I need help with power failure setup.

jamos5790

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Ok I have a55 gallon with a20 gallonsump. Right now if I simulate a power failure it would overflow but if I take any more water out of the sump I get mad micro bubbles cause return is to low. Could I just add a one way valve inline with the return pump, have any of y'all tried that?
 
You mean a check valve?

A lot of people use them, but they can potentially clog and fail.
 
Your intake/return system is not set up correctly if your sump overflows in a power outage. Do you have a siphon break on your return line? Is your tank reef ready, or do you have a hang on type overflow?
 
Ok tank is rr. On the return I have loc line but they don't seem long enough to bend upward and drill siphon break into them.
 
On rr tanks, a lot of the time, the siphon break Is drilled on the elbow that the loc line screws into.
 
On rr tanks, a lot of the time, the siphon break Is drilled on the elbow that the loc line screws into.

+1...and they clog with algae, or at least mine do
 
Sewer Urchin;790015 wrote: +1...and they clog with algae, or at least mine do


Yep! Since I have added the frag tank, I don't have to turn off the 93 any more for a water change, but I still keep it free of algae incase of power loss.
 
A working siphon break should take care of your issues. A draindown test should be part of any initial reef setup. Your sump should be able to handle any/all draindown if you lose power. If a siphon break does not take care of the issue, then I'd make sure your overflow is sealed correctly or get a larger sump, 'cause your present one is not large enough, although a 20 gallon sump should service a 55 tank, I would think.
 
Hey man,
If you can, try posting some pics. It might help and certainly won't hurt.

In the ancient past I used a 20L for a sump on a 55, it was a little tight-but it worked!
 
here is a few pics of setup. Now sump pics are old before i bought it but pretty much the same except has stuff in fuge part.
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Looks to me like your return line is too low, so you are back siphoning more than you should. I'd add a couple links of loc line and have the eductor just below the surface, so it can suck air if the pump stops.

Also, your sump intake and skimmer sections are too high. They should be 3-4 inches or so lower than what they are. Your sump is about 75% full when it operates. Most sumps should be no more than 50% full when operating. I'd redo your sump to have a lower water level in the intake and sump section.

I see now why you are having problems. Take care of the return and sump issues and you should be fine. Or buy a larger sump. Professionally made sumps are never that full when operating.
 
Yeah I'm trying to figure out what the best solution is. Can you get more loc line sections at Lowes?
 
If it was me , I'd worry that the check valve would fail. A lot of time there's all sort of tube worms, snail shells and other "crude" that can build up in the the pipe. Combine that with the reef tanks ability to know exactly when to fail at the worst possible moment could lead to a big mess.

My tank only misbehaves when visitors are on the way, walking out the door or if I'm not home to catch it. If I'm just kicking back and watching it works like a charm every time!

Edit: I don't think that Lowes ( and I know Home Depot does not) has it. I'd check with your local LFS. Where are you out of?
 
I never had a problem with mine as i installed a clear check right above a ball valve on the top of my pump. The check valve is the easiest way to fix it and with a clear one u will be able to catch any problem. Let me know if you want a pic of my setup.
 
I was trying to think of who is good down that way... I pretty much have to mail order or drive 2 hrs to pick up anything.
 
A check valve would help, as long as it seals 100% and doesn't fail, but the return line is still too low and the sump water level is too high.
 
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