or NO2.
Plus I already agreed with you on that.
Hey! Yes, Thank you for the probes! I'm like 99.9% certain I sent you a thank you PM when they arrived, but just in case I didn't, please know that they are highly appreciated! I'm getting new surge protectors on Sunday, and will finally be able to use them. One is going in my son's tank, one in mine. That was a very kind thing you did, and highly appreciated!:thumbs: :thumbs: :thumbs: :thumbs: :thumbs: :thumbs: :thumbs: :thumbs: :thumbs: :thumbs: :thumbs: :thumbs: :thumbs: :thumbs: :thumbs:
