How long for silicon to dry?

gajeep94yj

Member
Market
Messages
375
Reaction score
0
I wanna add a baffle to my sump. Problem is it's in use. How long would it take for silicon to dry and cure? I was thinking of shutting off the pump, sucking out the water in the sump return and silicon in another baffle.

My question is how long would it take for the silicon to cure do I could turn it back on.

While it's cutting what would I need to do to keep the water flowing? Would the single power head be enough? And Joe long could I go with out the sump running?

Seth

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
 
24-48 hours depending on the kind.

you can always swap the sump out for a rubbermaid or some tupperware while your doing it.
 
The sump is wedged in there pretty tightly. It would be pretty difficult to get that out.

Any other way of getting the baffle k in there without the plates and silicone?

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
 
As long as you have plenty of live rock, a heater, and good in tank flow, you should be able to go without a sump for as long as you need. Just have to pay attention to your nutrient levels and perform partial water changes as needed. I know people that DO NOT run skimmers, reactors, or any other mechanical filtration. They just have heater(s), powerhead(s) ample live rock and they do regular water changes. They rely solely upon biological filtration and regular water changes. Their tanks look great and are super simple for them to maintain.
 
GaJeep94YJ;1059026 wrote: I wanna add a baffle to my sump. Problem is it's in use. How long would it take for silicon to dry and cure? I was thinking of shutting off the pump, sucking out the water in the sump return and silicon in another baffle.

My question is how long would it take for the silicon to cure do I could turn it back on.

While it's cutting what would I need to do to keep the water flowing? Would the single power head be enough? And Joe long could I go with out the sump running?

Seth

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

If you are using silicone as an adhesive - 72 hours
If it's just a secondary seal 48 hours ie in baffles etc.
Usually if there is a lot of pressure on the bond such as a tank repair the longer the better!
The bonding of silicone to the surface is the last thing to take place! Sometimes to the novice it appears to be cured (rubbery) buts it's not done doing its work!
While all silicones sealants are not the same, it's still better to err on the conservative side!
( worked in silicone industry for 36 years😎)
 
One thing nobody has mentioned....silicone won't stick to a wet surface so you can't simply drain and seal. You'll have to drain, allow to dry completely; seal, allow to dry/set and then fill. The first one is the most important. If there is any moisture at all on the sealing surface, the silicone will not adhere.
 
porpoiseaquatics;1059082 wrote: One thing nobody has mentioned....silicone won't stick to a wet surface so you can't simply drain and seal. You'll have to drain, allow to dry completely; seal, allow to dry/set and then fill. The first one is the most important. If there is any moisture at all on the sealing surface, the silicone will not adhere.

I should have said that, good point!
Prepping surface with alcohol wipe is good as well ( of course let it dry)
For acrylic surfaces, some abrasion with sandpaper always helps!
 
I'm guessing I'll just let the little bubbles end in the tank.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
 
Water comes into singer section, bubble trap into refuge then over a single baffle into pump return.

I needed another bubble trap between refuge and pump

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
 
if you get a course foam block and slice it 3/4 the way length wise and sit it on top the baffle, that should get the job done and would also be used as a particulate filter back to the pump.
 
Wouldn't that restrict the flow? And raise the water level?

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
 
shouldn't, that's why I said a course foam so it can just get the air bubbles to pop but let the water pass free, if it get totally clogged up the water will flow over it but if it ever does, it gives you an idea of how much stuff is getting back up into the tank anyway.
an inch above the baffle should be good if that leaves you with any more room to the top of the sump.
the black foam blocks pure reef sells for the eshopps sump work great and is only about 7-8 bucks.
 
Awesome info! Thanks I'll check them out.

I need to get down there soon anyway to replace the boys fish

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
 
If the glass is cut kinda snug you may get away with just silicone on the part out of the water
 
Back
Top