Ich help.

ares;255901 wrote: meth blue is a form of copper treatment I think.

hyposalinity is a treatment because it reduces the osmotic stress on the fish. we keep our salinity high for the other things in the tank, mainly corals inverts, bacteria, if not for that, we might all keep our salinity around 10 instead of 25. I know FO guys do run around 19 for this reason. so doing them in conjunction might not be such a bad move.

formulin is also a more recent/popular treatment, no idea if copper and formulin is advisable though. formulin may not be a tank killer as far as future use like copper meds are, dont quote me on that either. its newer as treatments go.

UV helps too if you have one


Meth blue is not copper...

Formalin is not newer then copper, to my knowledge, and has been around for a long while in the fish industry. It can be used with copper, but it is over kill IMHO.

UV really has not been proven to do anything. In theory it should work but in practice, none of us that have studied ich can get it to work! (And there have been alot of smart people trying to get it to work and test out.)

My advice is a Formalin and meth blue SALTwater dip for 45 min followed by a QT tank that is SLOWLY (over 10 days) dropped to hyposalinity (1.009 - 1.010) USING A REFRACTOMETER for a month. If you do not have a refractometer, do not even try to do hypo.
 
no joke. my old hydrometer was like .004 off. So I thought I was keeping fish at 1.023, and raised to 1.026 after reading some on here, little did I know I raised it to 1.030...not too serious, but my fish were not too happy. I'm using a hydrometer to hypothetically monitor a tank I'm setting up (Making sure it stays rather steady), but I think the refractometer was one of my better reef investments, and my fish agree.
 
Most hydrometers are calibrated at 60 degrees. you will get a .001 increase for every 10 degrees over the calibration point. The reverse is also true.

Just keep in mind that the hydrometer should read 1.024 if you want to set your specific gravity at 1.026 at 80 degrees.

Have you checked for voltage? I added a grounding probe to my new tank after dealing with ich on my 8 year old sailfin for about a month. It went away after 3 days.

Jonathan
 
I have had mutliple salt water tanks and fish for several years and never had ich until two weeks ago when I removed all my live rock and scrubbed them for a green slime problem I have had which was growing. Then my most favorite fish, a white cheek surgeonfish, got it. I went to Aquarium Showcase and they recommended Kick-Ich. It allows you to treat the fish with everything in the tank, including lots of coral and other fish. It is advertised as coral reef safe and costs $50 to treat a 150 gallon tank. It takes 5 full treatments over a two week period with adding of chemical every 4 days. It really worked for me. I soon saw my pair of Regal tangs had also broke out with it next, but then by the third treatment the ich is gone, fish are eating heartily and doing ok, even though it is critical I continue the treatment for remainder of two weeks. I also started soaking my fish food with garlic and Metronidazole (from SeaChem) for an hour before I feed them. This is a medication for anaerobic bacterial disease and the garlic helps and they really love it. When treating, you cant use a protein skimmer and then you need water changes afterward.

Best of luck in treating your problem.
 
Well the most stressfull part for my fish is over (the dip) but now the waiting begins (wich is the most stressfull part for me) Unfortunaly i had to cut hte dip short, in total it lasted about 25 minutes, due to the fish going belly up and not moving at all. But once i put him back in the hospital tank he started swiming again. Could there be a greater risk of the ich coming back with the dip being this short? Ill keep my fingers crossed.
 
Is it normal for the fish to act lazy/retarded and get stuck on the powerhead intake? Its swimin around but it cant fight the intake flow....im vary nervouse.
 
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