iwaki external pump plumbing

kirkwood

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Anyone have pics to share? I just picked up an rx40 Japanese motor model and the output line is set at like a 45 degree angle. I'm wondering how you plumb that to get it to go straight up. I'm an plumbing novice so feel free to elaborate your explanation.
 
You actually can make the output straight up by just removing the volute screws and place it the way you need it, I have read that it won't decrease that much the flow of the pump. What it will decrease will be pressure head and how many elbows or "t" you install on your plumbing design. And I guess you got the pump that is designed for pressure instead of flow only.
 
joseayes;825775 wrote: You actually can make the output straight up by just removing the volute screws and place it the way you need it, I have read that it won't decrease that much the flow of the pump. What it will decrease will be pressure head and how many elbows or "t" you install on your plumbing design. And I guess you got the pump that is designed for pressure instead of flow only.

I believe the american version is designed for pressure while the Japanese version is designed for flow (I could be wrong). I know that the Japanese version is preferable for aquarium use.

If anyone has done what Jose mentions please post pics.
 
Some one moved your it sounds like . Every pump I have seen had the discharge port straight up. Makes no difference just back the bolts out and rotate it.
 
Agreed I own 2 both were straight. One is still in use and the other is just sitting with a broken impeller. Love the pump it does a great job. I can take pictures but its truly nothing I'm proud. Works perfect for me though LMK if you want some pics.
 
Thanks. I'm looking for any plumbing pics for external pumps feeding manifolds, etc will help as im trying to get ideas. My plan is to run a manifold with 3 or 4 outs. 1 for gfo, 1 for carbon, and possibly one for future reactor. I only expect the reactors to use about 50gph of flow each and the return is rated at 1200 gph at 4ft of head. So I expect that I will have to throttle back the flow on the return line into the 600-800gph range as I have single overflow with single return line and downpipe. I am wondering if with the remaining flow on the pump if I could run a line off the manifold that would feed my skimmer. I am currently running an aquac-ev 180 skimmer with a sicci syncra pump rated for about 750 gph. I want to run a line from the manifold into some kind of y bracket with the sicci pump to increase the flow rate to the Skimmer into the 900gph range. I know it would be much easier just to go buy a mag 9 but I don't want to spend the money. I have never seen someone plumb something like this and am wondering if it is possible.
 
Kirkwood;826523 wrote: Thanks. I'm looking for any plumbing pics for external pumps feeding manifolds, etc will help as im trying to get ideas. My plan is to run a manifold with 3 or 4 outs. 1 for gfo, 1 for carbon, and possibly one for future reactor. I only expect the reactors to use about 50gph of flow each and the return is rated at 1200 gph at 4ft of head. So I expect that I will have to throttle back the flow on the return line into the 600-800gph range as I have single overflow with single return line and downpipe. I am wondering if with the remaining flow on the pump if I could run a line off the manifold that would feed my skimmer. I am currently running an aquac-ev 180 skimmer with a sicci syncra pump rated for about 750 gph. I want to run a line from the manifold into some kind of y bracket with the sicci pump to increase the flow rate to the Skimmer into the 900gph range. I know it would be much easier just to go buy a mag 9 but I don't want to spend the money. I have never seen someone plumb something like this and am wondering if it is possible.

anyone?
 
You got me thinking so i pulled the owners manual. I think you are right on the money with your current pump. The manufacturer says a decrease in performance happens after 800 gph. See below... In my experience only the spray injector skimmers have a sweet spot that works best, too much is just as bad as too little. Hope this helps

"""""One of the advantages of buying an AquaC EV Series skimmer is that you have several
different pump options to choose from. You can use an external or submersible pump, AquaC, Inc. © 2005 All rights reserved. Got questions? Send them to mailto:info@proteinskimmer.com">info@proteinskimmer.com</a>
depending on your application. In our tests, the EV-180 performs best when powered
by a pressure-rated pump capable of producing 700-800 GPH unrestricted. Due to the
pressure that the spray injector places on the pump, the true flow through the skimmer
will be quite a bit less than the unrestricted rating.
As of our last printing, the Danner Supreme Mag Drive 7 is our favorite pump on the
EV-180 skimmer. Other submersible pumps with a similar flow curve should produce
comparable results to the Mag 7. The Iwaki 30 RLT is our favorite external pump on
the EV-180 skimmer. If you use an external pump, we recommend that you add a gate
valve to the pump&#8217;s output. This will help you fine-tune the flow to the skimmer.
Some of our customers report increased performance when running a water pump that
is rated higher than what we recommend. For example, a Mag 9.5 can &#8220;overdrive&#8221; the
EV-180 and produce even better results. If you choose to use a larger water pump,
please be aware that it is very easy to overdrive the skimmer in such a way that the
performance will actually suffer! The EV-180 is designed to handle a certain amount of
water flow, and it is possible to choke off the spray injector, which will result in a
decrease in performance. If you use a larger water pump, be sure and add a gate
valve to the pump&#8217;s output so that you can fine-tune the flow to the skimmer. At
no time should the water level inside the skimmer be any higher than the the top of the
dark gray box. """"
 
Thanks Daryl. Yeah I know what your saying about the manufacturer's recommendation. My problem is that I can only produce a very thick skimmate, and although I like to skim on the thick side, I would like it to be a little bit wetter. My Sicci pump is about 4-5 years old so I was thinking it is possible that although it is rated at 750gph that perhaps it is operating well below that level. I'm just wondering if a line off the iwaki manifold with a gate valve to control exact flow could be a possible modification.

I'm still trying to wrap my head around how I want to install/plumb the iwaki. The pics in Acroholics new buildthread were very helpful and pretty much lay out what I need to do. My major problem/challenge/hurdle is that my system is up and running and I need to DRILL THE SUMP!! LOL. I still don't know if I have enough room to just drain the sump and drill it in the stand where it currently sits or if I will have to complete pull it out. Given the fact that there is zero margin for error, I very well may need to pull it out, which creates a lot more work and mess.
 
Gotcha, then I would try using a y pvc connector in between the pump and the skimmer. I would also suggest one of these
a> on the return side of the pump before the manifold.  Make sure it is this style no metal with unions.  This will keep anything from flooding your sump through the pump return.  I would recommend pulling that sump to drill, unless you can get the drill in there and accurately control it.  I think that idea of using a 5 gallon bucket or a plastic as temporary sump is a good idea.  Maybe you could run some flex pipe from your existing plumbing to temporary sump beside your stand.
 
My Iwaki pumps cannot be reconfigured with the output straight up. I have MD20RLXT and MD40RLXT pumps. The only difference between the Japanese and American pumps are the motors. The wet parts of both are identical. Pumps with an X are high flow and pumps without the X are high pressure.

From the sounds of your skimmer setup, you don't want the Iwaki to feed a Venturi and add more bubbles, you just want to increase the water flow through the skimmer, right? If so, your plan to split the output should work just fine. I would install a ball valve on both output legs to give the most adjustment flexibility.

I have used them for over 15 years and have the following suggestions for you:

1) place a thick, rubber mouse pad or similar under the pump to reduce noise transfer
2) plumb the input and output with true union ball valves, like these so you can clean and maintain your pump without draining your system. http://www.lowes.com/pd_209644-34146-P200U-40+1%22_4294935656+5003699+4294821214_4294937087?productId=3138597">http://www.lowes.com/pd_209644-34146-P200U-40+1%22_4294935656+5003699+4294821214_4294937087?productId=3138597</a>
3) don't build your system to rely on a check valve to prevent a flood as they get dirty and will fail when you need it
4) I use a small section (about a foot) of flex PVC on the output to make lining up the plumbing less critical.
 
Thanks Schwaggs. I like the idea for the flex PVC. I was thinking today about the pain of trying to matchup everything exact. With my current pump I have never had an issue with back siphoning and sump overflow so I'm thinking that shouldn't change with the iwaki right? In that case I wouldn't need the check switch even though it may be a good idea to install anyway.

On my 120 I have a single 1inch return and a single 2inch downpipe. So with that configuration I'll only be able to push like 600-700 gph? If that's the case I will have the leeway to divert some flow to carbon, gfo, and the skimmer. Hoping this also helps the system run cooler in summer.

By getting rid of the submerged pump I am thinking about putting some matrix in the return portion of my sump. I wonder if that is doable and a good idea?

Schwaggs;827105 wrote: My Iwaki pumps cannot be reconfigured with the output straight up. I have MD20RLXT and MD40RLXT pumps. The only difference between the Japanese and American pumps are the motors. The wet parts of both are identical. Pumps with an X are high flow and pumps without the X are high pressure.

From the sounds of your skimmer setup, you don't want the Iwaki to feed a Venturi and add more bubbles, you just want to increase the water flow through the skimmer, right? If so, your plan to split the output should work just fine. I would install a ball valve on both output legs to give the most adjustment flexibility.

I have used them for over 15 years and have the following suggestions for you:

1) place a thick, rubber mouse pad or similar under the pump to reduce noise transfer
2) plumb the input and output with true union ball valves, like these so you can clean and maintain your pump without draining your system. http://www.lowes.com/pd_209644-34146-P200U-40+1%22_4294935656+5003699+4294821214_4294937087?productId=3138597">http://www.lowes.com/pd_209644-34146-P200U-40+1%22_4294935656+5003699+4294821214_4294937087?productId=3138597</a>
3) don't build your system to rely on a check valve to prevent a flood as they get dirty and will fail when you need it
4) I use a small section (about a foot) of flex PVC on the output to make lining up the plumbing less critical.[/QUOTE]
 
Schwaggs;827105 wrote: My Iwaki pumps cannot be reconfigured with the output straight up. I have MD20RLXT and MD40RLXT pumps. The only difference between the Japanese and American pumps are the motors. The wet parts of both are identical. Pumps with an X are high flow and pumps without the X are high pressure.

From the sounds of your skimmer setup, you don't want the Iwaki to feed a Venturi and add more bubbles, you just want to increase the water flow through the skimmer, right? If so, your plan to split the output should work just fine. I would install a ball valve on both output legs to give the most adjustment flexibility.

I have used them for over 15 years and have the following suggestions for you:

1) place a thick, rubber mouse pad or similar under the pump to reduce noise transfer
2) plumb the input and output with true union ball valves, like these so you can clean and maintain your pump without draining your system. http://www.lowes.com/pd_209644-34146-P200U-40+1%22_4294935656+5003699+4294821214_4294937087?productId=3138597">http://www.lowes.com/pd_209644-34146-P200U-40+1%22_4294935656+5003699+4294821214_4294937087?productId=3138597</a>
3) don't build your system to rely on a check valve to prevent a flood as they get dirty and will fail when you need it
4) I use a small section (about a foot) of flex PVC on the output to make lining up the plumbing less critical.[/QUOTE]
I had forgotten that . Those I believe are the only two models configured that way.
 
Does anyone have pics of an Iwaki plumbed? Is flex PVC off the pump output the only way?
 
couldn't you use a female slip/thread coupler, piece of pipe, then a 45 degree slip/slip coupler? That would give you a straight run up. That's what I did to run it up to the refugium. then you can add your union and gate/ball valve.
 
darylb72;827396 wrote: couldn't you use a female slip/thread coupler, piece of pipe, then a 45 degree slip/slip coupler? That would give you a straight run up. That's what I did to run it up to the refugium. then you can add your union and gate/ball valve.

that is what I needed to hear. As a plumbing novice I don't know the names of the pieces. Do you have pictures from when you had it plumbed?
 
Sorry I never took any. These are standard pieces you can buy at home depot or lowes. Just take the pump with you to the store and rough it out in the store. Couple tips I can give you are: use teflon pipe thread tape on anything you screw together, get a good pvc pipe cleaner and glue. They should have a clear version for both. Take your time and rough out the plumbing with no glue first, then when you are comfortable with your work, clean and glue the pieces together. Also, there is a pvc cutting tool that uses a ratchet action to easily cut the pvc pipes, buy it you'll thank me later. I believe they about $12-$20. Also, don't sweat buying extra pieces, both stores will gladly accept returns. Hope this helps you out.
 
I contacted iwaki support today about recommended plumbing and they said to use flexible hose. They said this would reduce noise. I stopped by Lowes today and I found a lot of options. If I go with flex hose hen I won't need and unions. This will help me save on space if I go that route.
 
Dont know if you saw
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alt="" /> my pics of my set up but I tought I would share, hope it helps, I never did plumbing before but never tough it was difficult, the way I did it was to be able to remove any reactor or UV light and still have runing the water cycle, so replacing media with out shutting down the system. I have the pump dedicated only for reactors and uv. Hope it helps
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