Hole Drilling Advice and Encouragement Needed!

[budsreef]

Based on recommendations on what bits to get and from where by Chrisjet I am now going to give it a try. The first tank I'm going to drill is a 30G Breeder that will become my frag tank. What size holes should I drill and where should I drill them? I'm thinking they should be in the back at the top, but how far from the top and sides should they be? The hole size depends on the bulkhead I'm going to use so what size bulkhead would be appropriate? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Chrisjet can I give you a call and discuss this some?

 

[flyingarmy]

Go Bud..Go Bud....! Patience is a virtue in this matter!

 

[bobz]

Bud,

Here are some pics of the overflow and return in my frag tank. I can't take credit for the work since I picked this up from Mitch, but it works very well! Mitch could probably give you the details on the exact size of the bulkheads and connections. The overflow in my tank has a 3/4" connector on what looks to be a 1" bulkhead and the return looks like a 1/2" ID to a 3/4" bulkhead. The placement of the over flow is about halway up the back side of the tank, in the left corner, with an elbow in the overflow box that is approx 2 1/2" below the level of the tank water. The return was drilled three inches from the top and centered in the side of the tank. It has loc-line attached with a flare nozel (hard to see in the photo under water!) Any way, hope that helps you decide.

Bob Z
Marietta
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[mojo]

If you're drilling glass, then you can get carbide bits on ebay cheaper than anywhere else. They may not be the highest quality, but if you only need a few holes. Be sure to create a clay dam (or put a garden hose over it while drilling) to keep the bit and glass cool and don't use pressure- let the bit do all the work.

If you're drilling acrylic, then a normal wood hole saw will work. A little pressure behind the drill works best. If you have a drill with a clutch, set it one or two clicks back from fully engaged. Remove the bit out of the hole every 30 second to 1 minute to allow the acrylic to escape.

There are different type of bulkheads, so there's not one chart that shows what hole size is needed for a certain size bulkhead. Your best bet is to check the specs when you buy your bulkhead (and buy the bulkhead before drilling!)- it'll be listed there.

There's no right or wrong place to drill (assuming the glass isn't tempered, etc), although I'd allow at least 1/2" all around the outer edges of the bulkhead fitting.

Hope that helps-

 

[budsreef]

Thanks, Bob, that helps. I'm not going to put a box on the inside of the tank but I think I'll add the pipe outside that I think is to let the air out and help with the noise.

Bud

bobz;94293 wrote: Bud,

Here are some pics of the overflow and return in my frag tank. I can't take credit for the work since I picked this up from Mitch, but it works very well! Mitch could probably give you the details on the exact size of the bulkheads and connections. The overflow in my tank has a 3/4" connector on what looks to be a 1" bulkhead and the return looks like a 1/2" ID to a 3/4" bulkhead. The placement of the over flow is about halway up the back side of the tank, in the left corner, with an elbow in the overflow box that is approx 2 1/2" below the level of the tank water. The return was drilled three inches from the top and centered in the side of the tank. It has loc-line attached with a flare nozel (hard to see in the photo under water!) Any way, hope that helps you decide.

Bob Z
Marietta

 

[budsreef]

Thanks, Chris. It's a glass tank and I already bought several different size bits from the ebay site Chrisjet referrenced in one of his posts. I'll definitely follow your advice and get the bulkhead in hand before I drill.

Bud

mojo;94311 wrote: If you're drilling glass, then you can get carbide bits on ebay cheaper than anywhere else. They may not be the highest quality, but if you only need a few holes. Be sure to create a clay dam (or put a garden hose over it while drilling) to keep the bit and glass cool and don't use pressure- let the bit do all the work.

If you're drilling acrylic, then a normal wood hole saw will work. A little pressure behind the drill works best. If you have a drill with a clutch, set it one or two clicks back from fully engaged. Remove the bit out of the hole every 30 second to 1 minute to allow the acrylic to escape.

There are different type of bulkheads, so there's not one chart that shows what hole size is needed for a certain size bulkhead. Your best bet is to check the specs when you buy your bulkhead (and buy the bulkhead before drilling!)- it'll be listed there.

There's no right or wrong place to drill (assuming the glass isn't tempered, etc), although I'd allow at least 1/2" all around the outer edges of the bulkhead fitting.

Hope that helps-

 

[lorenk]

If I could figure out how I want to use my 10g as a fuge, I'd let you practice on that.

 

[budsreef]

LorenK;94419 wrote: If I could figure out how I want to use my 10g as a fuge, I'd let you practice on that.

Ha! I've been thinking about buying a 10G just to practice on. The glass on them is pretty thin so I figure if I can do it without breaking it the 30G should be easier.

 

[etoh_is_good]

i'm cheering for you bud.

if you really need a hand hold just bring everything to chrisjet's house (let him know in advance though). he showed me how it is done.

 

[budsreef]

etoh_is_good;94560 wrote: i'm cheering for you bud.

if you really need a hand hold just bring everything to chrisjet's house (let him know in advance though). he showed me how it is done.

Thanks, I talked to him last night for any last minute gotchas and encouragement. As soon as I can get the bulkheads I'll give it a try.

 

[budsreef]

Ok, I drilled three tanks today with the help of Bobz. I first practiced on a 10G that I use as a QT and drilled two holes, one for a 1" bulkhead and one for a 3/4" bulkhead. It seemed to go ok with just a little walking of the bit as I tried to get it straightened up and a little chip out at the end, but I didn't break it. Next I drilled for a 1" bulkhead in a 20 long for Bob and then we drilled two holes in my 30 breeder that will replace my current frag tank. It was a little nerve-racking while doing it but they all turned out ok.

 

[horsesziggy]

bud glad to hear its working out for you if i can help let me now,sal

 

[victor626nj]

cool bud got a 10 you can drill for me to keep up the practicce then we will make you the official lawrenceville glass tank whole maker lol

 

[jetchris]

great to hear bud, easy stuff im glad you did it!

 

[budsreef]

Victor626nj;95369 wrote: cool bud got a 10 you can drill for me to keep up the practicce then we will make you the official lawrenceville glass tank whole maker lol

I don't know about all that but will drill your 10G. Just let me know.

 

[budsreef]

chrisjet;95370 wrote: great to hear bud, easy stuff im glad you did it!

Thanks for the advice and encouragement. I'm going to finish plumbing the 30g breeder today, but I think I may have screwed up in the way I designed the return. I drilled the hole for the return in about the center of the side and made a return structure out of pvc that looks like an "H" turned on its side so there is a spray bar near the surface and another near the bottom. Now I'm worried that the bottom spray bar will continue to back siphon even if the top gives it an air break if the pump is turned off.

 

[gwhiz]

Budsreef;95442 wrote: Thanks for the advice and encouragement. I'm going to finish plumbing the 30g breeder today, but I think I may have screwed up in the way I designed the return. I drilled the hole for the return in about the center of the side and made a return structure out of pvc that looks like an "H" turned on its side so there is a spray bar near the surface and another near the bottom. Now I'm worried that the bottom spray bar will continue to back siphon even if the top gives it an air break if the pump is turned off.

I'm not sure, but I think it'll siphon down to where you drilled the hole--it won't break siphon until the return line 'sees' the air.

 

[budsreef]

Geehh;95478 wrote: I'm not sure, but I think it'll siphon down to where you drilled the hole--it won't break siphon until the return line 'sees' the air.

Yea, that's what I'm afraid of. I'm going to change it to just a spray bar at the top and then put a couple of minijets to move water along the bottom.