Kudos to RK2

flyingarmy

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I finally got the RK2 on the 160GAL last night and I just have to say "big time kudos" to Digital Aquatics and the RK2. I had a Octopus 3000 running the 160 but the RK2 makes it look like the first punch card reading super computer. It was simple to program, very intuitive and worked like a charm without a hitch. The Octo 3000 will be monitoring and automating the Finnex very soon but might had to hunker down for another RK2 at some point. That is all...just wanted to sing it's praise!
 
Lol, told you it was simple. I remember when I got mine from Chris and he said "it's so easy a monkey could do it" I was thinking, oh yeah sure. Well, he was right....eh, I hate to admit that, lol. Glad you like it :)
 
glxtrix;231964 wrote: Lol, told you it was simple. I remember when I got mine from Chris and he said "it's so easy a monkey could do it" I was thinking, oh yeah sure. Well, he was right....eh, I hate to admit that, lol. Glad you like it :)


Well this ape had no problems with it at all. Now I just need to get it hooked up to a computer and start logging data. I also need to buy a new PH probe, calibrated the one I was using on the Octo and I think it's not where it should be. I need to calibrate my pen PH tester to check the probe. I'll pick up a Expansion box sometime to run the chiller, no hurry since the temps have dropped.
 
The RK2 rocks- easy to use yet still powerful enough for most tanks.

Mark- you don't need to run that chiller on the RK2- it has it's own built in digital controller. Even if you did, it's going to turn on the chiller, then the chiller's controller will do a 3 minute wait time b/c it just detected that it was "plugged in." Then the chiller would be cutoff in the middle of running. The only way I'd consider doing it would be use the RK2 as a failsafe (set the chiller on the RK2 to come on at 82 degrees, for example), but I'm not convinced that the temp controller on the RK2 is any better or worse than the chiller's.

Another idea (and something I do) is to use one setting for your "chiller" on your controller as a fan, to come on a degree or so below your actuall chiller setpoint, so that you evap some of that heat before the chiller turns on- I've found I use roughly 25% less time on the chiller by doing that.
 
mojo;232001 wrote: The RK2 rocks- easy to use yet still powerful enough for most tanks.

Mark- you don't need to run that chiller on the RK2- it has it's own built in digital controller. Even if you did, it's going to turn on the chiller, then the chiller's controller will do a 3 minute wait time b/c it just detected that it was "plugged in." Then the chiller would be cutoff in the middle of running. The only way I'd consider doing it would be use the RK2 as a failsafe (set the chiller on the RK2 to come on at 82 degrees, for example), but I'm not convinced that the temp controller on the RK2 is any better or worse than the chiller's.

Another idea (and something I do) is to use one setting for your "chiller" on your controller as a fan, to come on a degree or so below your actuall chiller setpoint, so that you evap some of that heat before the chiller turns on- I've found I use roughly 25% less time on the chiller by doing that.


Excellent idea Chris! I already gave the fan on one of the channels, I'll just link the 2 up! Thanks! Looks like another class you could teach!
 
mojo;232001 wrote: Another idea (and something I do) is to use one setting for your "chiller" on your controller as a fan, to come on a degree or so below your actuall chiller setpoint, so that you evap some of that heat before the chiller turns on- I've found I use roughly 25% less time on the chiller by doing that.

Excellent idea!
 
If you are going to connect it to a pc then test it as soon as you can. There is a ground loop problem when the pc is plugged in that drives the ph or temp bonkers. If you have the probem you need to order a ground loop isolator from DA for $25.

I really like mine, but occassionally it will blink the lights for no apparent reason.
 
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