Kalk reactor on a RO/DI system

chymos45

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I know that most, if not all, Kalk Reactors are pretty clear to state that they are not designed to be hooked directly to the output of an RO/DI unit due to the high pressure during "no flow" periods. Makes sense.

What would be the harm in installing a needle valve between the RO/DI unit and the Reactor to dial down the flow and take the pressure off the Reactor? This way, I could dial in a steady drip rate to the Reactor and subsequently to the sump.
 
I just fill up a 15 gal brute tub with ro/di and then my reactor to that
 
Both are good examples of typical installations, but I am trying to avoid using a reservoir and yet another plug. I wouldn't imagine there would be and pressure issues by using the needle valve, the drip rate is "infinitely adjustable", and so long as my evap rate exceeds the drip rate, there shouldn't</em> be any overflow problems.
 
I don't know...depending on the ambient room temp (evap)...i would deff be weirery of doing that but that is just me...
 
i would use whichever method reduces the chance of nuking your tank. Using valves, or bypassing manuf suggestions..is one sure way of learning the hard way.. i try to steer clear of those
 
Why not have the reactor hooked up to a reservoir anyway and have the reservoir hooked up to the RO/DI unit and tie it all in to the sump, wouldn't put any pressure on the reactor just the holding container that is directly attached to the reactor... does that make sense
 
Makes complete sense and is typical, but is contrary to what I am trying to accomplish. I would like to avoid the extra reservoir if possible.

Another idea I had was to use a solenoid on a timer instead of the needle valve. This of course would result in sporadic doses of Kalk instead of a constant drip, but would also have the added risk of sticking open and nuking the tank. Yes, I know they typically fail in the closed position (or are at lease supposed to), but sometimes things happen.

The worst thing I could think of with the needle valve is that it would clog and stop the flow. Even this is unlikely since all that would be flowing through it would be water that just ran through the RO/DI.

C'mon, someone tell me why this will not work.
 
au01st;373069 wrote: Same reasons you wouldn't hook an RO/DI system to your sump directly.

I've had this same conversation before on a different thread. Nut-shell version: There would have to be a super-catastrophic event (like a blown seam) for my sump to flood as I have an emergency drain in the side wall of my sump that diverts "extra" water directly out of the house in a very noticable location (so it would be seen). Yes, there is the risk of dropping the salinity, but that risk is also present in other ATO systems.
 
Chymos45;373078 wrote: I've had this same conversation before on a different thread. Nut-shell version: There would have to be a super-catastrophic event (like a blown seam) for my sump to flood as I have an emergency drain in the side wall of my sump that diverts "extra" water directly out of the house in a very noticable location (so it would be seen). Yes, there is the risk of dropping the salinity, but that risk is also present in other ATO systems.

But with a reservoir you have a finite supply of water to overdose and run out your emergency drain, whereas a continuously running RO unit, even at a steady drip rate, as you say, provides an unlimited amount of water to go out the emergency drain, or worse, into your house because you have many other possible leak points in a sump/pump/overflow system than just a blown sump seam or a steady drip rate gone wild.

The safest system, IMO, is what Kirru suggested, and is what I use. A reservoir your RO dumps into, then your ATO running from your sump thru your kalk reactor.

Is one extra plug really that big a deal? What are 17 plugs vs 16?:D
Dave
 
That's why I only have a 5 gallon top off container. If something sticks on, all it does it dump at most 5 gallons into a 100+ gallon system. The S.G. will drop less than a point.

I guess if you're comfortable then you can go for it, but is it worth the risk to save a hole or a few bucks?
 
you do not want to be turning your RO system on and off many times a day. That will kill the membrane. It's best to run the RO system for a couple hrs at a time like filling up a res.
 
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