Some of my SPS have not been doing very well lately. My only guess is that phosphates are leaking out of the dry rocks I added to my tank a couple months ago. Now, these rocks are completely bare of algae, so my question is....can phosphate levels still be too high even when algae growth is minimal?
High Phosphate but Low Algae Possible?
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I tested with API and it's undetectable, but they are not very reliable. In fact, no phosphate test kits are very reliable. By the time it shows up on the test kits, it means your phosphates are already too high. I usually go by rate of algae growth, but algae hasn't been growing, yet my sps are showing signs of high phosphate. Maybe it's something else, but wondering if anyone has ever experienced high phosphate with low algae growth before.
Salifert is definitely one of the best. I used them before, but stopped buying phosphate test kits a while ago. I just have this API because it came with the kit.
So you had high phosphates even with low algae growth? Do you still use biopellets now? It's my first time using dry rock, so I don't have much experience with phosphates leaking. From what I've read, it can be pretty bad on some pieces.
So you had high phosphates even with low algae growth? Do you still use biopellets now? It's my first time using dry rock, so I don't have much experience with phosphates leaking. From what I've read, it can be pretty bad on some pieces.
That was over a year ago. I sold that tank off before I had went to training for work. I am pretty sure it was high. I feed all kinds of frozen food. I skimmed and used biopellets though. I do know that the phosphates were stable though. I can't recall the exact amount but it wasn't the recommended. High nitrates normally trigger algae growth. Algae use that for food. I've never had a leak of phosphates from dry rock. It's normally from dead rock (rock that was once live rock with die off on it such as sponges, algae decay and so forth). If the die off is not removed it will leech and raise your nitrates and phosphates.
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Lance, is the dry rock pukani or marco?
If it is BRS Pukani, then you may be correct, because there are numerous threads about high phosphates after using that. If you are using MarcoRock, then I doubt it is that. I have 175# of MarcoRock Key largo in my 465, and have not had any issues with phosphates.
The phosphate issues seem to be particular to BRS Pukani.
The phosphate issues seem to be particular to BRS Pukani.
I am pretty sure it's the BRS rock. I got this from a friend that bought too much dry rock. I've seen Marco rock before, and they don't look as porous as the rocks I have.
On a positive note, my zoes, palys, LPS and sympodium have been doing really well. Maybe more proof that I have a nutrient problem...
Any suggestions on what to do next? Well, I do have this 5 yo jar of Phosguard....about time to put it to use...haha
On a positive note, my zoes, palys, LPS and sympodium have been doing really well. Maybe more proof that I have a nutrient problem...
Any suggestions on what to do next? Well, I do have this 5 yo jar of Phosguard....about time to put it to use...haha
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It's great rock, but yeah, it requires some "prep" work. I'm going to go the muriatic acid route but there's one that takes longer and is maybe more effective by precipitating the phosphate.
you need to look for a low range po4 test kit to get accurate readings.elos and red sea make decent ones
Because phosphates are typically the most difficult to test accurately. Alk, Cal, and Mag all good levels. PH swings from 8.1 at night to 8.25 in the day. Temp stays at 81 to 82.
There are many other variables of course, but I am trying to eliminate all of the testable ones first. Next, I have to stalk at night to see if any parasites are bothering them. I am noticing several flat worms, but they look like the red planarian type to me. Also, some little specs that could be red bugs, but I doubt it because I have a tricolor that seems to be doing better than other acros. I can't tell for sure anyway because the specs are so small. I recently added a coral from a local reefer who said he once had red bugs. I dipped that coral for 15 mins in iodine solution, but still having nightmares about redbugs for the past couple of days.
As for the aluminum oxide experiment, no ill effects so far. My water was cloudy for a bit, but now it's clear again.
Yea, I remembered something about soaking dry rock in RO/DI water for months to melt off the top layer. Muriatic acid sounds like a good idea, but wouldn't the rock melt too fast and then you end up with roundish rock? Sounds stupid, but that's what I imagine would happen. Let me know how that goes if you try it.
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I'm going to do it for our cube build... There are some YouTube videos on it. Even a BRS video I believe... Just can't leave it in there forever. You'll just lose a bit of the outer layer.
Ok, I answered in a way of trying to find a solution to your problem. Because specific to your question, yes you can have high Po4 without algae but will easily show on test kits. Vice versa, proliferation of algae may show undetectable Po4, which you've eluded to before.
Like mentioned before you must be using the right, low end kits of high quality.
DawgFace, I apologize if my response came across rudely. I am sure whatever test kit you are using is better than the API kit I used. Everyone knows API are the cheapest test kits out there, so I don't deny that they are unreliable.
I am not sure how else you wanted me to answer your original post though. I posted the other stats that you mentioned. You can discredit those too because they also came from API.
The only reason why I mention phosphates is because I've had an aquarium right in front of my office desk for almost 6 years now. I literally peak at my aquarium every 15 minutes or so for 10 hours a day. It is just a hunch that phosphates are the problem. That being said, the last time I had phosphate problems I also had algae blooms, but the last time I was also using MH instead of LED's. You see, I am just eliminating possibilities, and posting them on here in case anyone finds them useful.
Just from my personal experience, out of all the tests available, phosphate kits are the most inaccurate. Like Reeferman suggested, Elos and Red Sea are better. I've never tried Elos before, but you can have an hour long argument on whether Salifert or Red Sea is better. At the end of the day, no on would win the argument because no one would know for sure unless you took it to a laboratory. I prefer Salifert more, but TBH, I have no reason why I like it more.
I like to compare test kits with sabremetrics in sports. It's great having more info to make a decision, but you can't rely on it 100%. You have to look at the animals in your tank for clues as well.
So you are right, I am using the low end kits of high quality...whatever that means. And you must have a personal chemist doing your water tests right?
I am not sure how else you wanted me to answer your original post though. I posted the other stats that you mentioned. You can discredit those too because they also came from API.
The only reason why I mention phosphates is because I've had an aquarium right in front of my office desk for almost 6 years now. I literally peak at my aquarium every 15 minutes or so for 10 hours a day. It is just a hunch that phosphates are the problem. That being said, the last time I had phosphate problems I also had algae blooms, but the last time I was also using MH instead of LED's. You see, I am just eliminating possibilities, and posting them on here in case anyone finds them useful.
Just from my personal experience, out of all the tests available, phosphate kits are the most inaccurate. Like Reeferman suggested, Elos and Red Sea are better. I've never tried Elos before, but you can have an hour long argument on whether Salifert or Red Sea is better. At the end of the day, no on would win the argument because no one would know for sure unless you took it to a laboratory. I prefer Salifert more, but TBH, I have no reason why I like it more.
I like to compare test kits with sabremetrics in sports. It's great having more info to make a decision, but you can't rely on it 100%. You have to look at the animals in your tank for clues as well.
So you are right, I am using the low end kits of high quality...whatever that means. And you must have a personal chemist doing your water tests right?
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Hanna checker for phosphates!
So again I was trying to help but seems you don't want to hear opinions and or answers. I won't bother agreeing with you that API is unreliable cause you already know, but apparently put strong stock in them as you say those parameters are good and well you stare at the aquarium and it tells you it's phosphates...
I'll save you time and just tell you what you want to hear, apparently, you are right it's Po4. Phosphates that you can not test and that algae does not feed from.
And no I am nor do I have access to a chemist. Common sense, brown coral means something is wrong. API test kits or any for that matter that are telling me everything is ok signals something's wrong with them.
But why am I bothering, your dead set that I'm trying to discredit something of yours. What that is I can't figure out but I'll not comment here anymore. I'll move on to someone else.
I'll save you time and just tell you what you want to hear, apparently, you are right it's Po4. Phosphates that you can not test and that algae does not feed from.
And no I am nor do I have access to a chemist. Common sense, brown coral means something is wrong. API test kits or any for that matter that are telling me everything is ok signals something's wrong with them.
But why am I bothering, your dead set that I'm trying to discredit something of yours. What that is I can't figure out but I'll not comment here anymore. I'll move on to someone else.
