Ick treatment

Soak the food in Garlic guard, focus, and metro. Keep the lighs off if you can to reduce stress on the fish.
 
on the home page, you'll see "tags"............about 1/2 way down click on "ich".......
 
I just lost my blue spotted jawfish today to ich... Water parameters good, tried the garlic soaked food, freshwater dips... nothing worked.. all of other fish fine... I guess he was just stressed... not sure why ... so sad :(
 
I feel ya, none of my fish have died yet but my powder blue tang is looking really bad. he's got white dots all over him right now. At first it was only a few than it went away for a few days than it came back hard. I'm still feed them frozen food soaked in garlic but it doesn't seem like its working at this moment. I have about 10 fish in my tank and 5 of them are tangs and every tang I have seem to have caught the ick. I dunno who is more stressed out. my fish or me.:crying:
 
I think catching the fish with a net and moving it from one tank to another like that will also stress it out. The only thing I'm doing is just feeding them dry food with garlic and frozen food soaked and garlic and hope for the best. So far it seems like all my fish are eating pretty while except for my powder blue tang, he eats kinda slow, but than again he's been like that since I've gotten him. which is only about a month though.
 
Powder Blue Tangs are VERY prone to ich. When they get stressed out it will cover them fast. Any major water parameter fluctuations. As the fish feels at home it should get better IME. The more you mess the worse it will get.

Good luck to you.


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I haven't touch my water or done anything to it in a few weeks other than WC, I'm also about to set up my calcium reactor in the next day or two after I can find me a PH controller. Setting up a calcium reactor shouldn't affect the fish in any way correct?
 
Since I installed a UV sterilizer in my tank it has really helped to control ICH. I still think the best way to prevent and avoid this problem is quarantine. I battled ich for almost two years and didn't get the idea. The process to get rid of this disease is very long and sometimes we think we have it beat but it comes right back due to its reproductive cycle, it changes from it's cyst form (what we see on our fish) and releases into our systems.

Even when I originally installed the UV, thanks to the recommendation of some folks on this site, I had to regulate the proper water flow to ensure I was killing the ich. In the end I believe that a host of different factors came into place to get rid of the disease. I haven't seen any more ich for about 9 mos. I have set up a quarantine tank also and every new inhabitant of my reef must spend some time in isolation before joining the rest of the crew :up:.

Good luck and I hope this helps.
 
I've heard that a UV will help as well, but wouldn't that also kill the beneficial bacteria in your tank as well? From what I understand that a UV will do that but not even to heard anything life stock in your tank. Any comments?
 
Hnguyen;559677 wrote: I think catching the fish with a net and moving it from one tank to another like that will also stress it out. The only thing I'm doing is just feeding them dry food with garlic and frozen food soaked and garlic and hope for the best. So far it seems like all my fish are eating pretty while except for my powder blue tang, he eats kinda slow, but than again he's been like that since I've gotten him. which is only about a month though.

Get a UV.... It will work...
 
Dvara78;557982 wrote: Soak the food in Garlic guard, focus, and metro.

+1 - although i do not adjust my photo period

Hnguyen;559677 wrote: I think catching the fish with a net and moving it from one tank to another like that will also stress it out. The only thing I'm doing is just feeding them dry food with garlic and frozen food soaked and garlic and hope for the best. So far it seems like all my fish are eating pretty while except for my powder blue tang, he eats kinda slow, but than again he's been like that since I've gotten him. which is only about a month though.

as long as they are eating I wouldnt do anything drastic....supplements and vitamins are key as well.

mikesommers;559680 wrote: Powder Blue Tangs are VERY prone to ich. When they get stressed out it will cover them fast. Any major water parameter fluctuations. As the fish feels at home it should get better IME. The more you mess the worse it will get.

Good luck to you.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

+1

Hnguyen;559682 wrote: I haven't touch my water or done anything to it in a few weeks other than WC, I'm also about to set up my calcium reactor in the next day or two after I can find me a PH controller. Setting up a calcium reactor shouldn't affect the fish in any way correct?

No, a calcium reactor should have any effect on your fish - just make sure your PH stays stable

Corallus caninus;559686 wrote: Since I installed a UV sterilizer in my tank it has really helped to control ICH. I still think the best way to prevent and avoid this problem is quarantine. I battled ich for almost two years and didn't get the idea. The process to get rid of this disease is very long and sometimes we think we have it beat but it comes right back due to its reproductive cycle, it changes from it's cyst form (what we see on our fish) and releases into our systems.

Even when I originally installed the UV, thanks to the recommendation of some folks on this site, I had to regulate the proper water flow to ensure I was killing the ich. In the end I believe that a host of different factors came into place to get rid of the disease. I haven't seen any more ich for about 9 mos. I have set up a quarantine tank also and every new inhabitant of my reef must spend some time in isolation before joining the rest of the crew :up:.

Good luck and I hope this helps.

QT is key but once its there, its there regardless of QT..I know my system has it, I just make sure my guys are fat and happy - well fed and when I see a spot or two - I break out the Metro & Focus for a good food soak. I havent lost a fish to ich yet....*knocks on wood*

Hnguyen;559711 wrote: I've heard that a UV will help as well, but wouldn't that also kill the beneficial bacteria in your tank as well? From what I understand that a UV will do that but not even to heard anything life stock in your tank. Any comments?

grouper;559713 wrote: Get a UV.... It will work...

Just make sure you get a properly sized UV, i used an 18w on my 210 for a long time before I realized it was just wasting power. I now have a 114 w and can adjust the flow depending on my needs.

yes, UV does not discriminate - it will kill anything that passes thru it depending on the flow rate....mostly pods is what will get fried. I run mine thru one of two returns so at least some pods have a fighting chance to make it back up to the DT.
 
The LFS I go to has a used UV laying around that he's willing to let me borrow to use fight off my ick. I was thinking about hooking it up to a maxi jet 1200 and just have it run like in my sump. I hope it works
 
Hnguyen;559820 wrote: The LFS I go to has a used UV laying around that he's willing to let me borrow to use fight off my ick. I was thinking about hooking it up to a maxi jet 1200 and just have it run like in my sump. I hope it works

what size UV and what size tank and how old is the bulb?
 
I think its like a 9 or 18 watt UV. As for age I don't really know, and my tank is a 120 with 30 sump.
 
**** Gary... :lol2:Cover the basis why don't you...


gnashty;559796 wrote: +1 - although i do not adjust my photo period



as long as they are eating I wouldnt do anything drastic....supplements and vitamins are key as well.



+1



No, a calcium reactor should have any effect on your fish - just make sure your PH stays stable



QT is key but once its there, its there regardless of QT..I know my system has it, I just make sure my guys are fat and happy - well fed and when I see a spot or two - I break out the Metro & Focus for a good food soak. I havent lost a fish to ich yet....*knocks on wood*





Just make sure you get a properly sized UV, i used an 18w on my 210 for a long time before I realized it was just wasting power. I now have a 114 w and can adjust the flow depending on my needs.

yes, UV does not discriminate - it will kill anything that passes thru it depending on the flow rate....mostly pods is what will get fried. I run mine thru one of two returns so at least some pods have a fighting chance to make it back up to the DT.
 
Hnguyen;559711 wrote: I've heard that a UV will help as well, but wouldn't that also kill the beneficial bacteria in your tank as well? From what I understand that a UV will do that but not even to heard anything life stock in your tank. Any comments?

The organism must pass through the UV in order to be killed. 99% of your beneficial bacteria (or more) lives on your live rock, or in the different strata of your sand. You could run 10 UVs on your tank and not have to worry about killing those bacteria.
 
Hnguyen;559845 wrote: I think its like a 9 or 18 watt UV. As for age I don't really know, and my tank is a 120 with 30 sump.

I am not the UV expert here (or anywhere really..lol) but not sure a 9w would do much of anything on a tank that large except waste electricity. I use my UV as a water clarifier and dont depend in it much to kill ich

cr500_af;559858 wrote: The organism must pass through the UV in order to be killed. 99% of your beneficial bacteria (or more) lives on your live rock, or in the different strata of your sand. You could run 10 UVs on your tank and not have to worry about killing those bacteria.

Great point barry
 
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