#http://www.atlantareefclub.org/forums/showpost.php?p=622870&postcount=10">[B]10[/B]</a> [IMG]http://www.atlantareefclub.org/forums/member.php?u=3181"><span style="font-size: 15px"><span style="color: #22229c">swfk44</span></span></a> [IMG]http://www.atlantareefclub.org/forums/images/statusicon/user_online.gif" alt="" />
[IMG]http://www.atlantareefclub.org/forums/member.php?u=3181">[IMG]http://www.atlantareefclub.org/forums/images/customavatars/avatar3181_1.gif" alt="" /></a>
[IMG]http://www.atlantareefclub.org/forums/images/arcmember.jpg alt="" />ARC Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 425
City: Fayetteville
State: GA
Occupation: master carpenter, Sunsetter retractable awnings, Breezy living garage screen doors
Other Interests: motorcycles and homebrewing beer
<span style="color: red">built one of these and it has help alot, still have some air gurggle trying to come back up the drain pipe which is only 16" long and striaght down to the sump ends above the water level in the sump. thanks for checking back with me.</span>
Make Your Own Durso Standpipe
alt="" /></a>
alt="" /></a>
alt="" /></a>
Make Your Own Durso Standpipe - Exploded Parts List
Friday, 10 April 2009 03:44
Article Indexhttp://www.dursostandpipes.com/make-your-own-diy"><span style="color: #22229c">Make Your Own Durso Standpipe</span></a> [IMG]http://www.dursostandpipes.com/make-your-own-diy?start=1"><span style="color: #22229c">Parts of the Durso Standpipe</span></a> [IMG]http://www.dursostandpipes.com/make-your-own-diy?start=2"><span style="color: #22229c">Air Hole & Water Level</span></a> [IMG]http://www.dursostandpipes.com/make-your-own-diy?start=3"><span style="color: #22229c">Exploded Parts List</span></a> [IMG]http://www.dursostandpipes.com/make-your-own-diy?showall=1"><span style="color: #22229c">All Pages</span></a> Page 4 of 4
[B]Exploded Parts List[/B]
The following is a break down of parts used to construct a Durso Standpipe. Only commonly used easy to find plumbing fittings are listed. Specialty fittings such as reducing male adapters and reducing couplings are not illustrated since these are not common fittings.
[IMG]http://www.dursostandpipes.com/images/stories/rendered.jpg alt="" />
#10 - 1¼ PVC End-Cap with vent hole.
#9 - Connector made of 1¼ PVC. Glue to Tee, Teflon taped top for snug fit with End-Cap.
#8 - 1¼ PVC Street-Ell. Trim the connector for a compact design to help fit into smaller overflow chambers. Glued into Tee fitting. This is the water intake for the standpipe. Water level would be expected to be around the middle of this fitting.
#7 - 1¼ PVC Tee. Do not glue this onto the standpipe. Use Teflon tape on the standpipe for a snug fit. This allows it to be removed for height adjustment or maintenance.
#6 - 1¼ PVC Pipe. Sized long enough to get the End-Cap just about equal to the upper rim of the display tank.
#5 - 1¼ PVC Coupling. The stand pipe and reducer bushing are glued to this part.
#4 - 1¼ to 1 inch reducer bushing.
#3 - Connector made of 1 inch PVC. This should be glued into the reducer bushing. If you have a slip bulkhead, this inserts directly into the bulkhead — use Teflon tape for snug fit into the bulkhead.
#2 - OPTIONAL: 1 Inch PVC Male adapter - only needed on threaded bulkheads. You may want to attach to connector with Teflon tape to allow for a quick yank removal from bulkhead. Use Teflon tape on threads before inserting into bulkhead.
#1 - Bulkhead. The opening at the bottom of your overflow chamber to allow water to drain out to the sump. This drawing shows a threaded bulkhead.
NOTE: vent hole in cap start small 1/8" and enlarge as necessary
