Help with Favia???

RDRINK25;738327 wrote: Ppm was 244 which equals 4.88 meq. I was dosing cal using purple up.

OK, well then your alk is extremely high... 4.88 x 2.8 = 13.66dKH. I'd feel safe in the 7-10dKH range and optimally you want to be at 8.5.. That means you'd need to lower yours from 4.88meq to 3.04meq... Once again you want to move in small, gradual increments. I would stop dosing until you get your parameters to target levels (because right now your system is saturated - does anyone think the cloudiness is precipitation?), then you can calculate your depletion ratios, and produce an accurate dosing schedule.. I think ideally, you'd like to be here:
dKH 8.5dKH or 3.04meq/L
Calcium 450
Magnesium 1350

I agree with others about the PO4, but just trying to help with another issue I noticed, and water changes will help you on both fronts..
 
JennM;737872 wrote:

What is beside it, to the right? It looks either like something is stinging it on the right side, or it may have white band disease.

I asked this question at the beginning of the thread but didn't get a reply. In the full tank shot, it appears to me that the Favia is adjacent to a Euphyllia.

My $5 says that the Euphyllia (Frospawn?) is stinging the Favia since all the damage is closest to the Euphyllia.

Ripped is right about the other stuff. IMO the Trachyphyllia should be on the bottom - that's where they live and they are not a high-light-needy coral.

Everything looks ticked off right now because of the clouding issue - not sure what might have caused that but I'm going to re-read a few posts and see if anything jumps out at me. The Frogspawn stinging the Favia jumped out at me in the photo. It doesn't have to physically touch the Favia either - just has to be up-stream from it and it can put a harsh whammy on its neighbour. The Favia has long stinging sweepers too but if it's downstream, it can't fight back.

Jenn
 
Now I understand! The the Frogspawn may be stinging it. I can move it to the bottom of the tank? As for the brain coral I can move as well. I actually had the live rock and corals setup for me as I am highly allergic and have to were full length gloves every time I am in the tank. I just assumed this person new what they were doing as they were a professional supposedly.
 
I'd move the Favia. The dead polyps won't come back but in time it might re-grow over the dead areas. I'd do a disinfectant dip on it too. (ie Seachem Reef Dip).

I'd move the Trachyphyllia to the bottom too.

Jenn
 
JennM;738721 wrote: I'd move the Favia. The dead polyps won't come back but in time it might re-grow over the dead areas. I'd do a disinfectant dip on it too. (ie Seachem Reef Dip).

I'd move the Trachyphyllia to the bottom too.

Jenn

Well the tank is clear and paramaters are still high. Been doing major water changes every day. How do they look now Jenn?

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Try it for now and see. I'd have put the Trachy on the bottom but you're rather out of real estate. Keep an eye on the toadstool - the Favia has long sweepers too and they often go into "attack mode" at night. I'd move the toadstool closer to the GSP just in case. That's the challenge with having aggressive corals in a small space.

You should see the Favia stop receding.

Jenn
 
Do you think the favia nad the pagoda is keeping my po4 levels up? I did a 40% WC last night before the WC the po4 was .41 and today it is back up to .5???
 
No. Corals don't produce phosphates (that I'm aware of). How much are you feeding and how often (including foods for the corals)?

Phosphate usually comes from food and/or waste, and it may come in with your source water if your RO or your source of water has it.

Jenn
 
Rodi is 0 tested tithe other night. My guess is way over feeding. Right now there is a cardinal, Blenny, dwarf angel and a mandarin. I feed I 1/3 of a cube
Saltwater-Multi-Pack&
 
not sure if you can test po4 with a saltwater test on RODI water..?
get some Seachem or GFO if you can and run that.
 
Have don 50% water changes 2 days in a row and have got the po4 down to .30 going to another one tonight and hopefully get it down a good bit more.
 
You could always try using Phosguard to absorb the phosphate instead of doing more water changes than usual... would be a lot easier, IMO.

Jenn
 
Well come to find out I am having a bigger problem as well my Ammonia is up to .5. I have a new bag of CPE and purigen going to be here tomorrow and I put in the tank last night a bag of carbon. So do you think I need to just do another WC today then put the new CPE and purigen in and go from there?

Edit: I feel at this point I am I am doing everything wrong that can be wrong.
 
Everything looks like it is back under control. My water parameters are now
2/18
amm .1
ph 8.3
temp 78
sal .026
phos .22
rite .1
rate .2
cal 593
alk 4.22

I still need to get the Po4 down but should be able to do that with water changes more frequent. The Favia seems to be recovering on the bottom of the tank. Thx for everyone's help. Here is a pic of the pagoda who has not open in quite a while. Can it be saved or do you think it is dead?

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There's a hint of life in a few of its polyps but it's mostly dead, IMO.

Jenn
 
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