Make sure it is the thin weldon so it will go into the crack easily. There is a thick version that is nice for welding the end of a piece to another poece, such as when building something from acrylic, but not so good for crack sealing unless there is material missing from the edge of the crack.
Make sure to thoroughly rinse out any salt from the crack and allow it to thoroughly dry before using weldon. I used ro water myself. A wetvac works great for this. You can put suction on one side of the acrylic crack then spray water to the other side, rinsing the salt out. Then continue to with the wetvac to ensure it is completely dry. When you think it is dry, dry it some more and let it sit overnight if you can. Any water the weldon touches will make bubbles you cannot remove.
When you go to add weldon, use the wetvac again to suck some of the weldon through the crack. I suggest using painters tape to prevent any drips or runs from the weldon reaching parts of the tank outside the crack. The weldon does a pretty decent job of wicking through the crack, but the wetvac makes sure it pulls all the way through the crack. Let the first application set, then add some to the surface of the crack to wick into any gaps left.
The entire process takes very little weldon and it is highly recomended to use a syringe so you use as little as possible. I welded about 5 times as much stuff with the last 1/4 bottle of weldon as I did with the first 3/4 of the same bottle once I learned this and the newer stuff using less looks a lot better. Using too much weldon will make a sloppy job of it that you cannot cleanup since it actualy melts the acrylic. You should not attempt to wipe up excess weldon since it can create a haze on the acrylic.
Using this method I have successfully sealed a large dropped sump and some huge cracks in a large external overflow from someone manhandling the bulkheads when moving the tank
Good luck, at least it is the sump and not the dt