I’m dealing with a nitrate issue

[Jsantana822]

So I’m dealing with a nitrate issue in my 20g tank I’m starting to do more water changes more often. I’ve seen online that a chaeto reactor helps to keep nitrates down. Who is a chaeto reactor for and what is its true purpose?

I have a Waterbox 20g aio

4 fish
About 15 corals

Just want to know if this will help me or is it a waste of time with my setup

 

[The_Harris_co]

I just feed less. I have a ring that I drop food in and count to 30. Ideally I want them to finish 80% of what I put in the ring in that time. The rest will be consumed by the 1 min mark. As for corals. I usually spot feed once a week and dose fuel and coral-vite in between Spot feeding days. i keto feedings pretty low. And my nitrates stay around 2 in all my tanks.

 

[lmm1967]

What are your nitrates running and can we get some details about your tank? How long has it been set up? What fish are in it? Do you make or buy water? Are you using RO/DI for top off & mixing fresh water?

With a 20g tank it should be really easy to get your numbers down with just a couple water changes.

 

[Jsantana822]

What are your nitrates running and can we get some details about your tank? How long has it been set up? What fish are in it? Do you make or buy water? Are you using RO/DI for top off & mixing fresh water?

With a 20g tank it should be really easy to get your numbers down with just a couple water changes.

My nitrates are at 160 ..

it’s been up for about 8 months
2 clowns
1 coral beauty
1 blue regal I think it’s called. ( dory fish)
I buy my water from the fish store .
I also buy my rodi water and have it set up with my ato

 

[dball711]

That seems really high for nitrates, curious what test kits you’re trying and whether or not you may have taken your water into a store for a nitrate test. How often do you do water changes much any change? My guess is that you need more water changes to be appropriate to what you’re feeding because all those nitrates are coming from somewhere.

Also FWIW, a coral beauty and regal tang are not appropriate for such a small tank.

 

[civics14]

My nitrates are at 160 ..

it’s been up for about 8 months
2 clowns
1 coral beauty
1 blue regal I think it’s called. ( dory fish)
I buy my water from the fish store .
I also buy my rodi water and have it set up with my ato

That coral beauty and regal tang should not be housed in a tank that small.

What do you do for nutrient export? Water changes (how often)? Any Skimmer?

 

[lmm1967]

so in theory - a 50% water change will get you down to 80 - and then as long as they don't climb too fast - doing another 50% water change should get you down to roughly 40. While still high - this gets you to a more manageable state. It won't work out perfect this way but with only a 20 gallon tank - that is how I would start. I would do this (a 50% water change) at least 3 times - leaving 4 or 5 days between water changes.

Are you running a skimmer of any kind?

 

[Jsantana822]

That seems really high for nitrates, curious what test kits you’re trying and whether or not you may have taken your water into a store for a nitrate test. How often do you do water changes much any change? My guess is that you need more water changes to be appropriate to what you’re feeding because all those nitrates are coming from somewhere.

Also FWIW, a coral beauty and regal tang are not appropriate for such a small tank.

Yes I am taking the water into the store. I just got my own Red Sea test kit to start doing it on my own.

yes I’m aware the fish will outgrow this tank and my lfs told me to keep them for the time being untilI upgrade to a bigger tank that it will take years is what I was told

 

[Jsantana822]

That coral beauty and regal tang should not be housed in a tank that small.

What do you do for nutrient export? Water changes (how often)? Any Skimmer?

I do have a protein skimmer , I just started doing water changes as I was told wrong by someone and hadn’t done a water change for months . I’m starting to do them weekly now

 

[Jsantana822]

so in theory - a 50% water change will get you down to 80 - and then as long as they don't climb too fast - doing another 50% water change should get you down to roughly 40. While still high - this gets you to a more manageable state. It won't work out perfect this way but with only a 20 gallon tank - that is how I would start. I would do this (a 50% water change) at least 3 times - leaving 4 or 5 days between water changes.

Are you running a skimmer of any kind?

I’ll give this a try . Yes I am running a protein skimmer

 

[civics14]

I do have a protein skimmer , I just started doing water changes as I was told wrong by someone and hadn’t done a water change for months . I’m starting to do them weekly now

Yes I am taking the water into the store. I just got my own Red Sea test kit to start doing it on my own.

yes I’m aware the fish will outgrow this tank and my lfs told me to keep them for the time being untilI upgrade to a bigger tank that it will take years is what I was told

I hate when fish stores give that advice, it's so frustrating cause it just creates a problem in the long run. Sorry you had to go through this.

I would take @lmm1967 advice and do the 50% water change. Just keep those large volume water changes spaced out some so the change isn't too drastic too fast.

Have you thought of investing in a RO/DI unit? It would save you some time and money in the long run going back and forth between the LFS.

 

[Jsantana822]

I

I hate when fish stores give that advice, it's so frustrating cause it just creates a problem in the long run. Sorry you had to go through this.

I would take @lmm1967 advice and do the 50% water change. Just keep those large volume water changes spaced out some so the change isn't too drastic too fast.

Have you thought of investing in a RO/DI unit? It would save you some time and money in the long run going back and forth between the LFS.

ive been looking into it but it’s very confusing all the different models they sell. Specifically on brs so many gauges and monitors . Not sure which one to get . Can you recommend any?

 

[lmm1967]

Start with something like this. https://www.marinedepot.com/marine-depot-kleanwater-4-stage-economy-ro-di-system-100-gpd

That will get you water for your system. You can build on to it from there if the need arises.

 

[Jsantana822]

Start with something like this. https://www.marinedepot.com/marine-depot-kleanwater-4-stage-economy-ro-di-system-100-gpd

That will get you water for your system. You can build on to it from there if the need arises.

How do people usually store the water ? Or do you just make what you will use ?

so just to clear it up the chaeto reactor is not good for my setup?

 

[civics14]

They're all pretty much the same with canisters that hold filter media cartridges. I highly recommend the ones with the built in in-line TDS meter.

Re: Gauges - I'm assuming your'e talking about the water pressure gauge? All the homes I been in have had the water pressure below 40PSI at the faucet and I didn't want to risk turning up the pressure at the valve due to risk or damage. I have a booster pump that puts my pressure at my RO/DI unit at 80 PSI for my 150GPD unit (I hate waiting).

Just have to determine the GPD you are looking to get. However, if you want to get the higher GPD, you're going to probably need to a booster pump to actually hit that much volume.

Storing water, I really don't need to since I can produce water pretty fairly quickly with my set up. But I pump it into a Brute container that is on wheels with a float valve that cuts off water when its full.

 

[lmm1967]

How do people usually store the water ? Or do you just make what you will use ?

so just to clear it up the chaeto reactor is not good for my setup?

You don't need that much water at a time - do you have space to store a Brute Trashcan for RO/DI water storage? A 32 gallon brute should last you a few weeks I would imagine.

I would worry about getting your system stable before trying to throw more equipment in the mix

 

[ActiveAngel]

Lots of great advice that I’m just seconding here! All the guys above are on the money.

I agree; do a few 50% water changes. I like to just wait 48 hours (but 4-5 days in between i support) between these big changes when fixing past clients and friends tanks. But also make sure that you’re pre-Warming your new saltwater to minimize the temperature swing during the water change.

RODI units are great! And I also use a single 32 gallon brute can for my combined 150g, 35g, and 20g reefs, plus the acidic plants in my small greenhouse. To answer your question on storing water; I like to keep the 32g can at least half full at any time to solve any surprises.

Unfortunately, those two fish didn’t belong in that tank, especially dory. Blue tangs should have a minimum 6’ long 180g... and I wouldn’t put small one in even a 75g unless I had a concrete plan to get an appropriate tank within year. I’ve seen small fish quadruple in size in this time frame. While nitrates may have been a strong contributing factor, stress from insuffient room to swim, small-tank temperature swings, and low oxygen availability may have also contributed.While the skimmer will help a lot with oxygen, we must remember the very small surface area we’re dealing with.

Definitely keep your protein skimmer. That said; I’ve yet to see any nano-skimmer perform at even 10% of what I would expect from a comparably sized conventional in-sump skimmer. Keep that in mind before you put fish in there that have high bioloads.

How did the nitrates get so high? Most likely, this usually means there has been over feeding. And personally, I don’t like feeding corals often in Nano tanks. Just because nutrient export is so much more difficult.

 

[Jsantana822]

Lots of great advice that I’m just seconding here! All the guys above are on the money.

I agree; do a few 50% water changes. I like to just wait 48 hours (but 4-5 days in between i support) between these big changes when fixing past clients and friends tanks. But also make sure that you’re pre-Warming your new saltwater to minimize the temperature swing during the water change.

RODI units are great! And I also use a single 32 gallon brute can for my combined 150g, 35g, and 20g reefs, plus the acidic plants in my small greenhouse. To answer your question on storing water; I like to keep the 32g can at least half full at any time to solve any surprises.

Unfortunately, those two fish didn’t belong in that tank, especially dory. Blue tangs should have a minimum 6’ long 180g... and I wouldn’t put small one in even a 75g unless I had a concrete plan to get an appropriate tank within year. I’ve seen small fish quadruple in size in this time frame. While nitrates may have been a strong contributing factor, stress from insuffient room to swim, small-tank temperature swings, and low oxygen availability may have also contributed.While the skimmer will help a lot with oxygen, we must remember the very small surface area we’re dealing with.

Definitely keep your protein skimmer. That said; I’ve yet to see any nano-skimmer perform at even 10% of what I would expect from a comparably sized conventional in-sump skimmer. Keep that in mind before you put fish in there that have high bioloads.

How did the nitrates get so high? Most likely, this usually means there has been over feeding. And personally, I don’t like feeding corals often in Nano tanks. Just because nutrient export is so much more difficult.

I can definitely admit to over feeding . Never done this before so didn’t know the adequate amount to feed. Also I do feed my corals phytoplankton and sometimes reef roids. I’m getting all my info from YouTube.
When I first started my tank a few months ago I kept taking the water to my lfs and they kept telling me everything was perfect . No issues . They even praised me for being the first to have such a successful tank so fast. So I was like ok cool. But now everything is going south and I’m doing nothing differently than when I started.
I already did the 50% water change on Thursday so I’ll wait until the week to do another. I was told my someone at Nemo aquarium to throw is some prime . So I put some in after the water change.

Even though this tank isn’t doing so well I still have found this hobby exciting and I won’t be giving up on it. I do plan to upgrade the tank I’m looking into a 120g now but just waiting for the right deal. If I don’t get one on time I will either give the dory away or give him back to the fish store .
Thank you guys for your help I hope I can fix this tank soon and finally get these corals and fish happy.

 

[ActiveAngel]

Well you’re on the right track. YouTube has some good videos! And Reef roids and phyto are good quality food.

Prime is just a water conditioner. It shouldn’t hurt to add a little bit, especially if your fish are stressed.

Sounds like the LFS was stroking your ego, maybe to get a sale, or maybe it was a simple miscommunication. Success in this hobby isn’t something that can be measured quickly; it is measured through long term stable testing. Good job not getting carried away... it’s just unfortunate because if things go south at all, it leaves you confused. It’s not you; keep learning and growing. Practice testing your own water too, so you don’t rely on the LFS testing.

As for testing water; be wary of anybody that describes parameters as “perfect”, “good”, or any other adjective... in the same way that you would be suspicious of a car salesman saying that the price of a car is “perfect” so you should buy it. Water parameters are measured by numbers, not adjectives. And numbers are important; $100k could mean cheap in one context (like buying a ferrari), but expensive in another context (like buying a Toyota Corolla).

As for Dory; I don’t know if any size Blue Tang is good for a 20g. That fish just doesn’t belong in a tank so small. If you had a 120g, then id support a small blue tang, but only if you had that plan to get a 180g+ within the next year. Otherwise the 120g would just be too small. It’s a myth that fish in a small tank will stay small; they won’t. They grow just as big and quickly, if they don’t die first.

 

[JPH]

So much good stuff in this thread.