Help with crashing system

saltwaterwannabe

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I have been fighting cyano and diatoms for a few months in my DT. Now I am also fighting popeye, fungal, and bacteria infections - and some ich. I have had to dispose of 13 fish and cannot find 3. I have not counted in a couple of days, but by the last count, I have lost many corals, not counting the small barely larger than frag corals. I need help and I cannot come back from another total system crash again. I am writing a summary of the past couple month's efforts.

The system has been up and running for about 1.5 years, a little longer if you count the rock curing. I have had a little over 30 fish in it since 2 Thanksgivings ago. About 660 gallons total volume in a 210, 240 rock fuge, 60 cheato fuge, 30 frag, and 120 sump.

Process has been to reduce feeding, do a couple small wc's weekly by vacuuming off the rocks and sometimes the sand, followed by blowing everything off with a pumphead so the wc gets anything left. I also added a phosban reactor back. The cyano started returning within a couple of days to start with, later lasting over a week before returning. I was gaining ground and thought I had about won for a couple weeks then it all started coming back again, only faster.

At this point I started a more thorough cleaning regimen on the rest of my system, starting by removing and swishing the rock from my 240 rock fuge in clean saltwater and storing in a separate tank for a few days, keeping the 240 offline. I added an ammonia alert dial and started dosing prime since I reduced my bio filter by removing the rock and taking the 240 off line. At this point, I noticed my ORP drop from the upper 300's to under 100 very fast, so I swished the rock off again and moved the rock to my sump and cheato fuge. The ORP came back up almost overnight. There were only minimal cyano and diatoms through this process.

By the following weekend, the cyano and diatoms returned again, so I did a little research and decided to try ChemiClean. I watched some videos, read the instructions, and took every precaution I found. I added air stones, turned off my UV, turned off my reactors, made sure I had a supply of clean filter socks, did a 20% wc, then added the ChemiClean a couple hours later. I ran the first dose for 4 days, did a 20% WC, then a second dose for another 4 days followed by a 20% WC. The second dose made huge difference in the cyano, practically wiping it out.

At this point, I started noticing some white "fuzz" on a few of the fish. I turned my carbon back on and replaced the carbon 2 days later. About this time I started losing fish. I was having no success at keeping my skimmer controlled at this point, which was expected. With the air stones and skimmer overflowing, the Ph had crept up a bit, but it was still well below 8.3 so I was not really worried too much. I decided to calibrate my probes and learned they were registering lower than they should have been.

The Ph likely got over 8.5, maybe 8.6-7 during the peaks each day before I realized they were out of calibration. I turned off my skimmer and all lights and started thinking of ways to drop the Ph. When the Ph did not drop back to normal over the next day without lights, I started to worry more. I have since reprogrammed my apex to shut off more than just the kalk doser at 8.35. The Ph still hit 8.43 a couple of days but it started coming down enough that my lights would come on for a few hours each day. At this point I turned off the carbon and started running Melafix since over half the fish had infections.

The Ph is now dropping to more historical levels for my tank and the lights are running their normal cycle.

I have pulled no less than 13 fish from the tank for disposal, some landed in QT and did not make it, two are holding up well in the QT with Metroplex. I am pretty sure the pajama cardinal that has survived in QT thus far is blind from popeye but is looking much better.

I have lost all hammerheads, all encrusting, some other sps, an some hairy mushrooms. My other softies are very receded and have algae covering all of the tips.

I have been testing my water periodically throughout this as well, and thus far the only one that has been alarming was the Ph. The Alk has jumped around a bit while the Ph was doing the same, but the but not too far outside normal or alarming. As of a few minutes before this entry, my water parameters are:

1.026 salinity - Milwakee
9.3 Alk, Hanna.
8.06-8.18 was today's pH, Apex probe.
403 Ca, Hanna
0.00 Phos, Hanna
1470 Mg, Seifert (I rarely check this)
0 Ammonia, API
0 Ammonia, Seachem Ammonia Alert dial
0 Nitrite, API
0 Nitrate, API

Alk is higher than normal but well within the normal Alk range online, I normally run in the low 8's. I attribute this to the big pH swings I was having, or vice versa
Ph is now in the normal range for this tank. Ph has been steadily dropping every day, so I am waiting to see what happens next. I put the tube back into my kalk today, so the pH should not drop much lower now that it is back to normal.

I certainly appreciate recommendations or suggestions. My build thread can be found here, the last couple pages are more details on this issue.

 
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Mainly just bumping this because I'm no expert, especially with large tanks, but are you 100% sure you were dealing with diatoms and not actually dinoflagellates? Also shouldn't you have some small phosphate or nitrate reading on a healthy tank? Did all the problems just start in the past three months? What kind of salt and water do you use?
 
Dan, when is the last time you changed your UV bulb?

Also, are your nutrient levels really 0.0? Have you checked them against a 2nd source/test just to be sure?

FWIW, an ORP dropping like that may be indicative of a significant nutrient release.
 
Wow that is a lot to deal with. I'm sorry for your losses and I'm sure the tank will make a great rebound. I've dealt with something similar too in my very first tank when I tried to get rid of the cyano and then killed off most of my residents.

First thing I'd try at this point is try and keep everything stable. It sounds to me like what you have done has caused your tank to crash and now is re-cycling again. Keep up with your water changes and once everything is stable add in more fish. That will help with the diatoms since they are mostly caused by lack of nutrients. It will be "ugly" for another 3 months, but itll make a good rebound here soon.

I would also keep the tank fish less for a couple months to get rid of any diseases in the tank now. Sounds like you might have got some ICH or Velvet.
 
FWIW, I have brand new tests available (Salifert & Hanna) and am 15 minutes from your house if you need anything?
 
Excellent write up summary! Lots of good info to help identify here.

Responding from your previous post; I think aerating was a good idea. Oxygen has a low solubility in water. And after Chemiclean, you’ll need as much as possible. After using Chemiclean in the past; I learned to follow all instructions as precisely as possible. And once done, turn on skimmer, add activated carbon, and do a huge water change and siphon up as much of the cyano as I can during.

Honestly; lots of what you did seemed correct, and your current parameters do not indicate anything. I’ve operated 0 nutrient tanks for years with no ill effects. All dissolved organics and nutrients just get utilized; so there is no accumulation. You have plenty of fish, so I’m not worried.

The Alk/pH swing maybe contributed largely to coral demise. And the Alk, pH, dissolved oxygen, and chemicals Chemiclean, and Melafix, and any others maybe caused cumulative stress on fish.

I also wonder if any of these components and/or chemicals could have reacted with each other. It’s a hard question to answer; but a possibility for us to keep in mind.

Anytime, my skimmer has ever been uncontrollable with foam. I try to wet skim as much as possible; sometimes even doing a wet-skim-water-change. Not sure if it ever helped; but I can say that my skimmer issue stopped immediately after each time I did it. (Correlation does not equal causation)
 
1. I currently am using IO. I previously was using RC, but changed to IO when I stepped up my wc's a few months ago.
2. I had a phosphate problem about 6 to 9 months ago that I cleared up by wc's, vacuuming, and running phosban. I also used phosphate rx to help, but stopped using it once the phosphates were under contol. I am guessing there are some locked up phosphates in my system now that leech out, but my phos is 0 atm.
3. It is dinoflagets, not diatoms. Sorry for the wrobg info. It started as diatomels, then cyano, then dynoflagetts near as I can tell.
4. I have never changed my UV bulbs, there are 6 of them. The UV is well oversized for my system. I bought it used from another member that said he ran it 6 months. I have ran it a total of about 9 months. I actually had it turned off foe a couple months after clearing out the last phos issues 6 months ago. The uv is currently offline and disconnected while I am moving plumbing around to setup a seperate system.
5. Todd, I will certainly take you up on the testing offer. I have a scouting trip and my wife's bday this weekend, so it will probably be next week. I already have more than I can do this weekend
6. I am quite certain the nutrie t release caused the orp drop, thanks for picking up on that. The orp dropped when I took the 240 offline, but I removed about half the rock before remembering to shut off the supply valve.
7. I have setup the 240 and 120 as a seperate system. I was planning to move all fish to the "new" system, but have not had time. Hopefully next week. The remaining fish do not look too bad as of today.
8. I tried to remove the chemiclean with carbon before addibg melafix. I was still having foaming issues, so it is very likely that I did not get it all out. The fish started fast decline before adding melafix, but it is certainly possible that it made matters worst at first.
9. I was using the skimmer for wc's anytime it was foaming over. It has been off since starting the melafix. I have found thw skimmer is great for wc's and plan to move it to a different chamber in my system once this is all over.

Thankyou for responding, much of this has already helped answer some of what happenned. As of this morning the dinoflaggetes are covering most of the rock, so I am turning off my lights now (thanks to apex). I hope to vacuum out the diboflages before leaving for the scout trip tonight. My pc fiinshed rebooting so I have to go back to work now. Thanks and keep it coming!
 
It sounds like the swing in Ph and Alk caused the coral deaths. Or it could have been to much change in the overall stability of the tank. This is why they say not to chase numbers and to do everything slowly. That can take some time to re-stabilize. You may have some gradual die off depending on how hard it was on the corals.

I recently had my Ca jump to 550 and my alk drop to 5. I stopped dosing CA and found out my Alk dosing tube was clogged. I just waited for the Ca to drop and slowly added my Alk. I was lucky and only lost one frag of red dragon but I did everything slowly and watched my acros for Polyp Extension and tissue loss.

The overall stress could have brought out some hidden disease in the fish. If you did not QT every fish from the beginning then that could be the culprit.

I had a fallow tank for 5 months while I QT'ed all of my fish ( I used Humblefish's protocols from R2R) It sucked but I think it was the best thing I could have done for my tank. I have 6 tangs including an Achilles. I am as close to certain that I can be that there is no disease in my tank now. The rub is you have to QT everything and treat every fish in order to be sure.

In that process I lost multiple awesome fish a huge leopard wrasse, A pair of hawaiian flame wrasses, Tangs and more. I also think I starved a huge 6 year old maxima clam by have nothing in my tank to filter feed. But it was a huge lesson for me and has greatly increased my reef happiness.

One other thing of note. I like to have two quality test kits on hand so that I have a back up.

And lastly I would post this on R2R. We have an amazing board but I always post on both just to get another set of eyes.

Best of luck.
 
Whatever bacterial Protozoa infection took hold of your lps and fish sounds tough. Sorry for your losses :(. Hope that your hard work will pay off and that what you have left will recover soon. I feel your pain as we had some similar losses due to stress- although we know our cause. Everything you have done to fix seems sound and should help. Good luck!
 
I didnt have that much time to read the entire post, but for diatoms cut the lights down to 5 hours. Coral wont suffer. Can you kick the flow up anymore. Adding some extra power heads temp. I'd also get some creators online running phosguard, I suggest this because it wont strip to fast like gfo. Get your skimmer to skim more wet than dry. I'm guessing theres lots of silicates in the sand or rock causing your issues
 
Diatoms are really good at pulling what they need from the water and growing rapidly. Its why we usually see them first when a tank is just cycling. Their limiting factor is silicates though. With an established reef tank like yours, if you don't have silicates in the incoming top off water or in the salt water for water changes... then you don't have diatom issues. This is due to the growth of sponges in our established tanks which also suck up silicates although not as effectively as diatoms. I suspect that you have some incoming silicates as a 1.5 year old tank shouldn't be showing diatoms. I am also concerned though that when you took those rocks out of your rock fuge and they were exposed to air you probably had a fair amount of die off in the sponges that were present. This will in turn release more phosphates and silicates back into the water and you'll also see ammonia spikes and a mini nitrate cycle. Moving established rock is always tricky due to the sponges more than anything else as the interior of the rocks are just filled with them and I feel like that may have compounded your issue when you cleaned them and then returned them to the tank.

It seems though that things took a turn for the worse after you used the chemiclean... I've also used it before but never two dosages with just a 20% water change in between. You took all the precautions and followed the steps listed but that's a lot of chemiclean... with the second dosage. In truth it is an antibiotic that is effective against gram-negative bacteria so I'm not sure what would happen to a tank if it was dosed to that degree. I do know that it has nuked tanks before with some people saying they have lost all their corals even when following its directions. I suspect that most of those cases are an overdose of the chemiclean... So my guess is that this is what happened to your corals. It is very difficult to get it out of the system as you have seen... carbon does help some but the best way is to use your skimmer and dispose of all of the overflow from it as if you're doing a massive water change using the skimmer overflow as the pump to remove water. Once the skimmer stops overflowing which can take quite some time the chemiclean is effectively out of the system.

As for the fish, I've never heard of chemiclean having any sort of effect on them. It potentially could cause an ammonia spike from the dying cyano and other gram-negative bacteria but its not something I've ever heard of and you took ammonia precautions it seems at some point. It sounds like the fish started to show some sort of bacterial infection with the "white fuzz" or perhaps some other microbe. That's not clear... perhaps the removal of all the gram-neg bacteria allowed something else to proliferate quickly and caused it... Perhaps the prime and chemiclean have some sort of interaction? I'm really not sure and can't point to anything in particular. I do suspect that taking that massive UV offline was a factor as whatever started proliferating in the water column probably could've been mitigated by the UV. Perhaps there's some sort of contaminant as well in the water as well. Sending a water test off might help narrow that down.

All in all it sounds like a nightmare and my heart goes out to you. Hang in there though. You're not a quitter. I can't help with replacing fish but I do have an excess of some of the corals you lost. I'd be happy to help you restock those.
 
I echo the concern about the Silicates. I have found that my source water in Gwinnett has a decent amount even though the TDS is generally in the 40's from the tap, don't know if the same holds true for your side of town. Mixed bed DI resin doesn't change much colorwise with the silicates and it's easy to think DI still in good working order when it's not. Silicates also have a weak charge and are the first to get let go once the DI is loaded, if I remember that right from the BRS videos. I've verified them getting through with my system by doing ATI ICP tests and have been able to duplicate it. I now run the a Anion only resin in the 1st DI chamber and mixed bed in the second. If you do have silicates getting through your RODI those big water changes could be helping to fuel the diatoms.

I can add much more to what's been said about the fish issues and agree that posting on R2R will help with getting good info there.
 
Thanks for the offer to help restock! I definitely want to see your system.

I thought I was cleaning off the rock the most effective way. The only time it saw air was moving from one tank to brutes with saltwater, then from the brutes to the sump. Each time was only a few seconds.

After looking online to refresh my memory, I am rather certain it is dinoflagalettes, not diatoms like I originally thought. I will try to send a pic when I get home.

I had read online that it was OK to run ChemiClean doses back to back, following the instructions for a wc between, but I can say the worst of the problems started occurring after the second dose. Here I was thinking that everything online was true.

The UV had to come offline for the ChemiClean and Melafix. This morning I noticed no remaining white fuzz or popeye, but I also did not see a couple of the stressed fish from last night. My plan is to either move the fish to the 240 as a qt with uv, or reconnect the UV to the dt system amd leave the fish in the dt Would it be best to qt the fish for a few months?
 
Thanks for the offer to help restock! I definitely want to see your system.

I thought I was cleaning off the rock the most effective way. The only time it saw air was moving from one tank to brutes with saltwater, then from the brutes to the sump. Each time was only a few seconds.

After looking online to refresh my memory, I am rather certain it is dinoflagalettes, not diatoms like I originally thought. I will try to send a pic when I get home.

I had read online that it was OK to run ChemiClean doses back to back, following the instructions for a wc between, but I can say the worst of the problems started occurring after the second dose. Here I was thinking that everything online was true.

The UV had to come offline for the ChemiClean and Melafix. This morning I noticed no remaining white fuzz or popeye, but I also did not see a couple of the stressed fish from last night. My plan is to either move the fish to the 240 as a qt with uv, or reconnect the UV to the dt system amd leave the fish in the dt Would it be best to qt the fish for a few months?
I would err on the side of caution and replace the UV bulbs. They only last about a year and you're either at that point or over. You also aren't 100% on the time they we're used when you got the unit.
 
Thanks for the offer to help restock! I definitely want to see your system.

I thought I was cleaning off the rock the most effective way. The only time it saw air was moving from one tank to brutes with saltwater, then from the brutes to the sump. Each time was only a few seconds.

After looking online to refresh my memory, I am rather certain it is dinoflagalettes, not diatoms like I originally thought. I will try to send a pic when I get home.

I had read online that it was OK to run ChemiClean doses back to back, following the instructions for a wc between, but I can say the worst of the problems started occurring after the second dose. Here I was thinking that everything online was true.

The UV had to come offline for the ChemiClean and Melafix. This morning I noticed no remaining white fuzz or popeye, but I also did not see a couple of the stressed fish from last night. My plan is to either move the fish to the 240 as a qt with uv, or reconnect the UV to the dt system amd leave the fish in the dt Would it be best to qt the fish for a few months?

Yah, I know that they require the UV to be off but I'd go ahead and turn it on right away at this point if you haven't already.

The thing with sponge death that people don't realize is that exposure to air even for a few seconds can lead to sponge death. It's not that die instantly when they are exposed to air, its just that they are so porous and designed for water to flow freely through them that taking them out of the water literally drains the water out very very quickly and all that water is replaced by air. The trapped air is what kills the sponge and in some cases those deaths are slow... depending on the amount of air that's trapped in there. The entirety of the sponge rarely dies from this but enough of it that it can cause issues. So yah even those few seconds are a problem when you're moving established rock around.

Dan you're always welcome to swing by. I've always wanted to see your system as well. Suwanee to Canton is quite a trip! I'm heading up to the chatanooga aquarium the following weekend though so just passing your neck of the woods. We were going to go this weekend but we have friends in town. I'll send you a message and hopefully my hoard and I can swing by briefly. I think I still have your number. I'll message you sometime next week.
 
Perhaps I missed the previous sponge death comment; but I can confirm that Chemiclean will kill sponges.

Also; I can confirm that you can run Chemiclean back-to-back. I had to do it on some massive systems in the past; often doing 3-4 together with no issues. (Yes, the systems were a nightmare to fix). However, I did big 30-50% water changes and 24 hour rest period in between.
 
Fungus are generally opportunistic under conditions of low nutrient availability, and/or very high carbon to nitrogen ratios (ie- greater than 30:1).

Dinoflagellate blooms are often known to occur after large influxes of nutrients. As with red tides caused by the gymnodinium genus, which often blooms after spring upwelling of nutrients occurs. They produce toxins known to weaken or even kill fish and invertebrates. If this happened it may have opened a window of opportunity to super infections from bacteria and/or fungus.

Thé UV being off line allows whatever pathogens are favored environmentally to flourish, as I’m sure you are aware.

As mentioned previously, the big ORP drop points to a nutrient release.

Another possibility is zooxanthellae expulsion from your corals. These are dinoflagellates as well. This usually occurs after sudden stress to corals from changing conditions (like a big temp/light or nutrient change).

Both fungus and bacteria exhibit allelopathic responses in the environment. This is what may sometimes be referred to as interspecies chemical warfare. If this occurred, it could also explain weakening leading to pathogenic opportunity and/or resulting deaths. If you were running carbon continuously, then this is unlikely.

In any event, rapid changes in reef environments are usually ill advised and, unless I am mistaken, is what likely kicked off the problems you’ve seen.

In the future, as others have mentioned, I would also advocate control of both Cyanobacteria & diatoms via nutrient restriction.

I’ve never used Chemi Clean so can’t comment based on experience. What I do know is that a balanced reef tank has communities of both gram negative & positive bacteria as well as fungus which all interact with their environment in ways which are poorly understood. As such, I would not be in favor of using such systemic measures to target one species (ie- cyano) without expecting corresponding repercussions. This coupled with a large disruption via rock removal/taking a tank off line was obviously disastrous, in retrospect.

Slow & steady with small changes is best. Lesson learned. You’ve paid a high price for it & won’t forget, I’ll wager. I know I haven’t, when things went horribly wrong.

Glad things appear to be returning to normal. As previously mentioned, I’m available if/when needed.
Fwiw- I’m not a fan of API tests & have new Salifert & Hanna, if needed/as mentioned.
-Bill


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I'd be tempted to pay for an ICP test just to make sure some less common element wasn't out of range...and to confirm your testing of the major stuff.
 
Thanks Bill, sorry I cslled you Todd above. That was very insightful and I actually followed most of it. I am relearning the chemistry that I memorized in college....lol. I have the basics down pat, but have to think a bit about the gram neg and gram pos part. It is about time for me to reread one of farley's lessons.

Thanks to all that contributed here, I really appreciate hearing different takes on what my system is doing and what I am doibg to it!

I am fairly certain my attempt to knock out the cyano with recent larger efforts started tbis episode. Things appear to be stabilizing a bit, I will see how everything looks after thebcsmp trip and decide what to do next. I am crissing my fingers that doing nothing is next.

My son ended up delaying our camping trip, so I was able to get the UV online last night.
 
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